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Thread: Gas Block Alignment Pins

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Jig Schmig. Just mark the barrel, punch it, and dimple it with a hand drill.

    (Sorry if that's offensive to anyone)
    I’m offended at the poverty of this sentiment


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  2. #12
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    Stick weld the block to the barrel with a 6011 rod

    When you need to remove block just bust out a thermic lance

  3. #13
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    And run some flex seal on that mofo for gas leak control!
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Jig Schmig. Just mark the barrel, punch it, and dimple it with a hand drill.

    (Sorry if that's offensive to anyone)
    Not offended, just sad that you aren't a member of the tool of the month club.
    Patriotism means to stand by the country. It does not mean to stand by the President... - Theodore Roosevelt, Lincoln and Free Speech, Metropolitan Magazine, Volume 47, Number 6, May 1918.

    To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public. Sedition, a Free Press and Personal Rule, The Kansas City Star, May 1918

  5. #15
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    Complete waste of money. This is what I posted on TOS:

    "On an M4 barrel (.062" gas port), the gas block can be off 4.8° and the gas port will still be aligned. On an M16A2 barrel (.092" gas port), the gas block can be off 2.5° and the gas port will still be aligned. That is all those alignment pins will guarantee. You're telling me you can't line the gas block up by eye better than 2.5°? That far off and it would be leaning nearly 1/16" closer to one side of the handguard than the other. 4.8° off and the gas tube would be binding (if it even fit under the rail that far off).

    The only way this could possibly be an issue is if you have a 16" barrel with rifle length gas system with a huge gas port. Even then, it is still off more than 1° and is nearly 1/32" closer to one side of the hand guard than the other. That alignment set probably doesn't have pins that large anyway."


  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by pezboy View Post
    Complete waste of money. This is what I posted on TOS:

    "On an M4 barrel (.062" gas port), the gas block can be off 4.8° and the gas port will still be aligned. On an M16A2 barrel (.092" gas port), the gas block can be off 2.5° and the gas port will still be aligned. That is all those alignment pins will guarantee. You're telling me you can't line the gas block up by eye better than 2.5°? That far off and it would be leaning nearly 1/16" closer to one side of the handguard than the other. 4.8° off and the gas tube would be binding (if it even fit under the rail that far off).

    The only way this could possibly be an issue is if you have a 16" barrel with rifle length gas system with a huge gas port. Even then, it is still off more than 1° and is nearly 1/32" closer to one side of the hand guard than the other. That alignment set probably doesn't have pins that large anyway."

    Did you know my SLR jig indexes off of the center of the gas port so the underside dimple is 0* BDC?


    Science


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  7. #17
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    That's the whole point.

    The dimple and coned tip set screw do a far better job of accurately locating the gas block than jamming toothpicks into the gas port.
    Black River Tactical
    BRT OPTIMUM Barrels - 16" MPR, 14.5" MPC, 11.5" CQB, 9" PDW
    BRT OPTIMUM-S Barrel - 11.5" CQB Suppressor Gas Drive
    BRT OPTIMUM-S Barrel - 11.5" SB Suppressor, 11.5" SBT 25 Deg Tapered Shoulder Suppressor
    BRT Covert Comps 7.62, 5.56, 6X, 9mm
    BRT MarkBlue Gas Tubes - BRT EXT, EXC and PDW Lengths
    BRT EZTUNE Gas Tubes - CAR and MID
    BRT MicroPin Gas Blocks - .750" & .625"
    BRT MicroTUNE Adjustable Gas Blocks
    BRT CustomTUNE Gas Ports

  8. #18
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    Gas Block Alignment Pins

    Quote Originally Posted by pezboy View Post
    Complete waste of money...
    You’re assuming that all gas blocks are the same size and all hand guards have the same clearance. Or that it’s not worth the minimal extra effort to save wear on the gas tube/gas key interface due to slight misalignment.

    Regardless, the various tools available (definitely prefer a jig - I have had a BRDE jig for 4-5 years and dimpled probably a dozen barrels with it) are relatively inexpensive. We waste greater amounts of money all the time on worse. Sometimes “doing it right” has value in and of itself.
    Last edited by JeffM.; 09-28-19 at 14:12.

  9. #19
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    That's not the point. The illustration is meant to show how much deviation can be had and still have alignment.

    As for tube/key alignment, this always needs to be checked (and adjusted, if needed) after a build or tube replacement.

    Quote Originally Posted by JeffM. View Post
    You’re assuming that all gas blocks are the same size and all hand guards have the same clearance. Or that it’s not worth the minimal extra effort to save wear on the gas tube/gas key interface due to slight misalignment.

    Regardless, the various tools available (definitely prefer a jig - I have had a BRDE jig for 4-5 years and dimpled probably a dozen barrels with it) are relatively inexpensive. We waste greater amounts of money all the time on worse. Sometimes “doing it right” has value in and of itself.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Jig Schmig. Just mark the barrel, punch it, and dimple it with a hand drill.

    (Sorry if that's offensive to anyone)
    That gets the job done, but doesn't mean it is done right.

    With over 22 years experience in my building/maintaining/repair of military and LE my opinion is based on training and experience. You need to VERIFY the gas block is directly above and CENTERED on the barrel gas port hole (which also needs drilled to be the correct size). Just assemble it might work for a play firearm, but I build my stuff like lives depend on it....which it did. (Sorry if that's offensive to anyone)

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