Deck Oil

[shadowrider]

If it has an oil based finish on it now an oil based stain will work like your Australian Timber oil which isn't a bad choice for a big box store product. Just a good pressure washing and letting it get totally dry is all you should really need for prep. The suggestion of Penofin is a good choice and may hold up longer. I've not used it but General Finishes' Outdoor Oil I suspect would be good. I've had outstanding luck with some of their other products and their products are almost universally loved in the woodworking community and considered top tier.

Personally I think the oil stains look the best but there are none out there that will last. The more opaque it is the better durability you'll get. Oils are always going to be a 1 to 3 year maintenance requirement. Painting it will last longer but doesn't look as good IMO, I like to see the grain.

[Boy Scout]

I have a small front deck that’s green treated timber, that’s now a year old and presumably dry. I’m stripping my back deck as we speak and will be needing to put a protective finish on it as well when it’s completed and dry.

What’s recommended for noob DIY finisher? What’s the (quick) difference between an oil and a stain?

And does the joist tape work as advertised?

[signal4l]

I've been doing battle with the same deck for 20 years. I tried a variety of different stains. None of them last more than two or three years at best. They start to fade after two seasons in the Chicago area weather. The problem has always been reapplication. You can't get new stain through the old stain that remains on the deck. The new stuff will float on top and not stick to the wood.

You need to chemically strip the deck or sand it to remove the existing stain. Then apply the new stuff. This is a time-consuming pain in the ass.

The exception is deck oil. It's much like oiling a gun stock. You don't strip the old stuff when you had a new coat. I'm reluctant to use Cabot Australian timber oil. Evidently the formula has changed. Is it is much thicker now than it was in the past. It doesn't penetrate as deeply into the wood.

I'm going to try the Woodrich brand I linked in my previous post.

[THCDDM4]

I have a small front deck that’s green treated timber, that’s now a year old and presumably dry. I’m stripping my back deck as we speak and will be needing to put a protective finish on it as well when it’s completed and dry.

What’s recommended for noob DIY finisher? What’s the (quick) difference between an oil and a stain?

And does the joist tape work as advertised?

Yes, putting grace vycor tape on top of the joists protects them. It is a vapor barrier that also self seals around screws so water doesn't seep into joists causing rot/damage.

[THCDDM4]

As far as stripping and resealing a deck goes, some of the stuff I've had the best results is using "restore a deck" 2 part stripping/brightening and then a TWP "Total wood Preservative" Sealant. TWP 1500 is good stuff.

Cabots is good, Sikkens is good. The TWP tends to last a bit longer in my experience in the harsh Colorado environment.

Sealing a deck is a 1-3 year maintenance program. Do it well with the right product and you can do it every 3 years with ease.

[Boy Scout]

Thanks for the input on my questions as well fellas.

Is a deck oil different than a stain or varnish? Or is it similar to the difference between latex and oil paint? Sorry, that part I’m not picking up on...

[THCDDM4]

Thanks for the input on my questions as well fellas.

Is a deck oil different than a stain or varnish? Or is it similar to the difference between latex and oil paint? Sorry, that part I’m not picking up on...

Basically it’s the difference in what the product is derived from what they do and how they are used.

Oil borne, water borne or advanced waterbased oil alkyds. You also have solvent based and oil/resin based products.

Varnish and lacquer are used as top coats after staining.

Most stains these days are waterborne or advanced waterborne alkyds.

Very few true oil based products are left.

Both have pros and cons.

Oil will penetrate deeper in most cases, and don’t require a top coat- but wear faster on the surface, waterborne stain products will not penetrate as deep but can provide better surface protectant with a proper top coat. Advanced water based alkyds try to do both well.

Stains are mainly pigment with stuff to aid application that evaporates after being applied leaving even pigment behind, then a top coat sealer is required. Some stains are pigment and sealer in one.


It really comes down to the quality of the product, however.

“Thompson’s” anything is total crap.

PPG proprietary products are pretty lame, but they acquired some boutique companies that are very high end and good quality.

Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore products tend to be medium to high grade, Cabbots is medium high grade, penofin is medium high grade, sikkens is high grade, the TWP is high grade, etc.

Lots of poor products out there at low to medium price points, a couple of poor products at high price points and a couple of quality products at high to very high price points.

What may work well in Florida likely won’t perform so well in Colorado. So some shine in different climate regions.

Same with different types of wood. Cedar versus redwood versus pine, etc.

Proper maintenance schedule over time is key. Do it more often than it’s needed and you will maximize the lifecycle and aesthetic of your deck.

If you want a deck that’s close to maintenance free get heat treated ash or Brazilian Ipe (pronounces Epay) You’ll pay for it up front, but both require very minimal top coat oil based sealants every 5 years or so. Very hard wood to work with from a construction standpoint.

The composites are the same, lots of shit and some good stuff, but it all requires replacement and repair over time.

The best composite out there is TimberTek. I’d not even look at anything else.

[Boy Scout]

Lots of great info THCDDM4, thanks for dropping it on a new deck guy. I grew up swinging a hammer with dad and can frame a house and build a deck, but the finer points of woodworking are still works in progress.

I just have a green-treated deck, nothing fancy, and would like to do something to treat it to keep it in decent shape for the next 3-5 years until we move.

[Adrenaline_6]

What about new wood outdoor furniture and a new cedar framed gazebo? Lots of products out there. I was looking at Thompsons crap because I don't know any better...now looking at the TWP and Sikkens stuff, the options have grown. Recommended surface prep on otherwise new furniture for these products looks like a pita also.

[Averageman]

I rebuilding a Cedar and Pressure treated lumber fence and would feel a lot better if when completed I could treat it with a product that will help it last a little longer.
Any ideas?