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Thread: Hornady LnL progressive experts, 223 advice please.

  1. #11
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    There are some things I’ve done to improve priming on the LnL. The first thing is to clean up the casting on the shuttle. I took some files and removed the casting seams and a chamfer/debur tool to clean up the round opening. Then I polished all the contact points with a Dremel tool. I also keep canned air to keep any powder flakes making its way to the shell plate cleared off. Any powder can cause misalignment.

    Additionally, make sure your timing is properly adjusted. Any timing errors can wreck havoc on the priming system.

    Believe it or not, I think the LnL produces some of the straightest ammunition of any of the progressive presses.


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  2. #12
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    I use an approach similar to MarkM. But I don't use the LnL progressive for rifle rounds and don't recommend it. I only use the progressive for pistol.

    I decap and size on the Hornady Iron single stage, then hand prime and hand powder charge in the trays before moving back to the Iron to seat the bullets.

    Something always goes wrong on a progressive when loading rifle rounds and I prefer a higher margin of safety when loading rifle.

    Before I purchased the Iron single stage, I used the LnL progressive as a single stage. I was simply fed up with fixing priming, decaping or other issues that sent everything awry.

    Its pretty hard to screw up a pistol load, not so much with rifle. I also load for accuracy when loading rifle, so I like to control things fairly well. The powder drop on the LnL progressive is great for pistol, doesn't drop nearly consistently enough for me to use it on rifle.

    That said, both my Hornady presses are great. I'm not knocking the LnL progressive at all.

    I think of them as follows:

    Shotgun - Most forgiving
    Pistol - Mostly forgiving
    Rifle - Have your shit squared away before loading
    Last edited by HKGuns; 06-30-20 at 11:37.

  3. #13
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    Sep 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    I use an approach similar to MarkM. But I don't use the LnL progressive for rifle rounds and don't recommend it. I only use the progressive for pistol.

    I decap and size on the Hornady Iron single stage, then hand prime and hand powder charge in the trays before moving back to the Iron to seat the bullets.

    Something always goes wrong on a progressive when loading rifle rounds and I prefer a higher margin of safety when loading rifle. Before I purchased the Iron single stage, I used the LnL progressive as a single stage. I was simply fed up with fixing priming, decaping or other issues that sent everything awry.

    Its pretty hard to screw up a pistol load, not so much with rifle.

    I think of them as follows:

    Shotgun - Most forgiving
    Pistol - Mostly forgiving
    Rifle - Have your shit squared away before loading
    Always? I've had the same amount of mishaps when doing pistol just as much as rifle, hardly ever, so I don't know what you are talking about. However your method is your method, do what works for you.

  4. #14
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    A great heartfelt thank you to all who helped me out with sharing their reloading knowledge with me. It has given me what I needed to begin reloading 223.

    Be well to all and again thanks.

  5. #15
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    Very cool. In case you don't already have one. A .223 case gauge is useful. If your brass will hold a bullet, there's a reasonable amount of powder in it, there's a good primer, and it fits into the case gauge parameters. It WILL work.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

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