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Thread: Correct Method of Tightening Castle Nut

  1. #21
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    Many have seen castle nut loosen even with staking. TM specifies the castle nut to be staked in two places.

    Those that don't believe in staking would cite "never happened to me" or "never saw it happen" as reasons, they're not reasons to me, but rather excuses for defending their position. Either it's done correctly, or it's done incorrectly. For a hobby grade AR, one can get away with improperly installed (i.e. non-staked) castle nuts, for everything else, it's a good idea to follow best practice and what Colt, FN, Colt, SOLGW, SIONICS, BCM, etc. do.

    https://www.forwardcontrolsdesign.co...t_ep_64-1.html
    Last edited by Duffy; 11-19-19 at 11:16.
    Roger Wang
    Forward Controls Design
    Simplicity is the sign of truth

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffy View Post
    Many have seen castle nut loosen even with staking. TM specifies the castle nut to be staked in two places.
    I noticed that both of my recent Colt AR purchases had staking in two locations.
    - Rhino

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSMullins View Post
    This....is right. I can't imagine one loosening from this torque, with or without a staking.....
    The correct torque spec is 38-42 foot pounds.

  4. #24
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    Iraqgunz (Will Larson) was big on "little things" like this, and it irked him that many big companies still don't do it right. It was a polarizing topic whenever it came up on FB, but it shouldn't be.

    Some think it unnecessary and mention their decades of gunsmithing experience, that's really inconsequential. Exposure to something does not make a person an expert in the field.
    Last edited by Duffy; 11-19-19 at 12:07.
    Roger Wang
    Forward Controls Design
    Simplicity is the sign of truth

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSMullins View Post
    This....is right. I can't imagine one loosening from this torque, with or without a staking.....
    No it is not, read posts #13 and 14, reference AR TM 9-1005-319-23&P.

    ETA: And #23
    Last edited by titsonritz; 11-19-19 at 14:59.
    E pluribus unum

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffy View Post
    Many have seen castle nut loosen even with staking. TM specifies the castle nut to be staked in two places.

    Those that don't believe in staking would cite "never happened to me" or "never saw it happen" as reasons, they're not reasons to me, but rather excuses for defending their position. Either it's done correctly, or it's done incorrectly. For a hobby grade AR, one can get away with improperly installed (i.e. non-staked) castle nuts, for everything else, it's a good idea to follow best practice and what Colt, FN, Colt, SOLGW, SIONICS, BCM, etc. do.

    https://www.forwardcontrolsdesign.co...t_ep_64-1.html
    Excellent write up.
    Big brother is watching...and listening.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duffy View Post
    Indeed, we laser engraved it on our JCW (Joint Castle nut Wrench) as a reminder
    JCW has a 2 lug wrench on one side, and a conventional 3 lug wrench on the other.

    Attachment 59597
    It would be nice if you engraved the center to center distance of the half inch receiver hole and the spanner area so it would make it easier to compensate for the additional length when attaching it to a torque wrench.

  8. #28
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    As you all know, the fitment between the end plate and the extension along with the rotational torque will turn the extension past the ideal point causing the canting. three things

    If possible, try to use an end plate with a nice wide tab to minimize play in the channel of the extension.

    Hand tighten the castle nut as tight as possible (spray some MAN on it or use Triactin) and hold the extension turning it counter clockwise while doing so. The extension will appear to be canted to the right at this point. This is observed from the butt end and the stock toe would appear to be to the right (5:45, clock method)

    As you tighten, the torque will turn the extension a tad and it will end up at the 6:00 position. You may need to hold the extension or stock to aid in the alignment.

    Stock end plates usually are loose fitting causing the cant to be worse than aftermarket ones which usually fit with less lateral play between the tab and channel.

    Yes, never seen a staked one loosen but have seen plenty of unstaked ones do so.
    GET IN YOUR BUBBLE!

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by EzGoingKev View Post
    It would be nice if you engraved the center to center distance of the half inch receiver hole and the spanner area so it would make it easier to compensate for the additional length when attaching it to a torque wrench.

    Do the math, I haven't yet on the above extension but I know by using the Magpul wrench with a torque drops it down to the low 20's, don't have it in front of me but it's 22-23. Remember your torque wrench length will affect this number. I'm guessing that's why it's not listed and it's easily measured or estimated.
    https://www.protorquetools.com/formu...torque-wrench/
    GET IN YOUR BUBBLE!

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark5pt56 View Post
    Do the math, I haven't yet on the above extension but I know by using the Magpul wrench with a torque drops it down to the low 20's, don't have it in front of me but it's 22-23. Remember your torque wrench length will affect this number. I'm guessing that's why it's not listed and it's easily measured or estimated.
    https://www.protorquetools.com/formu...torque-wrench/
    I did not ask for the formula or any of that.

    Snap-on engraves it on their torque adapters -

    snapon.jpg

    If you are going to engrave info on there you might as well include that too.

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