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Thread: Tape, Webbing, Tubular Webbing+ materials = what is the difference and uses?

  1. #11
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    If you load that webbing just be prepared to not get the knot out. The tubing is a bit more forgiving.

    Not sure what you are going to make but ripstopbytheroll.com is a good site too. Mostly high tech material.

    If weight is a concern and you can do what you need to do with rope basically. Look at Dyneema. Very strong and lots of vids on youtube showing how to make adjustable slings, shackles, etc.. Not a rifle sling more like hammock adjusters.

    Also again not sure what you are doing but look to YT and search MuleTape + Hammock

    You can make a complete hammock hanging system out of 7/64" dyneema.

    The other good thing about that tube webbing that may not be obvious. A couple wraps around a tree and it just stays there. Use the proper knot or what have you on the ends and when you take it down it just falls right apart but otherwise very strong, stationary, quick and easy.

    All the tube stuff I have is also typically less abrasive than most webbing.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tb-av View Post
    The other good thing about that tube webbing that may not be obvious. A couple wraps around a tree and it just stays there. Use the proper knot or what have you on the ends and when you take it down it just falls right apart but otherwise very strong, stationary, quick and easy.
    I got a roll of the pictured tubular primarily as a tie off point for trees and may have used it as step loops for Prussik/Klemheist rigs also.


    Think the webbing knot I learned is a water knot.

  3. #13
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    Wow, thanks guys. This is just my usual gear OCD compiled with my- "If it only...." compounded with my "would it work here...". Rifle slings led me to my briefcase sling needed some better adjustability.

    A holster for a Sig X5 226 lead to a Kydex fetish that ended with me making Kydex holsters and mag holders for my sons Nerf guns for a friends NERF WAR B-day party.

    Now I have three 3D printers, that I've already used to make some sliders and buckles...

    Sewing. Not something I had thought of....
    The Second Amendment ACKNOWLEDGES our right to own and bear arms that are in common use that can be used for lawful purposes. The arms can be restricted ONLY if subject to historical analogue from the founding era or is dangerous (unsafe) AND unusual.

    It's that simple.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travelingchild View Post
    True, depends on how far the OP wishes to take this.

    My Statement comes from my experience working for Parachute manufacturer, branching off to make all my own gear, (this was along time ago).

    This evolved into Custom Sewn gear for clients, Including Ski Guide, Patrollers, prototyping for various Major Manufactures, Also Modifying or custom building Load bearing Climbing gear for Clients. With the appropriate destructive testing & strength ratings. I still have former clients from around the US asking me to customize or build stuff.

    You'd be amazed what some people try to use a sling for or the wrong webbing in general.

    I agree that for Personal use projects a home machine will suffice. If that's all the OP wishes to do.
    Your experience far outweighs my homebrew gear making. And I wasn’t saying you were wrong btw, more just using a sledgehammer instead of plain ol hammer to drive a nail. Looks like we’re on the same page


    Quote Originally Posted by sinister View Post
    A simple (old) straight-stitch industrial (with real steel gears and a motor that can push start your car) can take you a long, long way.

    Check your local craigslist for industrial sewing machines. A Singer 31-15 or Consew 18 can do maybe 90% of what you want to do for simple gear. I got mine for around $350. I just saw one for $150, complete with table, but it was only listed for a few days at that price.
    This would be the next step up if I ever plan on doing multiple heavier duty cordura projects.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ironman8 View Post
    ..... more just using a sledgehammer instead of plain ol hammer to drive a nail. Looks like we’re on the same page
    Yup Same Page,

    Except in that world I've used machines that have needles the size of 8 penny nails or larger and wouldn't skip a beat going through your hand if you got distracted.

    Nothing like almost sewing your hand to a couple layers of thick webbing to make you pay attention to the task at hand.

    That's a sledgehammer..

  6. #16
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    I use an old PAFF 332 for all my webbing & gear sewing. Think I gave $20 for it off Craigslist years ago.

    The main point of tubular webbing is to be knotable (and to be able to untie it after loading). I use to be in the tree care industry and made or customized a lot of gear, if you don't absolutely require tubular webbing for its strength / knotability avoid it for making gear!

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coyote bulldozer View Post
    I use an old PAFF 332 for all my webbing & gear sewing. Think I gave $20 for it off Craigslist years ago.

    The main point of tubular webbing is to be knotable (and to be able to untie it after loading). I use to be in the tree care industry and made or customized a lot of gear, if you don't absolutely require tubular webbing for its strength / knotability avoid it for making gear!
    What is the downside of the tubular?
    The Second Amendment ACKNOWLEDGES our right to own and bear arms that are in common use that can be used for lawful purposes. The arms can be restricted ONLY if subject to historical analogue from the founding era or is dangerous (unsafe) AND unusual.

    It's that simple.

  8. #18
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    The weight for one.

    Just buy 20' and it will be obvious to you. You will either invent a need or realize it's not necessary.

    It's like high strength cooked bucatini.

    It's good but you need to bring the sauce.

  9. #19
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    It's WAY easier to pluck strands (and is then more messed up when a strand is plucked). Also it twists and doesn't lay flat unless you run a stitch the entire length of it down its center.

  10. #20
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    I just looked at the tubing I have here and sure enough it has three stitches down the entire length. I always assumed it was just decorative. 3 down the middle about a 1/4" apart centered. It has always felt a lot more quality than the other I had. It does indeed lay flat.

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