Quote Originally Posted by Dorsai View Post
The thread on the 1301 is over 400 pages on Pistol-Forums, LOL. I read more than I post, but this is a copy of a recent post I made there. With regards to the recoil, I haven't shot shotguns for years, so my memories are suspect. What I did notice was the Haught push-pull technique really works. A very distinct lighter perceived recoil. I had a limited amount of Flightcontrol 9 pellet ammo and the pattern density was amazing. At 15 yards the pattern was a single 1.5" hole with 1 or 2 flyers stretching the pattern by an inch or two. #4 Buck was a 10 in pattern. Federal Premium (NOT Flightcontrol) was better than the #4, but nothing that made you say wow. That Flightcontrol stuff is a world changer. Like eating a great Ribeye and not being satisfied with Ramen. So I'm on a couple of lists waiting for the Flightcontrol to come back in stock.

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Most of my mods are ones that others have already done. The Nordic magazine extension and clamp with QD Mount and Pic rail, and ESSTAC shell card. The light is an Olight PL-PRO that I posted earlier but from a different angle so you can see how much it sticks out to the side, and how close the bezel is to the muzzle. The other modification is addition of a QD cup to the left side of the buttstock. Honestly, that was the toughest part to install. It is an Impact Weapons Components Mount-N-Slot Direct Attach Mount. First, locate where in the stock you want to drill a hole. I did a starter, smaller hole as a guide for the 1/2" dia hole needed by the mount. Removing the stock from the gun was simple. Thin phillips head screwdriver to remove the buttpad and an 11mm (I think it was 11, not the always lost 10mm) socket to remove the nut keeping it all together. The mount has a flange with two set screws to push against the inside of the stock. There is a split ring that goes into a groove on the outside of the socket that when completed, presses against the outside surface of the stock. So the cup itself is held by the tension between the two set screws on the inside pushing against the stock, and the split ring on the outside opposing the set screws. I did not consider the length of my allen wrench before selecting the location of the mount and drilling my hole. Keep in mind that you do not have complete access to the entire inside of the stock. There is actually only a small rectangular opening from the rear. Because it was very difficult to get the wrench into the set screws and then only being able to turn them maybe 10 degrees of rotation, I abandoned the instructions, tightened the screws in the flange to a depth that allowed just enough room to get the split ring in the groove on the outside. Then I did a little wrenching on the set screws. I had to hold the wrench with a pair of needle nose pliers and then fish around to get it in the set screw socket. Keep that in mind if you want to do this yourself.

I tried a Holosun 503 on the optic rail and it proved the value of the Aridus CROM. It is just too high. So I have a CROM on back order. A Pro-style lifter is on my list of things to get, and maybe a match-saver.
What adhesive did you use for your shell cards? I ordered the 7 rnd Esstac versions and it looks like it "just fits", compared to the 6 rnd card. What was your reasoning for that one?

It looks good and for what it's worth I also bought the OD green version.