Can bobbing a hammer cause problems?

[Ron3]

Just curious.

Sometimes I see a revolver I want but wish the hammer was bobbed. (Charter .44 maybe) I think I could do it myself but dont want to create a light-strike or other problem.

Can it?

[RugerMKII]

I bobbed the hammer of my Charter Arms undercover back in 1985. So far no issues. Also took one coil off of the mainspring. I just cut enough off so it would slide in and out of my pocket. Mine sits proud of the frame but I'm okay with that. It's a CA and I'm not worried about how it looks. I just need it to go bang. If you have a newer CA you can buy a bobbed hammer from their website.

[T2C]

In 1988, I bobbed the hammer on a S&W Model 60 and I haven't had any issues, including shooting ammunition with hard primers. The only issues I have seen over the years are when someone removes mass from the hammer and installs a hammer spring that is too light.

Don't remove any more material than need be if you decide to bob the hammer on your wheel gun. Try to get a look at one that has already been bobbed, so you have an idea of just how much material you can get away with removing. If you are not mechanically inclined, a good gunsmith should be able to bob a hammer without any problems.

[glocktogo]

Bobbing a DA revolver hammer will usually improve ignition reliability rather than degrade it. On the competition side I've seen hammers shaved down pretty thin. I've gone all the way down to 5# DAO with 100% reliability on Federal primers (firing pin work involved there) and 8# (stock firing pin profile, but polished tip) that was 100% reliable on anything, including Russian sourced heavy metal free primers.

If you're just wanting to remove the spur for a snag free draw you should be good to go.

[Ron3]

Bobbing a DA revolver hammer will usually improve ignition reliability rather than degrade it. On the competition side I've seen hammers shaved down pretty thin. I've gone all the way down to 5# DAO with 100% reliability on Federal primers (firing pin work involved there) and 8# (stock firing pin profile, but polished tip) that was 100% reliable on anything, including Russian sourced heavy metal free primers.

If you're just wanting to remove the spur for a snag free draw you should be good to go.

Yea, for that and greater comfort if carried AIWB. Such as the GP100 .44 I have back. Just something I've been kicking around.

[ndmiller]

Maybe grab an extra hammer just in case the bobbed one causes problems?

[glocktogo]

Yea, for that and greater comfort if carried AIWB. Such as the GP100 .44 I have back. Just something I've been kicking around.

I've had a couple of GP's and you should have PLENTY of room to work on those without issue.

[Ron3]

Thanks!

[Ron3]

Damn that's some mighty fine work!

[Steve_in_Allentown]

Damn that's some mighty fine work!

Thanks. Sometimes the Dremel devil just won't let me stop.

The reason for removing all the metal was to lighten the hammer so that it would fall faster. This combined with the internal polishing allowed for the use of lighter springs.