Sig P320 Fire Control Group Cleaning

[jrcii]

Hello All,

Those of you that own a Sig P320, when you clean it, do you take the FCG out of the frame, clean and lube it? The manual only talks about cleaning the bore/barrel, the slide, and mags. But the FCG in mine gets pretty dirty and sure looks like it needs cleaning.

I generally do clean mine but it's a pain to take the trigger bar off and grease the spots that were greased when I got it. I think I may be going overboard.

Thanks,

JRC II

[Watrdawg]

I've put about 1200 rounds through mine and have not cleaned it yet. However it's very simple to remove so if you want to clean it go ahead.

[jrcii]

I've put about 1200 rounds through mine and have not cleaned it yet. However it's very simple to remove so if you want to clean it go ahead.

I generally do clean it. I updated my question to make it a bit clearer

[Watrdawg]

I generally do clean it. I updated my question to make it a bit clearer

I see now. The trigger bar is a pain. I swapped mine out with an Apex trigger bar and it was a major pain. I don't think I would go as far as that when doing a cleaning. Probably just wipe it down really well and lube from there. If it were really bad I'd probably blow out the crud with Rem Bore cleaner and wipe down then use whatever lube you are using.

[mark5pt56]

While not the best lube, I simply spray it out with Remoil and blow it out or invert it for a few minutes as I clean the rest.

[Texaspoff]

Hello All,

Those of you that own a Sig P320, when you clean it, do you take the FCG out of the frame, clean and lube it? The manual only talks about cleaning the bore/barrel, the slide, and mags. But the FCG in mine gets pretty dirty and sure looks like it needs cleaning.

I generally do clean mine but it's a pain to take the trigger bar off and grease the spots that were greased when I got it. I think I may be going overboard.

Thanks,

JRC II

While not required, I detail strip mine down after each range session. I do run 5 to 7 hundred rounds through them though when I do shoot them. Detailing gives me a chance to check everything out and look for problems.




TXPO

[Pappabear]

No, I usually wipe out the chamber and feed ramp. If I get crazy, I pull the slide off and wipe it down a little better, some q tips, lube and rock on. Cleaning your guns is bad for their health. Proceed with caution.

PB

[halfmoonclip]

No need to pull out the chassis every time; perhaps after a lot of shooting, every 500 rounds?
Pulled the chassis out of a P365 after about that many rounds; got rid of the visible crud, and put it back together.
Without a good schematic, I'd be hesitant to detail strip the chassis. There's nothing like looking for trouble.
Moon

[m1a_scoutguy]

I don't have a Sig 320 but I run CZs and last time I cleaned my 07 I had over 1000 rds through it and it was pretty dirty! I have used One-Shot for a few years now and really like it. When I was spraying my gun the black gunk was running out of it,
I normally spray the heck out of it, use a toothbrush and scrub around with it and spray a few more times till it runs clear! Good stuff I feel. I will then put oil or grease on the slide depending on the season and call it a day! I will swab the bore with Hoppes and then dry patch it & that's about it ! I think it would work fine on your Sigs trigger group.

[GJM]

My understanding is that Sig recommends the FCU be cleaned but not lubricated. This is a post, not mine, I copied part of from the X5 thread on Enos:

Just as importantly, here are the important new things I learned about LUBRICATION:
• Striker assembly is cleaned and dried only. DO NOT LUBRICATE THE (FIRING PIN) STRIKER ASSEMBLY.
• Sear and sear assembly is cleaned and dried only. DO NOT LUBRICATE THE SEAR ASSEMBLY.
As a mechanical engineer, the “don’t lube the sear assembly area” originally did not make sense to me. It did make sense after we disassembled the entire pistol and I saw a few things and experienced them for myself.
1. The materials that those parts are made of are innately VERY slick.
2. The parts do not move very much at all, they rock a for a short distance and that is it (they are not rotating in circles like a crankshaft).
3. Because they need no lubrication, adding lubrication simply gives carbon, dirt, etc. a place to collect and really gum up the works.
4. My personal experience = when when the action parts (sear, etc.) are lubricated, my trigger action got sluggish and very dull =
not crisp on break and reset.