The Q Cherry bomb and Plan B

[TMS951]

I’ve only ever installed my Trash Panda on my cherry bomb totally dry and hand tight. It’s never been a problem.

But if Q was as perfect as Kevin B thinks he would have used LH threads on the cherry bomb to suppresser

[VIP3R 237]

But if Q was as perfect as Kevin B thinks he would have used LH threads on the cherry bomb to suppresser

And put the tapers behind the threads. I look at my high end Sata and Iwata spray gun fluid nozzles and they have the taper behind the thread in relation to the paint. I’ve also seen more issues with Q cans vs other brands kB trashes. But that’s Part of the NFA game, you can boast and claim anything you want and no one will call you out for it until tax stamps clear in 6 to 9 months.

[themonk]

And put the tapers behind the threads. I look at my high end Sata and Iwata spray gun fluid nozzles and they have the taper behind the thread in relation to the paint. I’ve also seen more issues with Q cans vs other brands kB trashes. But that’s Part of the NFA game, you can boast and claim anything you want and no one will call you out for it until tax stamps clear and 6 to 9 months.

No, you should never do this with a suppressor. Taper in front of the threads to keep carbon away from the threads.

[1168]

No, you should never do this with a suppressor. Taper in front of the threads to keep carbon away from the threads.

I think there are valid arguments for both methods. YHM seems to agree with Q.

[Clint]

What is the benefit of that arrangement?

And put the tapers behind the threads.

In what way are these applications similar?

I look at my high end Sata and Iwata spray gun fluid nozzles and they have the taper behind the thread in relation to the paint.

[VIP3R 237]

Threads seal against the paint from entering the air cap and the tapers are for alignment. Fluid nozzles have to have perfect alignment for the needle or else your spray pattern will be off. Same principle with suppressor mounts, threads seal and the taper aligns and locks the can. When you put tapers first, especially with the cherry bomb, carbon fouling can cause the suppressor to stick as the cherry bomb and the Q cans create a 90° shoulder that carbon builds up and can cause it to stick.

Here’s a photo of one of my muzzle devices that has the taper behind the threads, look how clean the taper is even though it’s seen thousands of rounds. https://www.instagram.com/p/Btzq1yqH...d=xqu6c95sx772

[themonk]

Yea man, that's old tech and Knights will tell you the same thing. Any new QD mount should have the taper in front of the threads.

4k rounds:

[VIP3R 237]

Yea man, that's old tech and Knights will tell you the same thing. Any new QD mount should have the taper in front of the threads.

4k rounds:

That kinda proves my point. Look how dirty your tapers are which is critical as the taper provides the bore alignment.

[themonk]

We tried

[khc3]

Tapers align and seal; threads pull mating tapers together. Threads are not generally thought of as seals. Tapers don't take much mating force to lock up pretty tight. Anyone who's used a Bridgeport with an R8 collet knows you may have to smack the drawbar pretty hard to break the taper's seal.