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Thread: Stake em'.

  1. #11
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    I saw Randy Grossman's name on one of the pics and had a flashback.
    - Jeff

    “Every record has been destroyed or falsified, every book rewritten, every picture has been repainted, every statue and street building has been renamed, every date has been altered. And the process is continuing day by day and minute by minute. History has stopped. Nothing exists except an endless present in which the Party is always right.” ― George Orwell, 1984

  2. #12
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    Will liked both the Starret and Mayhew. I still have the text where I asked him what he used, he said Mayhew. We couldn't get Starret at a reasonable cost, so we carry Mayhew punches, and we move a lot of those, to my utter surprise.

    Will was quite well known for his stance on castle nut staking. In truth, he was a proponent for doing everything properly, castle nut staking happened to be one of the more polarizing topics, it shouldn't be. Do it right (torque 38 to 42 ft/lb and stake the nut in 2 places), or it's wrong, it's really that simple and binary. That was his stance, and it's ours too. I loved hearing him relating his experience in his classes, the number and brand of factory guns that either did a poor job of it, or didn't even try. There was always pictures of piles of garbage parts he pulled aside lol, wish I had saved some.
    Last edited by Duffy; 06-26-20 at 21:55.
    Roger Wang
    Forward Controls Design
    Simplicity is the sign of truth

  3. #13
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    You can get a center punch from Lowes for $6. Or you can take a carburetor wrench and stake with it. They come free with small engines. I’ve staked dozens with the flat-blade carb wrench and they look excellent, and more importantly, function perfectly. Do it in two places and support the extension while you do it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #14
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    Apr 2014
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    I use a Starrett spring loaded punch. Very easy to use. And I slightly angle the punch toward the notch in the castle nut.

    https://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/18c

  5. #15
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    ^^^^^^^^^
    Same.

  6. #16
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    Stake em'.

    ^^^^^^^^

    Same.

  7. #17
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    The auto punch is preferred because it frees up a hand to hold the lower steady, as well as less chance of hammer damage for the tool/dexterity challenged.

    But in the cheapest category, any old broken punch you have and a sander or grinder to shape it works. Make another one to take care of poorly staked carriers for extra points.

  8. #18
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    Gettin' down innagrass.
    Let's Go Brandon!

  9. #19
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    My staking looks just like the pics. Well, just like the pics if a drunk used a Harbor Freight auto punch.

    My Sionics Gutless lower's staking is beautiful.

    Andy

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd.K View Post
    The auto punch is preferred because it frees up a hand to hold the lower steady, as well as less chance of hammer damage for the tool/dexterity challenged.

    But in the cheapest category, any old broken punch you have and a sander or grinder to shape it works. Make another one to take care of poorly staked carriers for extra points.
    I stabilize the lower in the Geissele Reaction Block for staking the end plate, it's super solid and makes staking really easy to do.

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