Alternate buffer tube question

[26 Inf]

Going to eat with F-in-L will post a layout of A5 buffer weights later.

OP - here is what I've put together from different sources:

A5 Buffer Weights and Make-Up:

A5H0: 3.8 oz 0 tungsten, 4 steel
A5H1: 4.56oz 1 tungsten, 3 steel
A5H2: 5.33oz 2 tungsten, 2 steel
A5H3: 6.08oz 3 tungsten, 1 steel
A5H4: 6.83oz 4 tungsten, 0 steel

Carbine Buffers and make up:

Carbine Buffer (Avg 3.0 oz) Includes 3 Steel Weights
Heavy (H) Buffer (Avg 3.8 oz) Includes 1 Tungsten + 2 Steel Weights
H2 Buffer (Avg 4.7 oz) Includes 2 Tungsten + 1 Steel Weights
H3 Buffer (Avg 5.6 oz) Includes 3 Tungsten weights

Rifle Buffer and make up:

Rifle Buffer (Avg 5.0 oz) Includes 5 Steel Weights + 1 Aluminum Spacer

Heavy (R7) Buffer: (Avg. 6.15 ox) Includes 7 steel Weights (replace aluminum space with two steel weights and rubber disks)


Like many have posted for new builds, I'd go with the A5 system. If I was replacing a receiver extension, I'd go with the A5, unless I had numerous extra carbine buffers of differing weights and/or extra weights to change as needed.

[titsonritz]

Are the buffer tubes that come with the SBA3 braces GTG?

They don't have dry film if that makes difference to you, I ended up using a Colt RE with my SBA3.

[titsonritz]

Like many have posted for new builds, I'd go with the A5 system. If I was replacing a receiver extension, I'd go with the A5, unless I had numerous extra carbine buffers of differing weights and/or extra weights to change as needed.

^^^Exactly this. I'm not going out of my way to replace anymore factory build weapons with an A5 RE (I did with my 6920) at least until I wear the action spring, but I won't build any new carbines without an A5

[JediGuy]

^^^Exactly this. I'm not going out of my way to replace anymore factory build weapons with an A5 RE (I did with my 6920) at least until I wear the action spring, but I won't build any new carbines without an A5

I sold off my factory lowers and built everything with A5’s at this point. I guess the complete PSA lower would be the exception, but the staking was nonexistent anyway, so I don’t really count that.

[26 Inf]

I sold off my factory lowers and built everything with A5’s at this point. I guess the complete PSA lower would be the exception, but the staking was nonexistent anyway, so I don’t really count that.

I quit staking a while back:

Attachment 60519

[Diamondback]

I quit staking a while back:

Attachment 60519

Old-style CAR lockring modified with setscrews is certainly another (and reusable) way to solve the problem, one worthy of props for KISS ingenuity. Cheaper than a PWS ratcheting endplate/castle set too, probably.

[prepare]

They don't have dry film if that makes difference to you, I ended up using a Colt RE with my SBA3.

Another example of Mil-Spec thats not really Mil-Spec.

[JediGuy]

Cheaper than a PWS ratcheting endplate/castle set too, probably.

Smarter than I... I am actually switching two lowers over to the PWS system for a specific reason that requires I have the ability to change extensions.

[Diamondback]

Smarter than I... I am actually switching two lowers over to the PWS system for a specific reason that requires I have the ability to change extensions.

Convertible pistol/rifle? That's why I put one on the Mk 18... if I can find a source for the new style of lockring our northern neighbors are switching to that has more holes for the wrench tooth to engage, and find the right size setscrew, I may surplus my two sets.

[17K]

For known quality I stick with LMT or Colt as I know those are impact extruded with rolled threads.