Introducing the RUKH adjustable offset mount!

[Valhalla]

This work for lefties?

Yes, the mount is fully reversible.

[Valhalla]

I guess it wouldn't matter if all you care about is the windage zero working at only one range.

Being a secondary optic designed for close-range engagement (i.e. when your primary is dialed-out with a high magnification), what is the maximum yardage do you guys foresee this offset mount will be used for? ~300?

[Valhalla]

Crickets?

Sorry, it took longer than expected to pack up our booth at Shot Show... and then the 3+ days drive back to Ohio. Playing tag with the weather system that constantly dump snows in front of me didn't help either!! I will update the OT with more photos. =)

[MegademiC]

Yeah, I've used offset RDS mounts for years and I prefer them to be aligned with the bore axis so I can zero without having to draw diagrams.

Can one of you guys explain what you are talking about further?
Im trying to wrap my head around any issue other than if the mount was not perpendicular to the bore (lets assume it is).
Wouldnt any zero be off (assume practical distance) the same or less than distance of optic from bore?

[caporider]

Can one of you guys explain what you are talking about further?
Im trying to wrap my head around any issue other than if the mount was not perpendicular to the bore (lets assume it is).
Wouldnt any zero be off (assume practical distance) the same or less than distance of optic from bore?

Yep, the issue is whether the optic is perpendicular to the bore. Zeroing and offsets are a pain when the RDS is not so aligned.

[caporider]

Being a secondary optic designed for close-range engagement (i.e. when your primary is dialed-out with a high magnification), what is the maximum yardage do you guys foresee this offset mount will be used for? ~300?

What happens with mechanical offset at close range when a non-perpendicular RDS is zeroed at, say, 50 yards? This is the part where I need a diagram.

[Valhalla]

What happens with mechanical offset at close range when a non-perpendicular RDS is zeroed at, say, 50 yards? This is the part where I need a diagram.

If we are still talking windage, then your mechanical offset would be exactly zero. In fact, assuming there is no wind, your windage offset would be zero regardless of what distance you zero at, and whatever distance you are shooting at. Now if there is wind and you are shooting 600 yards out and you decided to adjust windage on the optic to compensate (instead of hold-over / Kentucky-windage style), then yes you would need a diagram or some pre-calculated reference table for a non-perpendicular RDS. But I have never seen someone adjust a red dot from shot-to-shot for windage compensation...

Maybe I am missing something here, but I just can't wrap my brain around what the problem would be?

[MegademiC]

Yep, the issue is whether the optic is perpendicular to the bore. Zeroing and offsets are a pain when the RDS is not so aligned.

Why would it not be perpendicular? There is some machining tolerance, but I dont see why this mount would be different than any other standard or offset mount.

Edit- thinking about it, what is perpendicular to the bore? All that matters is the simulated projection of a dot (“line” of aim?) and the bore. They intersect at some point (your zero). Same as any other rds mount.

[caporider]

Why would it not be perpendicular? There is some machining tolerance, but I dont see why this mount would be different than any other standard or offset mount.

Edit- thinking about it, what is perpendicular to the bore? All that matters is the simulated projection of a dot (“line” of aim?) and the bore. They intersect at some point (your zero). Same as any other rds mount.

If your offset RDS does not intersect the bore axis, you have to perform a bit of magic with windage and elevation adjustments to zero. Then, your windage will be good at your zero distance and increasingly off as you get farther from your zero distance. The dot is not the only thing in play here, it's the entire optic.

[Valhalla]

Ohhhhhh you are talking about zeroing, not compensating for windage AFTER it's been properly zero'ed? Then this is super easy... no offset or mechanical diagrams or even calculations required. Just tilt (and staple) your zero'ing target at the same angle as your sight. Then adjust normally. You will be able to zero it at the exact same speed, without any additional pain, as your primary optic.