Official Account for ValhallaTactical.com. Clever designs for intelligent marksmen.
Official Account for ValhallaTactical.com. Clever designs for intelligent marksmen.
Official Account for ValhallaTactical.com. Clever designs for intelligent marksmen.
Can one of you guys explain what you are talking about further?
Im trying to wrap my head around any issue other than if the mount was not perpendicular to the bore (lets assume it is).
Wouldnt any zero be off (assume practical distance) the same or less than distance of optic from bore?
If we are still talking windage, then your mechanical offset would be exactly zero. In fact, assuming there is no wind, your windage offset would be zero regardless of what distance you zero at, and whatever distance you are shooting at. Now if there is wind and you are shooting 600 yards out and you decided to adjust windage on the optic to compensate (instead of hold-over / Kentucky-windage style), then yes you would need a diagram or some pre-calculated reference table for a non-perpendicular RDS. But I have never seen someone adjust a red dot from shot-to-shot for windage compensation...
Maybe I am missing something here, but I just can't wrap my brain around what the problem would be?
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Why would it not be perpendicular? There is some machining tolerance, but I dont see why this mount would be different than any other standard or offset mount.
Edit- thinking about it, what is perpendicular to the bore? All that matters is the simulated projection of a dot (“line” of aim?) and the bore. They intersect at some point (your zero). Same as any other rds mount.
Last edited by MegademiC; 02-01-20 at 00:09.
If your offset RDS does not intersect the bore axis, you have to perform a bit of magic with windage and elevation adjustments to zero. Then, your windage will be good at your zero distance and increasingly off as you get farther from your zero distance. The dot is not the only thing in play here, it's the entire optic.
Last edited by caporider; 02-01-20 at 00:15.
Scout Rider for the Mongol Hordes
Ohhhhhh you are talking about zeroing, not compensating for windage AFTER it's been properly zero'ed? Then this is super easy... no offset or mechanical diagrams or even calculations required. Just tilt (and staple) your zero'ing target at the same angle as your sight. Then adjust normally. You will be able to zero it at the exact same speed, without any additional pain, as your primary optic.
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