Best places to save weight without sacrificing reliability

**maximus83** · 09-21-19, 15:45

When assembling a LW rifle, where your goal is to have the unscoped/unloaded weight be anywhere from 5.5-6.25 lbs--besides the common options of barrel, handguard, and buttstock--what are the best places to save additional weight without sacrificing reliability?

I was thinking about this recently when I finished assembling my new rifle, here. Was not trying to build the lightest rifle possible, but it occurred to me after I selected lighter weight barrel, handguard, and buttstock, how many other places could I really have gotten very much weight savings without compromising reliability? Like to hear what others have learned.

Looked at 3 examples of reputable builders who produce super LW rifles: Faxon (4.95 lbs), 2A Armament (5 lbs), and V Seven (4.5 lbs). All save weight in the common 3 areas using lighter barrels/handguards/buttstock.

Then they all seem to trim quite a bit of additional weight using these common strategies:

-Super light receivers that are skeletonized, and some eliminate things like FA controls
-LW/low-mass BCG's
-Many remaining parts such as FH, takedown pins, barrel nut, some user controls like selectors, etc. done in titanium or aluminum

Curious what folks think about using those additional areas to save weight. IMHO, the BCG is a bad place to try and get clever or save weight, it seems very likely to compromise reliability--only place I'd even consider that is game rifles (and I don't have any of those :-) ).

On the LW receivers and all the small parts, I dunno, never tried them.

**GH41** · 09-21-19, 16:33

Like you said.. Barrel, handguard and stock. On this one the BCM original 15" KMR 16" ELW upper is the best bang for the buck. The lower is no lightweight.. A full ambi Mega with a Norgan release. The A5 H2 sends the scale the wrong way but I wouldn't cut corners there. I did splurge on the Scalarworks mount, BOBRO sights and Geissele aluminum sling swivels. Like you see it with RDS, light and sling it weighs 6# 10oz. I didn't feel like adding ti parts offered much juice for the squeeze.

**JediGuy** · 09-21-19, 16:35

The weight difference is minimal between a semi auto and M16 (standard) bolt carrier group, but if I wanted the absolute lightest duty quality gun, I would find a quality semi BCG. The forward assist is a relic, that can go away. But besides that... I think you hit some small parts that can be lightened a bit. The barrel nut will depend on your handguard, so just consider that as part of total weight.

**noonesshowmonkey** · 09-21-19, 18:28

The most meaningful places to take weight off are the barrel profile, the handguard, and to a lesser extent, the furniture.

After that, you're paying a premium for a few oz here and there. It can add up (and fast, if you're careful). But, you may end up throwing tons of money at a half pound or so.

Personally, I wouldn't mess with low mass BCGs, or skelontized receivers. That's just asking for a problem. And, as other users have pointed out, Ti parts are inordinately expensive for the very small weight savings.

The best way to make your rifle lighter, after shaving off unnecessary stuff and having a light weight profile barrel and short, light handguard, is to get stronger and faster and lose some weight off of the operator.

**1168** · 09-21-19, 20:24

Mine’s at 6lbs, 9oz with no sling or optic, BRT Light 16”, A2, KAC URX4 14.5”, a bunch of rail covers and finger stop, KAC lower, no forward assist forged upper, full mass BCG, H2 buffer, CTR stock, SOLGW aluminum sling MLOK QD cup, rear MBUS only.

If I were trying to shave weight, I might go with fewer rail covers and/ or no finger stop and a lighter buttstock. I might also choose a 10.75” or 13” handguard. Going further, I might pair a shorter, similarly light profile barrel with the shorter handguard, such as a 14.5” or 12.5”. Also, my rifle functions just fine with an H1, but I’m pretty sure thats less than an ounce vs H2, and not in a place I’m interested in losing weight. Using a 20rnd mag also reduces loaded weight vs a 30. And a T2 would be lighter than my Comp M4.

I would not resort to anything Ti, lighter BCG, or any sort of crazy receivers.

I think 6.25 lbs bare/empty is pretty close to the practical floor for a 16” fighting rifle. Also, I didn’t know aluminum sling swivels were a thing (GH41’s rifle). Maybe I’ll buy a pair.

Eta: Wikipedia claims the M16 was 6.37lbs, and Brownells claims 6lbs, 11oz for their A1 clone. Just adding this for perspective.

**GH41** · 09-21-19, 20:49

Originally Posted by 1168

Mine’s at 6lbs, 9oz with no sling or optic, BRT Light 16”, A2, KAC URX4 14.5”, a bunch of rail covers and finger stop, KAC lower, no forward assist forged upper, full mass BCG, H2 buffer, CTR stock, SOLGW aluminum sling MLOK QD cup, rear MBUS only.

If I were trying to shave weight, I might go with fewer rail covers and/ or no finger stop and a lighter buttstock. I might also choose a 10.75” or 13” handguard. Going further, I might pair a shorter, similarly light profile barrel with the shorter handguard, such as a 14.5” or 12.5”. Also, my rifle functions just fine with an H1, but I’m pretty sure thats less than an ounce vs H2, and not in a place I’m interested in losing weight. Using a 20rnd mag also reduces loaded weight vs a 30. And a T2 would be lighter than my Comp M4.

I would not resort to anything Ti, lighter BCG, or any sort of crazy receivers.

I think 6.25 lbs bare/empty is pretty close to the practical floor for a 16” fighting rifle. Also, I didn’t know aluminum sling swivels were a thing (GH41’s rifle). Maybe I’ll buy a pair.

Eta: Wikipedia claims the M16 was 6.37lbs, and Brownells claims 6lbs, 11oz for their A1 clone. Just adding this for perspective.

So you really didn't do anything to save weight.Why did you offer an opinion/solution?

**1168** · 09-21-19, 21:41

Originally Posted by GH41

So you really didn't do anything to save weight.Why did you offer an opinion/solution?

Perhaps because I’ve tried a variety of things and this is where that path has lead me?

Did you not read my post? Pencil profile barrel, a handguard on the lighter end of things with an integrated aluminum barrel nut, no forward assist, a moderately weighted stock, A2 FH, and I noted that 20’s weigh less than 30’s, which is why a 20 lives in this gun’s magwell. I’d say that checks a couple of the boxes for the OP’s RFI.

What did you do differently that makes you more qualified than I to discuss this topic?

**GH41** · 09-22-19, 07:41

Originally Posted by 1168

Perhaps because I’ve tried a variety of things and this is where that path has lead me?

Did you not read my post? Pencil profile barrel, a handguard on the lighter end of things with an integrated aluminum barrel nut, no forward assist, a moderately weighted stock, A2 FH, and I noted that 20’s weigh less than 30’s, which is why a 20 lives in this gun’s magwell. I’d say that checks a couple of the boxes for the OP’s RFI.

What did you do differently that makes you more qualified than I to discuss this topic?

Nothing at all. You and I followed a similar path. Neither of us went through a whole lot of trouble to get where we got.