single stage trigger suggestions

[Dennis]

If you don't have the trigger time yet to fully understand the differences between various trigger types in different situations then I would get a quality standard trigger, coated or not, to start in a SD gun. You can always change it out later as you learn more!

Dennis.

[grizzman]

The two stage trigger design allows for greatly increased sear engagement when the trigger is at rest, compared to a single stage trigger (with equal pressure required to release the hammer).

Taking up the first stage, giving the user a clean break with almost imperceptible trigger movement, has the same end effect as using an excellent single stage. There's simply no initial safety margin with the single stage. Once the trigger moves, the hammer falls.

Taking up the first stage, and expecting to be able to stop at the wall without releasing the hammer, followed by fine tuning the sight picture before taking the shot is okay when shooting for groups from the bench or prone. It is not an effective way to run the gun offhand in most other situations. Pressing through the two stages in one fluid movement is no slower than using a single stage.

....and I fully agree with Dennis. If you can't effectively run a decent mil-spec trigger, then the problem is with you, not the trigger. I've got a few PNTs and one ACT, but in offhand shooting, I see absolutely no difference in the end result.

I have one Timney 4 pound single stage unit. It's much easier installing a PNT or MBT than the Timney, so I see no benefit it it being a cassette...and it's no more crisp than the SSA or MBTs.

[1168]

My thoughts on the ALG ACT and Hiperfire EDT2/Heavygunner are contained here: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...son&highlight=
G and Larue also make single stages now. I’d lean toward pull weights above 4 lbs, personally. There’s a ridiculous amount of acceptable triggers on the market these days.

[JediGuy]

I have three Geissele SSA and one Hiperfire Heavy Gunner triggers. They are all great.
With that said, I also liked the BCM PNT trigger while dry-firing.

[Steved13]

If you don't have the trigger time yet to fully understand the differences between various trigger types in different situations then I would get a quality standard trigger, coated or not, to start in a SD gun. You can always change it out later as you learn more!

Dennis.

The two stage trigger design allows for greatly increased sear engagement when the trigger is at rest, compared to a single stage trigger (with equal pressure required to release the hammer).

Taking up the first stage, giving the user a clean break with almost imperceptible trigger movement, has the same end effect as using an excellent single stage. There's simply no initial safety margin with the single stage. Once the trigger moves, the hammer falls.

Taking up the first stage, and expecting to be able to stop at the wall without releasing the hammer, followed by fine tuning the sight picture before taking the shot is okay when shooting for groups from the bench or prone. It is not an effective way to run the gun offhand in most other situations. Pressing through the two stages in one fluid movement is no slower than using a single stage.

....and I fully agree with Dennis. If you can't effectively run a decent mil-spec trigger, then the problem is with you, not the trigger. I've got a few PNTs and one ACT, but in offhand shooting, I see absolutely no difference in the end result.

Thanks for the feedback, and I apologize if I wasn't clear. I understand the differences between the milspec, 1 stage and 2 stage, and if you check my post above I said something very similar as to staging at the range and not staging in an SD situation. Y thought was/is I would be using different methods at the range than in an SD situation, and usually that isn't desirable...but I think I maybe overthinking that, or something that I see as an issue that others don't.

I can squeeze a double action handgun while staying on target, and the milspec is not an issue in that regard, ut thinking of something a little more fun when at the range.

Since they are not very expencsve I think I may pick up an enhanced "stock trigger" even if it's just to try it for a bit, and then go from there.

[Bluedreaux]

I’ve got a single stage LaRue and it offers nothing that the polished milspec triggers don’t, except a larger price tag.

I’ve used ALG, BCM, and SOLGW and they’re all better or equal to the LaRue.

For a single stage HD gun that’s where I’d look.

[FightinQ]

Geissele Super 3 Gun curved. I have an SSA too. Both are on my HD rifles. My precision rifles have either the SSA-E or LaRue MBT.

#1 Treat all guns as if they are always loaded.
#2 Never let the muzzle cover anything that you are not willing to destroy.
#3 Keep your finger off the trigger until your sights are on target and you have made the decision to shoot.
#4 Be sure of your target and what lies beyond it.

It's really that simple. No fallacy narratives. Keep your finger off of the trigger until you have made a choice to fire, and know how your trigger works beforehand.

[Steve-0-]

Just learn to run a milspec or enhanced milspec trigger that has the coatings, ect. Anything with set screws or requires a wrench to remove has no business in a fighting gun (IE: your firing pin acts as a punch for the hammer/trigger pins) Go practice good trigger manipulation and pull weight is no big deal.

[FightinQ]

If I need to take apart my fighting gun in order to fix it (in the middle of said fighting), then I've already got bigger problems than that and am going to the secondary to finish the fight and will fix afterwards when the threat level has been lowered. You shouldn't be trying to fix your rifle if the trigger breaks in the mid of a gunfight to save your life anyhow.

And pull weights is a very big deal as the clocks don't lie during controlled pairs. It's why I prefer SSA's or the S3G in my fighting rifles.

[Steve-0-]

If I need to take apart my fighting gun in order to fix it (in the middle of said fighting), then I've already got bigger problems than that and am going to the secondary to finish the fight and will fix afterwards when the threat level has been lowered. You shouldn't be trying to fix your rifle if the trigger breaks in the mid of a gunfight to save your life anyhow.

And pull weights is a very big deal as the clocks don't lie during controlled pairs. It's why I prefer SSA's or the S3G in my fighting rifles.

I dont think anyone advocates for taking apart a gun during combat, but not requiring tools is a huge advantage in pulling out blown primers, ect. As for speed, yeah gucci triggers help but pairs are a joke as you should burn a target into the ground with as many shots as it takes. The 2 shot drills set you up for failure. In my opinion of course.