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Thread: Beretta 1301 Tactical - Updated

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Feedback Score
    21 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Dorsai View Post
    The thread on the 1301 is over 400 pages on Pistol-Forums, LOL. I read more than I post, but this is a copy of a recent post I made there. With regards to the recoil, I haven't shot shotguns for years, so my memories are suspect. What I did notice was the Haught push-pull technique really works. A very distinct lighter perceived recoil. I had a limited amount of Flightcontrol 9 pellet ammo and the pattern density was amazing. At 15 yards the pattern was a single 1.5" hole with 1 or 2 flyers stretching the pattern by an inch or two. #4 Buck was a 10 in pattern. Federal Premium (NOT Flightcontrol) was better than the #4, but nothing that made you say wow. That Flightcontrol stuff is a world changer. Like eating a great Ribeye and not being satisfied with Ramen. So I'm on a couple of lists waiting for the Flightcontrol to come back in stock.

    Attachment 65967

    Attachment 65968

    Attachment 65969

    Most of my mods are ones that others have already done. The Nordic magazine extension and clamp with QD Mount and Pic rail, and ESSTAC shell card. The light is an Olight PL-PRO that I posted earlier but from a different angle so you can see how much it sticks out to the side, and how close the bezel is to the muzzle. The other modification is addition of a QD cup to the left side of the buttstock. Honestly, that was the toughest part to install. It is an Impact Weapons Components Mount-N-Slot Direct Attach Mount. First, locate where in the stock you want to drill a hole. I did a starter, smaller hole as a guide for the 1/2" dia hole needed by the mount. Removing the stock from the gun was simple. Thin phillips head screwdriver to remove the buttpad and an 11mm (I think it was 11, not the always lost 10mm) socket to remove the nut keeping it all together. The mount has a flange with two set screws to push against the inside of the stock. There is a split ring that goes into a groove on the outside of the socket that when completed, presses against the outside surface of the stock. So the cup itself is held by the tension between the two set screws on the inside pushing against the stock, and the split ring on the outside opposing the set screws. I did not consider the length of my allen wrench before selecting the location of the mount and drilling my hole. Keep in mind that you do not have complete access to the entire inside of the stock. There is actually only a small rectangular opening from the rear. Because it was very difficult to get the wrench into the set screws and then only being able to turn them maybe 10 degrees of rotation, I abandoned the instructions, tightened the screws in the flange to a depth that allowed just enough room to get the split ring in the groove on the outside. Then I did a little wrenching on the set screws. I had to hold the wrench with a pair of needle nose pliers and then fish around to get it in the set screw socket. Keep that in mind if you want to do this yourself.

    I tried a Holosun 503 on the optic rail and it proved the value of the Aridus CROM. It is just too high. So I have a CROM on back order. A Pro-style lifter is on my list of things to get, and maybe a match-saver.
    What adhesive did you use for your shell cards? I ordered the 7 rnd Esstac versions and it looks like it "just fits", compared to the 6 rnd card. What was your reasoning for that one?

    It looks good and for what it's worth I also bought the OD green version.

    Out of every 100 men, ten shouldn't even be there, eighty are just targets. Nine are the real fighters and we are lucky to have them for they make the battle. Ah, but the is a Warrior, and he will bring all the others back.


  2. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Las Vegas, NV
    Feedback Score
    Quote Originally Posted by ap1220 View Post
    What adhesive did you use for your shell cards? I ordered the 7 rnd Esstac versions and it looks like it "just fits", compared to the 6 rnd card. What was your reasoning for that one?

    It looks good and for what it's worth I also bought the OD green version.
    The ESSTAC cards came with a piece of loop velcro with the sticky back. I took a piece of paper and traced the outline of the receiver side since it has curved lines. Then I cut the velcro to match, degreased the side of the receiver with alcohol and stuck it on. I made one mistake and didn't punch a hole for the trigger plate pin. So I'll have to take care of that when I eventually do a detailed strip. I opted for the 6rd card because I thought it fit "better" than the 7rd card. I decided fit was more important than the maximum number of rounds as that requires more care when slapping the card in place.
    I ordered my 1301 on Gunbroker. It was the only one that had a pic of a black gun with green furniture. That was the description as well. The all green is what I got.

    I thought this was a good idea quite a few years ago, and while I was incorrect then, it may be useful now. I picked up a couple of the Blackhawk vests. One with 6 mag pouches, one with shotshell pouches on one side and big pouches on the other. I swapped the panels and created a vest with 3 mag pouches (left side) and the big pouches (right side), and the other with 3 mag pouches (left side) and shotshell pouches (right side). My thought for the latter, then, was 3 gun. I didn't understand 3 gun. Anyway, the cards fit in the mag pouches. I intend to take a class late this year and see how the vest works. Tuck the pouch flap into the pouch and it easily holds a 6 or 7rd card. The exposed velcro on the front will hold another if desired. Since the card is more intended for emergency or quick reloading, I'll use the shotshell pouches for administrative loading, the cards as needed, and swap a fresh card when that is needed. We'll see then if that's a good plan. Not suited for competition.

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