It ain't about bending, but fitting.
There are few, if any, "drop in parts" in a 1911.
Look at this diagram. The shaded area determines depth of claw in relation to case. (I have always called it the "doughnut".)
Remove material here.
Think about how the 1911 functions; the extractor doesn't SNAP over the case- the slide pops the cartridge out of magazine as it goes into battery, sliding the case rim under, and into, the extractor claw.
You can't have any sharp edges at these contact points- as MOST extractors come from manufacturer.
Properly radius/polish and undercut the extractor claw. Leaving a sharp, 90 degree "corner" will bite into case: web/rim and will never work properly.
THEN worry about "bending"/tensioning it.
Frequently the extractor tip, or nose needs to be shortened as well. Common for a new extractor to be so long it will contact the barrel when going into battery.
Understanding the relationship, or interrelationship, between parts is a big deal in having a 1911 that functions flawlessly.
You can't be simply throwing parts together with any expectation that everything will work.
Get a mentor. Go to a 1911 gunsmith class.
Something.
Last edited by gaijin; 01-24-20 at 05:46.
A true "Gun Guy" (or gal) should have familiarity and a modicum of proficiency with most all firearms platforms.
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