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Thread: Getting into the suppressor world, am I doing it right?

  1. #1
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    Getting into the suppressor world, am I doing it right?

    Hello,

    Long time lurker on M4Carbine, rarely post, search is my friend. Sorry for the long post.

    I've shot pistols and my AR for many years, I'm not a competitor, mainly fun and home defense. I don't suck, but I don't clear rooms or use my guns for my living. My kids (girls) are getting older and we have started shooting more as a family. My wife has good technique, but she has always been more sound sensitive than recoil sensitive on pistols. Daughters seem to take after her. After a few rounds the flinch gets frustrating for her. On the .22 Buckmark, she's money. She shoots the AR very well out to 100 yards and likes it the best. She likes the pistol better for HD even though I would prefer the AR as the go to. I think I can work on that.

    Recently, I got a friend to take her shooting with his suppressors in .22, 9mm, and 45mm. She loved it and immediately improved her accuracy and speed within minutes. Said the HK45C was her favorite to shoot. Came home jazzed about shooting again and said we need to get some "cans".

    We own:

    HK USP9
    HK USP45
    Noveske 16" Mid-Length Recce Basic, plastic handguard with fixed front sight, H1 on the flattop.
    Winchester Model 70, Extreme Weather, Stainless, 30-06

    I searched and compared sizes and multi use for my needs. I think I decided on:

    1. 2 Threaded Barrells for the HK pistols, drop in and go.
    2. Get the Model 70 threaded 1/2 x 28.
    3. Rugged Obsidian 45 and get another piston and front cap for 9mm
    3. Rugged Radiant 7.62, Get another QD flash suppressor or brake for the AR. Flash or brake?

    Both are modular cans, figured I could see what size and sound levels are best for range vs HD. Looking at noise reduction and weight primarily as my use indicators. Don't want to go too short for the loss in sound reduction, hence the modular choices. I can see long for range days and then make them short for HD. Long or short for hunting with the 30-06, depending on the amount of hiking.

    I usually buy once, cry once. If I'm happy when I bought it, I'm usually still happy, 10 or more years later.

    Are my decisions sound (pun intended)?

    TR

  2. #2
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    Hi Trout,

    First of all, those are not bad choices at all.

    Keep in mind that universal and modular tend to be at the expense of optimal performance, weight and cost.

    The world of suppressors is full of tradeoffs.

    For example, 5.56 suppressors tend to be shorter, lighter and quieter and less expensive but have more back pressure than their 7.62 versions.

    Same goes for 9mm vs 45.

    But these Rugged options do a good job of minimizing the downsides while keeping lots of flexibility

    You'll want to get the 30-06 threaded 5/8-24 with an appropriate muzzle device.

    The Noveske will need a 1/2-28 muzzle device, but the dual taper lock is compatible across calibers.

    The Noveske will also likely benefit from a reduction in gas drive, as the suppressor will increase the already generous gas drive.

    Our EZTUNE Gas Tube use a great choice for addressing that.


    Congrats for jumping in and enjoy the journey.
    Black River Tactical
    BRT OPTIMUM Hammer Forged Chrome Lined Barrels - 11.5", 12.5", 14.5", 16"
    BRT EZTUNE Preset Gas Tubes - PISTOL, CAR, MID, RIFLE
    BRT Bolt Carrier Groups M4A1, M16 CHROME
    BRT Covert Comps 5.56, 6X, 7.62

  3. #3
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    Sounds reasonable. But I would look at getting those as your initial cans and start thinking about a second set, in order to ultimately have a can for each of your 4 guns.
    ETC (SW/AW), USN (1998-2008)
    CVN-65, USS Enterprise

  4. #4
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    That's along the lines of what I did, Sig SRD-45 Can for all pistols .45 and under. Sig SD762TI direct thread for all my .308 and under rifles. With both of these I can shoot everything I own:
    1. .380 ACP
    2. 9mm
    3. .45
    4. .223/5.56
    5. 7.62X39
    6. 300 Blackout
    7. .308


    Having said that, looking for a .22 can (Q Erector) to round it out, because lead and cleaning should have it's own can IMHO. FWIW not sure if this is right, but cost effective, easy and fun.

  5. #5
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    Make sure the model 70’s barrel O.D. at the muzzle is large enough to be threaded 5/8-24 and still have enough of a shoulder on which to mount the can- otherwise you’ll risk baffle strikes. I’d be surprised if a factory Winchester 30-06 would allow for this.

    My first two cans were of the modular variety- a Silencerco Omega and Saker-K. I’ve found that switching configurations on suppressors is not worth the hassle and would rather just get a can for each purpose. I’ve never used any of Rugged’s products bu they seem to have good reviews so I’m sure they’ll serve you well if you decide on that route
    Last edited by gunnerblue; 02-04-20 at 19:52.

