As one who has shot and competed with revolvers for years please consider these cautionary notes.
1. Buying an older used handgun that is not longer manufactured or supported by the manufacturer can be problematic. Older Smith revolvers are no longer supported by S&W. However, there are millions of older Smiths and aftermarket internal parts which makes it less risky. Ruger no long supports the Security Six line so no new parts are available.
2. Fixed sighted revolvers can be problematic in terms of point of aim vs point of impact depending on the load, etc.
3. Revolvers do break and sometimes exhibit wear issues.
For those experienced with revolvers who buy used revolvers, they know the ups and downs, how to regulate sights, etc. However, for neophytes like myself 30 years ago, it was an expensive, long, frustrating but ultimately rewarding journey.
For me, a Ruger GP or SP would be the top choice: No external locks, ability to completely disassemble and clean the revolver without special tools, knowledge, etc., and Ruger support. If it doesn't shoot to POA, then they will regulate the sights (within reason). Ruger warranty is like long term maintenance policy: e.g., frame stretches after thousands of rounds--they either adjust/shim the cylinder or replace the gun. Smith also has a great warranty and they pay the shipping both ways!
Not disagreeing with anything in particular just that 99.999999% of guns don't actually see any serious use. Not even those well worn police guns. They're mostly worn from riding in holsters.
Last few classes I used a 1932 Colt Official Police that looked like it was the only primary arm in Stalingrad, for both sides, but functioned like it was just made
A point well taken. I've never broken a revolver or worn one out but I have had one jam up due to dirty reloads. I would not hesitate to buy a new Ruger especially the competition version of the GP. I would not buy the 7 shot version of the GP as it does not work with certain brands of brass.
A few years back I bought a new made Smith M67 and it shot so far right I couldn't get the rear sight over far enough to center my groups. The shop did stand behind it and took it back. He asked if I wanted them to send it back to Smith and I said I'd rather have my money back. The barrel was clocked.
So easy to miss that. If there's something a first time revolver buyer misses in their inspection before completing the transfer you're on your own finding a gunsmith that can fix it. (Not to mention shipping costs.)
There are still plenty of pre-lock, post-MIM Tomkins era (1997-2002) revolvers out there that are new enough that S&W will still service them but old enough to have been made right.
I just sold one like that, a 2000 or 2001 year model 10-11, for $300. There's a 1999-ish 66-5 on gunbroker that's been there forever at $795. Of course the K magnums are more expensive than the .38s. If you keep an eye on gunbroker they pop up on a semi-regular basis. The frame lug and lack of a firing pin hole on the hammer are giveaways that the pre-lock model you're looking at is post-mim.
True but the key words there are USPSA, IDPA and 2K. Again, most guns, revolvers or otherwise, don't see 2k and aren't in competitions
My dad would be a better example of the avg handgun owner. Back maybe 20 years ago he bought a HK USP40 as his first gun. He still has the original box of ammo he bought with it
Last edited by Arik; 05-09-20 at 08:07.
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