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Thread: Revolver Cleaning Miracle

  1. #1
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    Revolver Cleaning Miracle

    For as long as I’ve owned revolvers it has bothered me how hard it was to clean the front of the cylinder.

    Last week I ran across something I can only describe as miraculous.

    For some reason I had one of the Colgate charcoal tooth brushes on my Gun bench. I used it to clean my stainless .44 and when it came to the front of the cylinder it took the powder burns off better than anything I have used to date.

    Try it and see if your results are similar. I was truly shocked at how well it worked.


  2. #2
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    I use solvent and a bronze bristle brush. I think it's a 20 ga bore brush I dont use for anything else. I use it on such build up spots.

    Works pretty well. Doesn't have to be perfect. Glad you found something that works.

  3. #3
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    Not going to hurt a stainless gun unless it has a coating of some type, but charcoal is pretty damned abrasive. I'd not do that on a blued gun or especially one of the titanium cylinder guns.

    I've used a Braun electric TB for years and had never even heard of these brushes until now. I'll be picking some of these up just for my stainless guns to try. Sounds just crazy enough to work!

  4. #4
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    Have you ever used Kleenbore's de-leading wipe? Pretty much magic on a stainless gun.

  5. #5
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    Revolver Cleaning Miracle

    Quote Originally Posted by RadioActivity View Post
    Have you ever used Kleenbore's de-leading wipe? Pretty much magic on a stainless gun.
    Yep they don’t work worth a damn.

    Good point about the blued revolvers. I have a blued Aussie police trade in I should test it out on to find out. It is designed for your teeth so I can’t imagine it is too abrasive.

    Stainless at least is good to go.

  6. #6
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    Some years ago, had an epiphany about burn marks on the cylinder face.
    They hurt nothing, and will return when next you shoot the gun.
    If preparing for sale, maybe clean it; concur that aggressive cleaning is potentially harmful to blue or nickle finishes
    Otherwise, just leave the marks alone.
    Moon

  7. #7
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    Try Flitz, on an old toothbrush.
    “Detached Reflection Cannot Be Demanded in the Presence of an Uplifted Knife” ~ Brown v. United States (1921)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by anachronism View Post
    Try Flitz, on an old toothbrush.
    I've used Flitz or Brasso to remove stubborn lead off the face of the cylinder on a stainless revolver followed by the normal cleaning regimen. I would not do it on a regular basis, but once or twice a year won't hurt anything.
    Train 2 Win

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by halfmoonclip View Post
    Some years ago, had an epiphany about burn marks on the cylinder face.
    They hurt nothing, and will return when next you shoot the gun.
    If preparing for sale, maybe clean it; concur that aggressive cleaning is potentially harmful to blue or nickle finishes
    Otherwise, just leave the marks alone.
    Moon
    That is my philosophy as well.
    Cleaning as soon as you finish shooting while the gun is still warm works surprisingly well.
    I use Hoppe’s with a patch or paper towel to wipe all exterior surfaces after running a wet patch through the bore and chambers.
    Let the Hoppe’s work there while you attend to the outside.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by RadioActivity View Post
    Have you ever used Kleenbore's de-leading wipe? Pretty much magic on a stainless gun.
    Agreed. Magic.
    RealeyesRealizeRealLies

    BCM 16" RECCE MK2 DkBrz, Custom Mk12 Mod1 built by Monty LeClair, 16" Middy w/ HCS RECCE barrel, A5, Young NM BCG, SSP, Geissele NM rail, Ops Inc., Super CH. 14.5" middy Noveske Afghan X3, 10.3" pistol DD barrell, Benelli M4, Ruger 10/22 w/Victor stock, GLOCK 17 Gen 4, Dan Wesson Valor Duty Coat, Dan Wesson Valor Blue, Dan Wesson Silverback 10mm, S&W 27 4"

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