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Thread: Magaine ID markings, revisited

  1. #1
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    Magaine ID markings, revisited

    I did a search on this, and found an endless range of posts on the Materiel side of magazine ID's, but not so much the Software side--color codes, ID's etc.

    Question is, what all "special codes" do you guys use to indicate loads, roles etc.? I know any dedicated as malfunction trainers usually require a color marking, and thought I'd see what colors you guys use for what meanings. (Some favor red for trainers; I was leaning more toward a light blue like the military uses on practice ordnance saving red for "war shots," and I know Orange is usually for "less lethal.")

    Right now, here's the roadmap I'm thinking of for my own codes; would appreciate any refinement suggestions. Bear in mind, I'm operating several different groups for specific apps...

    Dedicated for my M4, all MAG556-MCT
    Main Mags: M4 1-14, green band at bottom
    Training Mags: M4 T1-T7, blue band above green band
    All: My initials on bottom of baseplate

    Dedicated for our C8, all D&H/USGI 30-round
    Main Mags: C8 1-14, colored band at bottom (waiting for GF to pick color, since these are for "her" gun)
    Training Mags: C8 T1-T7, blue band above colored band
    All: My initials and hers on bottom of baseplate

    General Purpose inventory, all black no-window Gen M3 PMags
    Numbering system: First two digits are capacity, second two individual ID--examples, 1021 = ten-round in active use, 30T3 = 30-round training-only
    Blue band on bottom body: Training use only
    Red base: Loaded with Mk 262--does Magpul sell spare baseplates?
    Green base: Loaded with M855
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  2. #2
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    I number each mag with a paint marker. If the mag is the possible culprit of a failure, I separate it from the batch. If I determine the mag is bad, and isn't fixable (cracked PMag, bent feed lips, etc) I destroy it. I do not keep bad mags around for malfunction practice.

  3. #3
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    I number mags with a sharpie. Black sharpie on painted mags, silver sharpie on black mags.

    Most of what I have loaded is 62 gr FMJ. So those mags get no tape. Anything with 52gr, whether SP or FMJ, gets black tape.

    Mags w/62gr FMJ and last 5 rounds tracer, get green tape.

    Mags with all tracer get red tape.

    Training mags get blue tape.

    The tape will be a strip around the base area, .5-1" wide.

    Though every mag has been shot through at some point in its life, that handful of training mags gets shot through the most, so the others don't get worn out, just stay loaded.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViniVidivici View Post
    I number mags with a sharpie. Black sharpie on painted mags, silver sharpie on black mags.
    Most of what I have loaded is 62 gr FMJ. So those mags get no tape. Anything with 52gr, whether SP or FMJ, gets black tape.
    Mags w/62gr FMJ and last 5 rounds tracer, get green tape.
    Mags with all tracer get red tape.
    Training mags get blue tape.
    The tape will be a strip around the base area, .5-1" wide.
    Though every mag has been shot through at some point in its life, that handful of training mags gets shot through the most, so the others don't get worn out, just stay loaded.
    The multi-color packs of electrical tape are handy.
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  5. #5
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    Indeed, but I use duct tape. Stays on better.

    And I meant 55gr for the lighter stuff.
    Last edited by ViniVidivici; 10-03-20 at 11:56.

  6. #6
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    I mark the mags but number the USGI mags and assign a letter A-Z for polymer mags. Two mags were identified as trouble makers. After installing M*Carbo heavier springs in these the trouble went away. So I installed these springs in all my mags---they have run flawlessly for six months. So marking the mags was my first step to reliability.

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