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Thread: WFT vs. WCT case trimmer experience? Heck, Lee too

  1. #11
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    Jun 2019
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    But that cutter is just a basic high speed steel endmill. Very inexpensive. Here's a stupid cheap one for example https://www.shars.com/products/cutti...ingle-end-mill. You want a 4 flute square endmill, 5/16" diameter, 3/8" shank. No need for center-cutting. No need for carbide, fancy coatings, or some $20 MSC or Grainger option. eBay littered

    3k is short life for the original cutter. Use Dillon or FA spray lube (or homebrew lanolin + 100% alcohol). And let the cutter do the work vs jamming the cases into it forcefully. Both of those will extend the cutter's life.
    I can drink a quart of monkey and still stand still...

  2. #12
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    I have found that my Lapua cases need very little attention to the pockets. I wet tumble with pins, after de-capping, so the pockets get cleaned then.
    I am not generally in love with Hornady, but I do use their Lock n Load trimmer, a little slow, but quite accurate. As for chamfer and de-burr, I just sit in the easy chair and do 'em up with my rocketship. I usually batch process.

    I meant to say cam lock instead of lock n load.

  3. #13
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    Been using the WFT and WFT2 for a couple years now and see no reason to do otherwise. It's simple and reliable.
    "You can't stop insane people from doing insane things with insane laws...it's...insane!" -- Penn Jillette

  4. #14
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    There isn't a hard rule that a trimmer must include a chamfer, or that you must chamfer, but...

    If you don't chamfer after a trim, then you have to accept a very sharp facet scratching the bullet as it is seated. If that works for an application, then the straight cut trimmers mentioned are all fine.

    If your necks can be well controlled, one of the tri-trimmers is an advantage since you can get those chamfers all in the same step. If your necks are not tuned to the adjustments, then a straight cut is best but then you may want another step to chamfer the ID.

    Trimmers like the ones that also have extra motorized stations allow for those to be used for the chamfer tools, so as long as you don't mind that extra set of steps, those tools compliment your tools.

    I think it is good to have all of the different types for contingencies, but I fully understand what budgets are like for those who work for a living while raising kids, etc. These things accumulate over a lifetime.

    The Wilson and Forster set ups are very accurate and flexible. I use them for development work. I have most of the others too, the Giraud, WFT, RCBS, etc. I keep the Girauds set up for 223, 6, and 30 cal all the time and just make sure those necks are at the correct size for the ID chamfer to do its thing.

    I gave my Best Man one of those Frandford set ups since he is just getting started and doesn't have his reloading standardized just yet. It works well for his level of loading and I don't think it is expensive relatively speaking. I will upgrade his cutter when I get the chance since it appears to be a cheap tool, but it looks like a standard cutter will plug in.

    When you consider the amount of guys who shoot with ammo loaded on a Dillon with nothing but a straight cut, and that some of those guys went High Master on that ammo, it says for some purposes the chamfer detail doesn't matter. One has to test their own processes to find out.

  5. #15
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    Use the WFT just replaced the cutter with a Carbide mill from WFT Works good and is FAST chamfer and debur after is needed.easy to adjust. Probably 5000 rnds or more
    New carbide mill was only $25.00

  6. #16
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    I use WFT for 500 cases and under. Does a great job. I utilize either a giraud or Dillion for above 500 cases. That is usually my 556 and 7.62 High Power runs.

  7. #17
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    I ended up with a WCT based on reviews that it is guaranteed to consistently trim a case (1 task I wanted) while my other want (no need to chamfer/debur) didn't seem to be 100% guaranteed with an increase in cost.

    First 100 cases and I am happy with the WCT. Much faster than the Lee cutter/lock stud while (so far) being idiot proof. Smooth cut so just a slight chamfer inside the mouth has the brass ready to prime.

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