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Thread: Correct Method of Tightening Castle Nut

  1. #11
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    Hold the wrench as perpendicular to the RE and castle nut as possible. I've seen when the wrench isn't 90 degree to the bore, it can put tremendous amount of torque, all localized on the weakest part of the castle nut's wrench notches, the picture below is an example of it.


    Screen Shot 2019-11-11 at 8.11.19 AM.jpg
    Last edited by Duffy; 11-11-19 at 11:18.
    Roger Wang
    Forward Controls Design
    Simplicity is the sign of truth

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegademiC View Post
    I mostly tighten, twist the tube while holding the nut, then torque and it ends up straight imo.
    That's what I do. Some parts combos don't require any effort, where others have a lot of turn play.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpmuscle View Post
    Without a jig there is a little trial and error as far as alignment goes.

    Torque spec is 32-40 ft/lbs


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    38-42 ft/lbs
    E pluribus unum

  4. #14
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    Indeed, we laser engraved it on our JCW (Joint Castle nut Wrench) as a reminder
    JCW has a 2 lug wrench on one side, and a conventional 3 lug wrench on the other.

    jcwlaser.jpg
    Last edited by Duffy; 11-12-19 at 12:30.
    Roger Wang
    Forward Controls Design
    Simplicity is the sign of truth

  5. #15
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    Op the only jig I know of for this procedure is the one I now use. Present Arms Gunners mount with both the lower receiver and extension components. It holds both the lower and the receiver extension secure. It is not cheep but neither is the end plate tab gouging out the threads on Vltor A5 extensions using the Geissele Reaction Block, which allows the lower and end plate to rotate from the friction of the castle nut face on the end plate. My OCD disallows me to put up with alignment error or simply snugging a castle nut short of full torque spec, which is not desirable even with staking as threads on the receiver, nut and extension can have more play than the should sometimes.

    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod58630.aspx
    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...rod105281.aspx
    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...rod105284.aspx

    Without modification the present arms jig is not compatible with Colt lowers that block auto sears in the fire control pocket and is not compatible with lowers using right side bolt catch and releases (LMT MARS-L and LWRC IC). Also some billet lowers might not work.

  6. #16
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    Im late to the game but install the assembly and using a stock to apply reverse tension when torquing helps a lot. Gooduntite then check and stake. It doesnt take much to hit 40ft/lbs unless your some antifa dweeb.

    PS. Anti-Seize on the threads,
    "your AR is shit, change my mind" - Will Larson

    I make work horses, not show ponies.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve-0- View Post
    Im late to the game but install the assembly and using a stock to apply reverse tension when torquing helps a lot. Gooduntite then check and stake. It doesnt take much to hit 40ft/lbs unless your some antifa dweeb.

    PS. Anti-Seize on the threads,
    This is what I do except I use the grip while the RE is in the reaction block.
    E pluribus unum

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegademiC View Post
    I mostly tighten, twist the tube while holding the nut, then torque and it ends up straight imo.
    'Bout what I do. Get behind gun. Eye it. Easy. Get it tight, stake with center punch.

    And don't listen to the "blue-loctite-only-crew". Their jive is bunk, yo.

  9. #19
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    Stake with a center punch.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpmuscle View Post
    Without a jig there is a little trial and error as far as alignment goes.

    Torque spec is 32-40 ft/lbs


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    This....is right. I can't imagine one loosening from this torque, with or without a staking.....

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