SA RO Elite Operator 9mm - First 600rds

[Hox013]

Thanks for the taking the time to document the entire process. Sucks you weren't impressed with the guns, but great job sharing!

Updates coming soon as well. Picked up 1000rds, did some spring changes, firing pin changed, chamber reamed, new mags. Should be all back and put together Thursday, and hopefully follow up range trip this weekend. Stay tuned

[gaijin]

Was chamber reamed (deepened) or leade lengthened?

Irregardless I’m betting function will be GTG.

[Hox013]

I haven't gotten the barrel back, but I think the service they advertised brought chamber to sammi spec. So it may depend on the barrels original dimensions

[gaijin]

Understood, thanks.

Look forward to your range report.

[Hox013]

UPDATE:

I've installed a Dan Wesson magwell (I like). I also picked up some Wilson/Vickers duty mags and Wilson ETM mags.

I've installed a Wolff 19# mainspring, Wolff extra power firing pin spring, and Dawson Precision steel standard length firing pin.




I sent the barrel off to Patriot Defense in Texas to be reamed. Never heard of them before, but they offered the service through online checkout for a fair price. Quick turn around. I dropped the barrel in the mail 01/30 (Thursday), they received it 02/01 (Saturday). They did the service and shipped it back out to me on 02/04 (Tuesday). I got the barrel back today (Thursday). Ran some patches through it and some yellow cutting oil came out. I ran patches until they came out clean, which was just a few passes.

I tested the same reload that would not chamber before having the barrel reamed, and the same case from my reloads that I pulled the bullet from. Both dropped right in this time.

Before:


After:



I double checked again with Speer Gold Dot, which have always dropped in. They were still good to go.




I cycled the action by hand. My reloads, the Gold Dot, and some Browning FMJ ammo all fed and chambered fine. A second range report is to come, but I'm feeling better about it now that all my available test rounds drop in freely and hand cycle fine.

[gaijin]

Yeah, looks like a tight chamber issue as received.
It should run 100% now, as long as you’re not throwing your shit in the mud. ( :
Glad it’s sorted out.

Curious why you went with a 19# MS.
While lighter MS is frequently SOP on a range/game gun, and can contribute to a bit lighter trigger pull, if you experience FTF/light primer hits I’d put a 21# in the gun.

Overall; well done on problem solving.

[Hox013]

Yeah, looks like a tight chamber issue as received.
It should run 100% now, as long as you’re not throwing your shit in the mud. ( :
Glad it’s sorted out.

Curious why you went with a 19# MS.
While lighter MS is frequently SOP on a range/game gun, and can contribute to a bit lighter trigger pull, if you experience FTF/light primer hits I’d put a 21# in the gun.

Overall; well done on problem solving.

It was recommended to me elsewhere to go 19# spring to help the slide overcome the hammer resistance on recoil, and the steel firing pin would negate light strikes. If I get light strikes, I'll put the original spring back in and explore a 21#. I read the original was 23lbs. I've got 1000rds ready to go for it so we'll soon see. And yes, I'm going to involve less mud if possible Thanks for all your input thus far.

[gaijin]

Slide velocity is primarily controlled by MS and amount of firing pin radius, in addition to recoil spring weight/rating.

The heavier the recoil spring weight, the more your gun “dips” as slide goes back into battery.
The ideal is having a gun that shoots as flat as possible.

With Minor/range loads I use a 9/10# recoil spring, a “Flat Bottom Firing Pin Stop” (reduces mechanical advantage of slide cocking hammer- and was JMBs original design) with a 19# MS.

The Recoil Spring in a 1911 is more accurately a “return to battery” spring.
You need enough RS to strip rd from mag and ensure slide returns to battery.

The amount of magazine spring tension, how tight slide to frame fit and barrel fit/lock up are determining factors of necessary RS weight.

If I’m shooting +P carry ammo exclusively I’ll run a 12# RS and 21#MS to ensure positive function.
A 2# trigger on a carry gun are less a necessity than on a range/game gun for me.

FWIW, nearly all production/semi production guns (1911s) come oversprung.

[Hox013]

Slide velocity is primarily controlled by MS and amount of firing pin radius, in addition to recoil spring weight/rating.

The heavier the recoil spring weight, the more your gun “dips” as slide goes back into battery.
The ideal is having a gun that shoots as flat as possible.

With Minor/range loads I use a 9/10# recoil spring, a “Flat Bottom Firing Pin Stop” (reduces mechanical advantage of slide cocking hammer- and was JMBs original design) with a 19# MS.

The Recoil Spring in a 1911 is more accurately a “return to battery” spring.
You need enough RS to strip rd from mag and ensure slide returns to battery.

The amount of magazine spring tension, how tight slide to frame fit and barrel fit/lock up are determining factors of necessary RS weight.

If I’m shooting +P carry ammo exclusively I’ll run a 12# RS and 21#MS to ensure positive function.
A 2# trigger on a carry gun are less a necessity than on a range/game gun for me.

FWIW, nearly all production/semi production guns (1911s) come oversprung.

I have a 13# Wilson flatwire for the recoil spring. It was also in the gun when I conducted the first range trip. I don't think I want to reduce the slide's mechanical advantage over the hammer, just because I'm more intrested in absolute reliability than getting the flattest shooting gun. I'll see how it runs and go from there. I'm pretty intrested to see how it goes but fingers crossed. The 1000rds I bought for round two was cheap Browning 115gr fmj becasue of a rebate going on.

[Hox013]

UPDATE
500rds flawless rounds today, 18 degrees F. All through Vickers Duty mags and Wilson ETM mags. No failures of any kind, mags all locked back great even though they were icy, never seemed to struggle going into battery. I think I'm good to go.