Porting a Suppressor ?

[Pappabear]

I have seen where KAC is making reduced blowback cans, and I shot an OSS Helix the other day and I was impressed.

My question: is it possible to simple drill holes in a homemade can and achieve some of this "reduced blowback effect". May not be Knights or OSS effect, but is it possible for it to help. Or is there much more to the geometry than just holes?

PB

[Clint]

Extra end cap holes may help slightly, but most/all of the commercial "low back pressure" suppressors use some sort of coaxial bypass design in the main body.

Those features are not impossible to duplicate in a F1 can, but you'd need to be a machining Rock Star or have access to an industrial quality laser sintering 3d printer.

[Pappabear]

Extra end cap holes may help slightly, but most/all of the commercial "low back pressure" suppressors use some sort of coaxial bypass design in the main body.

Those features are not impossible to duplicate in a F1 can, but you'd need to be a machining Rock Star or have access to an industrial quality laser sintering 3d printer.

Thanks, Ill send mine right to you

PB

[1168]

Some google terms for your research pleasure: vent holes, weep holes, mouse holes, clipping, , double clip, symetrical clip, omega baffle. Add “silencer” or “form 1” to those to get results.

Also do google image searches of blast baffles, and look at some of your form 4 cans. The Turbo K and NT4 use highly ventilated, flatish blast baffles. I think this is to balance backpressure with other factors. The Surefire has 4 holes in the blast baffle, which has the same or similar form factor as the rest of its baffles. I don’t know how many are “internally vented” like this.

Take note that YHM spaces baffles out further and consequently uses less of them on the Turbo vs Resonator. I suspect thats to help with gassy AR’s.

Omega, Chimera, Rex Silentium MG series, and iwannasay Sandman, there’s probably more, use a baffle shape and clip style that looks like a keyhole looking down the bore, and the edge of the bore at the flat face of the baffle kinda looks like the Greek Omega.

Keep in mind, you can drill any bore you want on your form one, as even a 3/8” bore will pass a .30 bullet.

Just some observations. I’m no engineer.

[Clint]

Yes, of course the easiest way to lower the pressure is use a .360 or .375 bore, even for 556 applications.

This size is what many commercial 308 cans use.

Keep in mind, you can drill any bore you want on your form one, as even a 3/8” bore will pass a .30 bullet.

[Pappabear]

I agree, I can tell you I don't notice much sound difference in using a 338 can on a 308 or 300WM vs the exact can for caliber. I plan to drill it a bit opened up for 30 cal and plan to run on 6.5.

PB