Specific tool to remove ejector roll pin?

[Giggles]

What is the specific part to remove the ejector roll pin, and it’s size? I just need the single tool,

[jsbhike]

Does this help? Or do you mean one of the ejector spring compressor tools like Brownell's sells?

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[titsonritz]

The Ejector Pin is 1/16 x 3/8, a 1/16 pin punch will push it out after the ejector is depressed with a larger punch.

[alx01]

The Ejector Pin is 1/16 x 3/8, a 1/16 pin punch will push it out after the ejector is depressed with a larger punch.

A lot of companies use 1/16x3/8 size and it works. But the TPD spec I've seen listed 1/16x7/16
7/16 is a rare size that's why I suspect most companies just use 3/8.

Calling @lysander to chime on the pin size.

[Giggles]

I appreciate the help from you all.

[Joe Mamma]

Giggles, you should know that with some bolts, the ejector roll pin can only go into and out of one side. It will be obvious if you just take a quick look at your bolt and look at both openings (one opening will look different than the other opening on the one-way design bolts). This is not the case with vast majority of bolts out there, but I thought I should mention it.

Also, the bolts with the one-way openings for ejector pins only take the shorter roll pins, not the longer ones. The longer ones will go in, but they will stick out and can't be used of course.

Joe Mamma

[curious1]

From the manual 3/8" length MS 16562-98.
7/16" length fills the gap more but has to be almost perfectly centered to keep from hanging out one side. 7/16" length is a commonly available size as is the 3/8".
The manual seems to show the charging handle latch pin, forward assist pawl pin, and the pins for the front side sling swivel as odd lengths.

[Giggles]

So I’m just trying to remove the ejector so I can check head space. Can anybody recommend a good set of gauges that don’t require the ejector to be removed.

[Hulkstr8]

So I’m just trying to remove the ejector so I can check head space. Can anybody recommend a good set of gauges that don’t require the ejector to be removed.

School of the American Rifle (SOTAR) but they are custom made. I would just get a Sinclair bolt vise tool and go for it.

[mark5pt56]

The ejector tool is nice to have if working on a lot of guns. There's 100's of ways to hold, manipulate, etc the bolt, punch and whatever is used to compress the ejector. If you don't want To buy the tool, use an empty case to hook into the extractor and compress the ejector by rocking the case flat against the bolt face. It helps to have the bolt tail secured in a block, you have to hold the bolt, punch and case with one hand. While it sounds hard, it isn't If you have. scrap piece of hardwood or plywood, cut a shallow channel with a saw, typically the blade will be the same width as a bolt lug. Set the bolt into the channel and position it as if you where going to drive the ejector pin out and note that spot. Drill the a 1/8" hole there so the pin "has a place to go" Crude but it helps. You can also use the cam pin to compress it.
Like I said, 100's of ways to do it.

What you need is a spare pin-get a few and the roll pin holder and starter punches, otherwise you may end up peening the pin as you drive it in.

Oh-tips
once you drive the pin out, KEEP THE PUNCH IN THE BOLT!. Place the bolt face against the table top and then remove the punch
Note the correct ejector position in the bolt
Make sure you check for the alignment by compressing the ejector and placing the punch through as a slave pin, otherwise you will try to make a new hole through the ejector and peen the pin and more than likely bend the punch
Make sure the pin is fully seated before you remove whatever is holding the ejector compressed.
Some like to compress the ejector, place a slave pin in, leaving a small portion of the pin hole exposed to place the roll pin in and then drive it through.

One version if you are cheap, this uses the empty case
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod80260.aspx

Better one
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod18759.aspx