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Thread: Re-Anodizing after engraving lower

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    Just leave it. Why bother? It won't hurt a thing.
    One of the lowers is a Brownells XM177E1 slab side with dark gray anodizing. It's already engraved with the Brownells serial # etc. prior to their anodizing. Just wanting more of a consistent look to the lower without white/bare aluminum logo/lettering standing out.
    Maj. USAR (Ret) 160th SOAR, 2/17 CAV
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    Black Mesa Ranch. Raising Fine Cattle and Horses in San Miguel County since 1879

  2. #12
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    Last time I checked on getting a receiver in the white anodized it was around $160 so I would make one of the pens or paint work.
    “The Trump Doctrine is ‘We’re America, Bitch.’ That’s the Trump Doctrine.”

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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack7.62 View Post
    Last time I checked on getting a receiver in the white anodized it was around $160 so I would make one of the pens or paint work.
    I tend to agree, but these lowers are not in the white - only the engraved areas.
    Maj. USAR (Ret) 160th SOAR, 2/17 CAV
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    Black Mesa Ranch. Raising Fine Cattle and Horses in San Miguel County since 1879

  4. #14
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    You might try reaching out to Brownells, explain your predicament and see if by chance they could have them touched up for you.
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by OH58D View Post
    The lowers in question are not NFA items, and are currently stripped. I have looked at US Anodizing as an option, but it appears @ $250 to remove current finish and re-anodize for 1 lower.
    You may already know this but if you want them anodized they will have to be stripped and re-anodized. There is no such thing as touching it up. They will have to chemically etch the coating away and reapply it. A shop that does it right will etch only until when checked with an ohm meter, that it's electrically conductive again so there's no danger of enlarging pin holes, etc. That's for someone who knows what they are doing, which most shops will.

    And FWIW, the charge should basically be a lot charge. It's only a matter of clamping 2 lowers vs. 1 lower on the rack. After that there's no increase in labor, cost or time to the anodizer. If you send 1 or 6 the cost should be essentially the same.

    If it were me, I'd be looking at ceracoat or similar. Just easier and cheaper.
    Last edited by shadowrider; 10-28-19 at 20:13.

  6. #16
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    At this point, I'm looking at a color close to the lower itself to fill in the engraving, just to cut back on the brightness of the raw aluminium. I am certain Brownells would not want anything to do with one of their lowers that I have altered with my own markings. I am also talking to the engraver to see if they have a filler material to fill-in the engraving.
    Maj. USAR (Ret) 160th SOAR, 2/17 CAV
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    Black Mesa Ranch. Raising Fine Cattle and Horses in San Miguel County since 1879

  7. #17
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    Taking a while to dry in the recesses, but that is the MLP pen grey shade.

    I will advise against over do and wipe off excess. Harder to remove excess while leaving the fill than I thought it was going to be.

    Just thought about it and gray on Gray may not be an issue in your case.


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    Last edited by jsbhike; 10-28-19 at 22:41.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadowrider View Post
    You may already know this but if you want them anodized they will have to be stripped and re-anodized. There is no such thing as touching it up. They will have to chemically etch the coating away and reapply it. A shop that does it right will etch only until when checked with an ohm meter, that it's electrically conductive again so there's no danger of enlarging pin holes, etc. That's for someone who knows what they are doing, which most shops will.

    And FWIW, the charge should basically be a lot charge. It's only a matter of clamping 2 lowers vs. 1 lower on the rack. After that there's no increase in labor, cost or time to the anodizer. If you send 1 or 6 the cost should be essentially the same.

    If it were me, I'd be looking at ceracoat or similar. Just easier and cheaper.
    That makes sense, and from my limited knowledge of anodizing, to remove it also removes some of the aluminum surface with it prior to re-anodizing. The problem with coating just the lower would be a coat of the upper as well. Something I hadn't planned on doing.

    Quote Originally Posted by jsbhike View Post
    Taking a while to dry in the recesses, but that is the MLP pen grey shade.

    I will advise against over do and wipe off excess. Harder to remove excess while leaving the fill than I thought it was going to be.

    Just thought about it and gray on Gray may not be an issue in your case.
    The MLP pen seems like an option, but I would have to apply in little spots, then dab off excess immediately. Again, I am only looking to fill in the engrave "white bare aluminum". I have seen people try filling in with paint to crayons. Too bad I couldn't have found a stripped 100% lower with no anodizing. As I mentioned above, I am in touch with the engraver to see if they have some kind of filler I can use, close to the XM-Gray to color the engraving.
    Maj. USAR (Ret) 160th SOAR, 2/17 CAV
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    Black Mesa Ranch. Raising Fine Cattle and Horses in San Miguel County since 1879

  9. #19
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    If color filling the script looks like the likely option take a look at your local hobby lobby. They were selling model master custom enamel paint in a color known as panzer gray FS36076. It also had 1950 on top of the lid. This is a color match to the gray that nodak had on their slab sided lowers and trigger charging handle inside of the carry handle a1 uppers.

  10. #20
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    A bit tricky to apply but comes in different colors and has lasted for years on some of my lowers.

    I have an old silver stick that dirties up to gray but I don't see that color available anymore.

    Maybe black would work out? Not like you need to be able to easily read the engraving...

    Lacquer-Stik Paintstick, Black - 051123 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3IOFS8..._nv7TDbFNH6G3W

    Dennis.

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