Streamlight TLR-7A observations.

[crosseyedshooter]

I bought a Streamlight TLR-7A and wanted to share some observations. I'm just an everyday guy without any special training, so take it for what it's worth.

Specs can be found on Streamlight's webpage.

I got the FLEX version which comes with the "high" switch installed and a "low" switch option to swap, if desired. After mounting the light, I can't see the need for the "low" option and suspect Streamlight will do away with it altogether in the future. Based on the shape and location of the serrations, both switches are designed to be pressed downwards for activation. However, the switch also allows for push-forward activation.



The downwards activation feels most natural for my support-hand thumb while the forwards activation feels most natural for my trigger finger. The switches are ambidextrous and function identically on either side of the light. A long press activates the light in momentary mode while a short press is constant-on. There's also a strobe option that's disabled by default and can be enabled with Streamlight's "TEN-TAP" programming. I almost wish that constant-on could also be disabled, as my rifle lights are momentary-only.

Compared to my unboxing experience with Surefire's XC1, I'm impressed with the level of detail and options included in the TLR-7A package. There are six rail keys to fine-tune the position of the light; two for "universal" pistol slots and four for 1913 slots. The default -1 pushes the light the farthest back towards the trigger. If we reference that as position 0, then (approximately):

UNIV-1 = 0mm
UNIV-2 = +5mm
1913-1 = 0mm
1913-2 = +2mm
1913-3 = +7mm
1913-4 = +10mm


Streamlight provides a Compatibility List with rail key recommendations but I found at least one Youtube review that didn't agree with it.

Here are some photos of the light test-fitted to various pistols.

M&P9, UNIV-1:


PPQ, UNIV-1:


P99, UNIV-2:


P226, UNIV-1:


1911, UNIV-1, noticeable shadowing:


Obviously, this light was designed for compact pistols so it had significant shadowing on the 1911, but I didn't notice shadowing on the P226. For me, mounting the light all the way back towards the trigger with the -1 key crowded the trigger guard, so I ended up choosing the 1913-2 key for my application. Once you choose your rail key, you can install a provided e-clip using the included tool to capture the thumbscrew. This prevents tool-less rail key changes but also prevents losing the thumbscrew.

Oh, and if it matters to anyone, the package says "Assembled in the USA of U.S. and Foreign Parts." I have no idea what that means. I think Streamlight has addressed the complaints against the TLR-7 and this light is representative of the design direction they're headed (TLR-8A, TLR-9, TLR-RM1, TLR-RM2).