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Hell of a first post.
I prefer the Larue rails for several reasons and price and function are only two. The DD Lite rails will be going on my next rifle.
I have used YHM and MI rails before and they were shit. Out of spec, sharp, shot loose (the YHM after only three mags worth of drills). If I could have back the money I've spent on shit gear trying to see what works for me, I could have a few more high-quality "elitist" rifles in my safe.
DD or Larue for me.
Only hits count......you can not miss fast enough to catch up
I usually refrain from quoting people that exibit jackass behavior but I'm making an exception.
If you choose to be a pole-smoker to people and base it off of your BM and your man hands you might want to rethink your approach. No one gives a **** whether your BM shoots 3/4 MOA at 100 yards or if dick beaters are larger than life.
People who have posted their negative opinions about YHM have been based off of first hand experiences. It's not just Internet fanboys circle-jerking over the latest and greatest. I'd like to know your background and first hand experiences with the other mentioned rail systems.
And next time you choose to insult someone here, try using proper English and sentence structure instead of a rambling run-on sentence that would insult a second grader.
Only hits count......you can not miss fast enough to catch up
I find YHM's rails too thick.
I do, however, like their freefloat tubes very much. A very compelling value. I say that as an owner of 2 x DD rails and 4 x LT rails.
I have a mid-length YHM on a RRA 9mm that I bought in 2006, long before I found this forum. Between M4, Rob_S, and actually shooting this gun; I probably wouldn't have a RRA or a 9mm if I had known then what I know now.
I have no other rails to compare it to, but it is too fat for comfort with my hands. It measures 2.43" across the flats. How does this compare to DD/Larue?
For my taste, the gun is overly muzzle heavy. I don't know if that is from the rail, barrel contour, or railed gas block. Probably all three.
I don't know what you guys consider sharp, but the rail has been vibradined. There is nothing that a machinist would call sharp. Nobody who has shot the gun has been cut in its limited use. However, I can see how my opinion might change if I were a hard user.
The top rail on the tube is 0.004" below the rail on the receiver. I have no idea how close it should be, but that is pretty close for a joint with a couple sets of threads. I thought you weren't supposed to span that gap, so what does this affect?
Dimensionally, it comes up pretty good when checked with a dial caliper and depth micrometer, except for one height. I cannot do a full inspection of all features at home, so I don't know how the rest of the features stack up. Going off of pages 8 and 9 from the link below, I took a few minutes and checked the following dimensions:
0.835 - 0.005 overall width = measured OK
0.367 min rail height to shoulder = measured 0.324
0.617 - 0.010 base width = measured OK
0.206 + 0.008 recoil groove width = measured OK
0.118 + 0.008 recoil groove depth = measured 0.126 to 0.136
0.394 (basic) groove to groove = estimated ok
http://www.quarterbore.com/library/p...l-std-1913.pdf
It is what it is: fat, heavy, and inexpensive. The 0.367 min rail height to shoulder is off by a lot. 0.040 is a mile in the machining world. I would love to have the rails and mounts from the guys that had stuff fall off. I would measure them until I found the problem. With the proper tools, I doubt it would take very long to find the discrepancy.
If the whole theory of 95% of the ARs are good enough for 95% of the owners is true, there are a lot of happy owners out there. This is like Craftsman or Allen brand tools instead of Snap-On. I'm not betting my life on this rifle, so I should be in the 95%, but I wouldn't buy it again if I decided I really wanted a 9mm. As usual, you get what you pay for.
I had a DPMS rifle with an YHM Rail many years ago. I did not know too much about the AR, besides what the US Army teaches. It was OK, for what I used it for, paper shooting and that is it. It did loosen up all of the time. It was a 12" rail so my flip up front sight was useless. It was never zeroed. After my experience with YHM I will never buy another YHM product again. I know more about the AR and I do all of my own builds now. When I build I only use top end products. I am not going to stick by one company because that is the coolest thing according to everyone at the time. I get parts that are time tested and the QC process is the best. I look at the QC process, MPI testing, type of material, life span, and versatility. Yes the prices are a little more. Is the final product that much better? Yes it is. Does it take me much longer to build an AR because I have to save my money to get a quality part? Yes it does. I will stand by every build I have done. As a matter of fact I will only build an AR if the final product is good enough to stake my life on it. By this I mean will I take it into Combat. Last year I was in the Stan and I used one of my uppers. Tested and it passed. I use LaRue Tactical rails and yes they are worth it.
I have 4 M4s and I have 3 LaRue rail and a DD Lite. The only reason that I have a DD Lite is because LaRue does not make a rail with a front sight cut out. Is the DD Lite a good quality rail? Yes it is. Would I swap it with a LT rail when LT starts to make one with a FSP Cut out? HELL YES, I hope you read this Mark.
By the way if an YHM rail cost $100 new 250% more would be $25,000. Check your math.
And yes I understand this is a two year old post.
In no way do I make any money from anyone related to the firearms industry.
"I have never heard anyone say after a firefight that I wish that I had not taken so much ammo.", ME
"Texas can make it without the United States, but the United States can't make it without Texas !", General Sam Houston
delete
Last edited by 6933; 01-25-10 at 12:05. Reason: grammar
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