Let’s Talk About Safes...

[RIDE]

I’m looking to upgrade both size and security of my safe. A lot has changed over the years.

Let’s keep this focused on safes, and assume for this discussion that the other layers of security are already met (alarm system, dogs, opsec, etc).

The research thus far has led to the upper ends of Liberty Safes (the presidential 50), the liberty National security magnum 50 (same as the presidential, but external hinges and different esthetics), then the Fort Knox Titan or Legend, and possible the AMSEC BF or BFII.

I’m looking at an in-home safe, so while obviously the security features are by far the top priority, the esthetics are of interest as well (I’m married, so yeah).

The features that seem to be of concern is the actual STEEL thickness of not only the door but the rest if the body as well.

Then there’s the locking features. Liberty now has 4” steel bars instead of cylinder bolts. Liberty “says” the bats are superior to the bolts as they have more surface area. But which is better really? Thicker bolts or more surface area bars? Liberty contends that in a safe attack, the bolts break at the riveted connection to the locking mechanism. ?

I like the Fort Knox safes with the corner bolts as well as 4-way bolts around the door. But is liberty correct in their contention that bolts in general snap at the rivet point?

I like the specs of the AMSEC options but they seem fairly basic from an options standpoint and esthetically fairly boring.

Locks... digital vs manual. I like the quick access, and ability to change combinations of digital. I also like the look and dependability of the classic manual lock. From a quick look around the web, it looks like for someone that knows what they are doing, a manual lock might be fairly easy to crack and the digital is much more difficulty crack the code.
Fort Knox has a “redundant lock” option that has TWO locks on the door, 1 electronic and 1 manual. The theory being that if the electronic fails (battery, solenoid, EMP, etc) the safe can be opened with the manual lock. But... if the manual lock is easy (for some) to crack, the redundancy of the two locks seems to negate the security aspects of the electronic lock.

Relockers.. these are new to me. They seem important though. If a safe is tampered with and a relocker fires, how will I be able to access the safe?

Lastly, what general percentage/ratio do you find reasonable or advisable for a cost of safe vs value of contents?

Thoughts?




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[diving dave]

Libertys are nice. I have 2, one with electric combo and the other manual. Alot of people have had issues with the electric combos but I'm going on 10 years no issues.

[Grand58742]

Libertys are nice. I have 2, one with electric combo and the other manual. Alot of people have had issues with the electric combos but I'm going on 10 years no issues.

Same here, though I went with the mechanical combo lock.

One investment for any safe should be a dehumidifier.

[RIDE]

Were your Liberty’s with the new “bar” locks?


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[Pappabear]

I have several safes. I have one premium safe that is twice as heavy as my Sportsmans warehouse Browning safe. IMHO, I feel like my situation is that I'm keeping tweekers out of my shit and dont feel like I need the best super heavy beast mode. I cant move my high end safe, it takes professional movers to do it. Thats good and bad. My guess is you will be happy with any of those safes.

Good luck.

PB

[Grand58742]

Were your Liberty’s with the new “bar” locks?


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I'm not sure when they put in the "new bars" as I got mine in 2012. It's a Franklin 35 though.

[JoshNC]

I personally don’t mess with typical RSC type gun safes. If you want real security that can’t be breached by any monkey with a Sawzall, buy a composite TL15, composite TL30, or better yet a composite TL30x6. The composite TL15 is a nice compromise in that they are not as heavy nor as expensive as a TL30 or TL30x6. I recommend buying a used reconditioned TL, as they will be quite reasonable in price (in many cases close in price to one of the high end RSC gun safes). The insurance industry has very specific metrics for the monetary value that can be insure in the various high security (TL, TRTL, TXTL) safes. And don’t mess with electronic locks.

[wrx04]

Josh has great advice.

Also look into Graffunder. Probably what I would buy if I wanted a high quality safe for home use.

[WillBrink]

I’m looking to upgrade both size and security of my safe. A lot has changed over the years.

Let’s keep this focused on safes, and assume for this discussion that the other layers of security are already met (alarm system, dogs, opsec, etc).

The research thus far has led to the upper ends of Liberty Safes (the presidential 50), the liberty National security magnum 50 (same as the presidential, but external hinges and different esthetics), then the Fort Knox Titan or Legend, and possible the AMSEC BF or BFII.
[/IMG]


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Here's my general write up on safes for additional info/thoughts on the topic. Personally, I'd go with the AMSEC product any day. They focus on security vs shiny paint and such and have more experience designing and building safes (actually an RSC) than anyone else.

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...-gun-safe-info

[Adrenaline_6]

A sub contractor locksmith that I deal with at work told me if your smart, you don't break into a safe through the door, you break into the side or back. That is where most of them are weaker.