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Thread: Leading

  1. #1
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    Leading

    Was out shooting my S&W 29 with some 300gr TC midrange lead reloads I cooked up. I think they were a bit soft. Probably doing about 950 fps. Anyway, I got some leading. Got 99% out of the barrel with the hydrogen peroxide/white vinegar solution. The cylinder mouths took some elbow grease. Got most of it but some remained. Anyone got any new or unique methods for lead removal?

  2. #2
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    Chore boy copper pads. Make sure they are all copper, not coated. Snip a couple of strands and wrap them around a bore brush (preferably one that is worn or slightly undersized). This is a similar concept to the Lewis Lead Remover and works quite well.

    950 isn't very fast. Do you know the hardness? My concern would be proper fit more than hardness at those speeds.

    Edited to add:
    The chore boy method has always worked well enough that I do not use harsh chemicals for lead. Ever. The stuff just pulls right out. Be careful what you get on the bluing of your M29.
    Last edited by Chubbs103; 05-03-20 at 01:13.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chubbs103 View Post
    Chore boy copper pads. Make sure they are all copper, not coated. Snip a couple of strands and wrap them around a bore brush (preferably one that is worn or slightly undersized). This is a similar concept to the Lewis Lead Remover and works quite well.

    950 isn't very fast. Do you know the hardness? My concern would be proper fit more than hardness at those speeds.

    Edited to add:
    The chore boy method has always worked well enough that I do not use harsh chemicals for lead. Ever. The stuff just pulls right out. Be careful what you get on the bluing of your M29.
    That's right, I forgot about the Chore Boy method. I actually use CB to clean my shot gun barrel of wadding plastic.

    I've had these bullets for a long time. I don't remember who I got them from or their hardness. They measure a pretty consistent .428. I haven't slugged my barrel or the cylinder mouths...may be time to finally do that. When these are gone, I'll be switching to something like a Missouri Bullets 240 gr RNFP at Brinell 18. I think I'm going to stay away from the real heavies from now on, and stick to 200 gr in 44 special and 240 gr in 44 mag mid range loads.

    Yeah the chemical method isn't probably optimum. It's a bit of a hassle too. Mixing and plugging and repeating. Really can't do the cylinders either.

  4. #4
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    Make sure your Chore Boy is 100% copper. The stuff at the grocery store was copper coated steel. I had to go online for the real stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Uni-Vibe View Post
    Make sure your Chore Boy is 100% copper. The stuff at the grocery store was copper coated steel. I had to go online for the real stuff.
    I will.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Uni-Vibe View Post
    Make sure your Chore Boy is 100% copper. The stuff at the grocery store was copper coated steel. I had to go online for the real stuff.
    For what it's worth, in a pinch, you can also find them at any gas station in the ghetto. Chore Boy pads are the de facto crack pipe filter of choice.

  7. #7
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    Per Chubbs; measure chamber throats (pin gauge or drill bits that fit precisely- lacking pin gauge).

    Your issue sounds like the classic case of under or oversize throats, resulting in bullets not obturating/"slugging up" to seal bore (this permits "blow by", or gas cutting of bullet base which will leave lead deposits in barrel). Additionally accuracy will be sub-standard or suck.

    It is NOT uncommon for S&W m29's to have undersize (.426 to .428") chamber throats. This was an engineering "fix" to shoot jacketed bullets more consistently. (S&W is known to have throat diameters all over the map in both .44 mag and .45 Colt.)

    This is problematic for cast bullets.

    An undersize throat will swage bullet to chamber throat size (.426-.428"), the gas pressure on bullet base must then "slug up" base of bullet to obturate, or seal, the .429/.430"" bore.
    If it doesn't obturate, you get gas "blow by"/cutting, which results in moderate to severe leading.

    Oversize throats (which were common in the m25's in the day) result in the same issue, but because the cast bullet diameter is too small to begin with.

    I have found that recent manufacture m629's and m625's to consistently have tight, or undersize chamber throats.
    After discussing this at length with S&W reps- to no satisfaction, I simply purchased (Manson) throat reamers and opened throats to appropriate size for the cast bullets I intended to shoot; i.e. .431" in .44 magnum.

    Your chamber throat should be same diameter as bullet, which should be one thousandth over bore diameter.

    I typically run a 300 gr. WFNGC in .431" or 255 gr Keith Type GCSWC .431" at 1,000 to 1,100 FPS from my 629 (or 625-.45 Colt) MG's.
    These Gas Check bullets generally "scrape" any minor, residual leading from the the bore, and both will shoot through a 300# hog in addition to being exceptionally accurate.
    I'll add that a gas check is not necessary if throats are sized properly, and bullet diameter, Brinnell/"hardness" are compatible.

    (Commercially cast bullets are very frequently cast TOO HARD to allow obturation at the pressures they are being shot. Hard cast bullets look "prettier".)

    I use Montana Bullet Works and a couple others when ordering cast bullets for hunting. Check this link and you'll see there is option for diameter(s). I have no affiliation with them.
    https://www.montanabulletworks.com/p...thentic-keith/

    Brian Pearce (Handloader Magazine) is not the typical, dumb ass shill, gun rag writer.
    He actually knows what he's talking about, as he is a shooter/handloader first, a writer second.
    If you're really interested in learning how to make your S&W shoot cast bullets accurately, without leading, you would be well advised to read what you can find that he has printed on cast bullets/chamber throat sizing.

    I had a "period" where I was a bit obsessed over this, as I was a dedicated handgun hunter- with a preference for 4" S&W's/"Mountain Guns".
    I learned a great deal on cast bullet loading/shooting, so I guess it was worth it.

    It is easier of course, to just shoot Jacketed bullets.
    A true "Gun Guy" (or gal) should have familiarity and a modicum of proficiency with most all firearms platforms.

  8. #8
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    Good info in that post. I'm going to work on slugging the barrel and cylinders, to get a better idea where to go in the future. Montana bullet works has some nice stuff, that's for sure. It's just a wee bit too pricey for what I'm doing. Thanks.

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    I think gaijin is on point...If you find and correct your bullet fit issue, I think the leading problem will go away.

    For removal, I'll second the Chore Boy recommendation. It cuts it out pretty quick.

    Be careful with the peroxide/vinegar solution. Lead acetate is pretty toxic and the whole mess should be disposed of as hazmat when you're done. (you might already know this, but others may not...)

  10. #10
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    One more thing...If you find that your throats are undersized, there's a fella called Doug Guy over on Cast Boolits forum that has precision honing equipment to open them up correctly. I've had him do three cylinders for me over the last couple years...He's quick, inexpensive, and does really nice work.

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