  6. #6
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Clint View Post
    Hi Trout,

    For example, 5.56 suppressors tend to be shorter, lighter and quieter and less expensive but have more back pressure than their 7.62 versions.

    Same goes for 9mm vs 45.

    But these Rugged options do a good job of minimizing the downsides while keeping lots of flexibility

    You'll want to get the 30-06 threaded 5/8-24 with an appropriate muzzle device.

    The Noveske will need a 1/2-28 muzzle device, but the dual taper lock is compatible across calibers.

    The Noveske will also likely benefit from a reduction in gas drive, as the suppressor will increase the already generous gas drive.

    Our EZTUNE Gas Tube use a great choice for addressing that.


    Congrats for jumping in and enjoy the journey.
    Yes, I feel that a lot of my options are to balance the tradeoffs.
    Good call on the 5/8-24, I double checked and the Radiant 7.62 comes with a 5/8-24 muzzle device, I can get the 1/2-28 muzzle device as the add on.
    I had not thought of overgassing, will need to research that. Thanks for the EZTUNE options.

    Quote Originally Posted by hotrodder636 View Post
    Sounds reasonable. But I would look at getting those as your initial cans and start thinking about a second set, in order to ultimately have a can for each of your 4 guns.
    Good idea. I think I need to use them to know my own personal pros and cons.

    Quote Originally Posted by ndmiller View Post
    That's along the lines of what I did, Sig SRD-45 Can for all pistols .45 and under. Sig SD762TI direct thread for all my .308 and under rifles. With both of these I can shoot everything I own:
    1. .380 ACP
    2. 9mm
    3. .45
    4. .223/5.56
    5. 7.62X39
    6. 300 Blackout
    7. .308


    Having said that, looking for a .22 can (Q Erector) to round it out, because lead and cleaning should have it's own can IMHO. FWIW not sure if this is right, but cost effective, easy and fun.
    This was how I was thinking. I have time to move things around and modify the sizes, pistons, and endcaps.

    Quote Originally Posted by gunnerblue View Post
    Make sure the model 70’s barrel O.D. at the muzzle is large enough to be threaded 5/8-24 and still have enough of a shoulder on which to mount the can- otherwise you’ll risk baffle strikes. I’d be surprised if a factory Winchester 30-06 would allow for this.

    My first two cans were of the modular variety- a Silencerco Omega and Saker-K. I’ve found that switching configurations on suppressors is not worth the hassle and would rather just get a can for each purpose. I’ve never used any of Rugged’s products bu they seem to have good reviews so I’m sure they’ll serve you well if you decide on that route
    I just measured the end of my M70, slight taper from the end of the flutes to the barrel end. 0.635-0.625 inches, going down over 1.5 inches. I'm not a machinist, but this sounds like it might not take the 5/8 since the very end is only 5/8". Not sure how threads are measured, from the peaks or the valleys?

    Good call, if this doesn't work, I can focus on a 5.56 can and not try to include the M70.

  7. #7
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    I was searching for needed shoulder and thread size. Looks like many like at least a 0.030 shoulder, so adding 0.060 to the necessary 0.625 means it would be best to have a 0.685 or larger barrel to start with.

    I might need to focus on the 5.56 barrel and not on the 30-06 hunting gun.

  8. #8
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    Threading the M70 in 1/2x28 is not necessarily a deal breaker. There are companies that make 1/2x28 mounts that pass a .30 or larger bullet for this reason. Alternatively a gunsmith can bore a muzzle device larger. Check Rugged’s site or shoot them an e-mail. They’ve probably already thought of this. If not, consider Dead Air, or any with 1.375”x24 “Omega thread” mount modularity.
    RLTW

    Former Action Guy
    Disclosure: I am affiliated PRN with a tactical training center, but I speak only for myself. I have no idea what we sell, other than CLP and training. I receive no income from sale of hard goods.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1168 View Post
    Threading the M70 in 1/2x28 is not necessarily a deal breaker. There are companies that make 1/2x28 mounts that pass a .30 or larger bullet for this reason. Alternatively a gunsmith can bore a muzzle device larger. Check Rugged’s site or shoot them an e-mail. They’ve probably already thought of this. If not, consider Dead Air, or any with 1.375”x24 “Omega thread” mount modularity.
    The benefit of the difference in barrel threading size would be if the can is used on 5.56 and 7.62 with interchangeable mounts and front end caps (exit diameter), it gives you the opportunity to ensure both the front and rear parts of the can have been properly swapped out...otherwise sending a 7.62 bullet through the 5.56 end cap tends to cause you to buy a new end cap.

  10. #10
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    I have a Rugged Obsidian 45 but didn’t bother with the 9mm cap. It wouldn’t hurt (unless you forget to take it off and shoot your 45 of course) but not necessary. It’s a great can though and I’d buy more Rugged products.

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