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Thread: When you clean your bolt guns, how many patches, how clean, when is enough enough?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenneth View Post
    3 wet patches soaked with Boretech eliminator. Scrub with nylon 10 strokes with Boretech eliminator. One wet patch with eliminator. Then dry patches until comes out clean. One wet patch with kroil and let soak for a bit. One dry patch then clean action.
    This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

    Boretech Eliminator is a Godsend. It makes cleaning so much faster, safer, and easier. You can't leave it in too long. It works better and faster than ANY of the Ammonia based cleaners. It is completely odorless and cannot harm the gun. I keep telling people, once you use it, you'll toss all of your other copper cleaning bore solvents.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Humpy70 View Post

    I will use like four patches with 20 to 25 passes on each pass.
    You run the same patch down the barrel 20-25 times? And then run four more patches, each 25 times?

    Hello?
    Last edited by Schootz; 01-26-20 at 16:28.

  3. #23
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    Every barrel is different, you need to see with yours. Try a method and follow with another to check effectiveness. For instance, my AI-2-3 wet patches with a dry one or two in between and it's done. I follow with oil and patch out. To check early on, I wet patched, follow with a clean brush and patch-nothing. Now the Ruger Precision?-yeah brass brush is required.

    I like the candy bar over a piece of glass verses a brick on a warm day analogy.
    GET IN YOUR BUBBLE!

  4. #24
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    I'm a minimalist on cleaning, including bolt guns. Don't clean every range trip, tend to defer cleaning until I see an impact on accuracy/precision. I have two levels: normal and deep cleaning.

    Normal: Mpro-7 cleaner, run patches with Dewey rod or Otis kit until patches come out clean. I don't obsess about getting them "absolutely spotless" clean either. To get them to this clean enough stage takes anywhere from 3 - 10 patches.

    Deep (once or twice a year, depends on usage): Boretech Eliminator (a non-toxic, nearly odorless deep cleaning solvent that works on copper build-up, you can use inside, and even without gloves).

  5. #25
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    Shootz yes Sir. After 25 passes they will be so black it is hard to determine if you are doing anything till you change patches.

  6. #26
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    Unless I see obvious decrease in accuracy, not just silly things like three round groups, (or I’m running suppressed a lot) I pretty much don’t clean my bolt guns. It seems like a lot of the old adage of you need to clean X often is based on what someone told someone who told someone else without any real reason behind it.

  7. #27
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    I honestly expected this thread to be comical, but it's super informative. Sometimes, M4C really shines. Odd that it's mostly in the non-AR-related forums...

    Anyway, I use Sweets and Kroil. I send some kroil down the bore and let it soak a while, then run a nylon brush down before patching it dry. Do the same with Sweets. EuroDriver shared his method with me, and that is all I've used. Bore Tech Eliminator sounds fricken sweet(s), though. I'll have to take a look.

  8. #28
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    Heck, I don't like bringing patches back to the chamber. If you jag punch them, they drop once you get past the barrel. I wipe my rod after each patch. That way, if anything, the gunk works its way to the muzzle end. If it is a low end barrel, I'll run a few patches of bore paste, then clean it before shooting, hoping to smooth out any tool marks. I'm not using a Tubb Fireworks or what ever he calls it.

    I do find that the EWL cleaners are awesome at getting crud out. I used to do CLP for everything, but I feel like the EWL waterborne cleaners are easier (nicer) to work with and real CLEAN a barrel.
    The Second Amendment ACKNOWLEDGES our right to own and bear arms that are in common use that can be used for lawful purposes. The arms can be restricted ONLY if subject to historical analogue from the founding era or is dangerous (unsafe) AND unusual.

    It's that simple.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by lsllc View Post
    This does not make any sense at all.

    A rifle barrel can be both hand-lapped and button rifled. I fail to see the difference here. Lapping is a process done to a barrel to eliminate machining marks; smithing out tough places in the bore.

    Hand-lapped barrels tend to shred less copper and oftentimes clean with fewer passes when new, but factory standard barrels break in with time. Premium barrels or aftermarket match-grade barrels tend to be hand-lapped.


    ETA:

    The rifling types we most common see are button-rifled, cut-rifled, and hammer-forged.

    Most barrels in the precision rifle community tend to be button rifled (think Shilen, Lilja, Douglas, Schneider, Hart, etc) or cut-rifled (Kreiger, Bartlein, etc)

    Rarely do we see hammer-forged except factory rifles like Tikka, Ruger, etc.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I meant cut rifled or button rifled, and hand lapped or not but I mixed the two together.

    Thanks for catching that. You earned one internet point today.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by noonesshowmonkey View Post
    I honestly expected this thread to be comical, but it's super informative. Sometimes, M4C really shines. Odd that it's mostly in the non-AR-related forums...

    Anyway, I use Sweets and Kroil. I send some kroil down the bore and let it soak a while, then run a nylon brush down before patching it dry. Do the same with Sweets. EuroDriver shared his method with me, and that is all I've used. Bore Tech Eliminator sounds fricken sweet(s), though. I'll have to take a look.
    FWIW my new method is bore tech eliminator lol

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