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Thread: Hornady LnL progressive experts, 223 advice please.

  1. #1
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    Hornady LnL progressive experts, 223 advice please.

    Been acquiring 223 reloading components for a LONG time in preparation to reload it one day. Well I feel that day has arrived to reload a few 223 rounds at least. Never reloaded a bottle necked cartridge on a progressive press. Been reloading bottle necked cartridges for 25+ years on my Rockchuker II, but only 9mm, 38/357 and 45acp on a progressive press.

    To start I think if anyone has links to some great You Tube videos specifically with the Hornady LnL progressive reloading 223 for beginners would be all I would like to have at this point. I know there are a great many videos on YouTube about using the H/LnL but if anyone knows of video that they feel extremely well made specifically for a beginner reloading 223 I would greatly appreciate it.

    Thanks,
    DJ/Art.

  2. #2
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    Basically, it’s going to work the same way as your single stage, but multiple stations with one pull of the handle.

    A few tricks I’ve found, assuming it doesn’t need trimmed:

    The best way to do things is to run through twice. The first time through lube your brass (I prefer the One-Shot spray), decap in station one, full-length size in station two without a decapping rod or sizing button.

    Then tumble the brass (I prefer a wet tumbler because it will make the primer pockets squeaky clean). After the brass is clean and dry, ensure primer pockets are free of crimp and uniform. The LnL priming system can be finicky.

    Now you’re ready to put the brass in the press. In station one, keep the universal decapping die. On the downstroke you’re will be priming. I’ve found CCI #41s are less likely to be damaged on a tight primer pocket or one that wasn’t adequately de-crimped. Station two I like a Sinclair expander die with a carbide expander mandrel.

    Immediately after this stage, you can use your powder measure. The Hornady LnL is one of the best I’ve seen for accuracy and consistency. Stick with ball powders or shortly cut powders. 8208 is the only non-ball powder I’ve seen that meters well. If I’m going for precision ammo, I use a powder die with a funnel and charge with an RCBS Chargemaster.

    Next, if you desire you can use a Powder Cop die for powder measure thrown charges.

    I prefer to follow charging with a Forster BR seater die. Sit the bullet in on the upstroke and maintain it best you can.

    In the last stage, use the Lee factory crimp die if you so desire. I’ve found better accuracy in ARs with crimped ammo. I believe this due to the bullet coming unseated by the bolt slamming home.

    Hopefully this guide helps a bit. If you want I could make some videos next I load.

    If you need to trim your brass, I’d recommend just adding the expander mandrel the first time though before and use a little crow Gunworks trimmer on a drill before tumbling. Second time through keep it the same regardless.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    I have one. When I set it up for 223, powder drop is station number one. Two is left empty on purpose so if my OCD gets curious, I can use my headlamp or a flashlight to make sure powder made it inside for any spot checks. Station three is the powder checker. Four seats. Five is not needed and I may get flak for it but my RCBS rifle dies do a good job of not needing to factory crimp (pistol still needs a factory crimp) and there has never been any changes of OAL under recoil. I use it to make sure nothing got crushed before it hits the tray to begin anew for another case to be loaded.

    Just be sure to make sure the dies are where they're supposed to be so everything runs smooth. Switching back and forth makes me realize why guys say screw it, and but another press, or a press for each cartridge. I don't mind the extra work though, it's all therapeutic to me.

    My LnL at first had powder sticking to the sides until enough usage caused it to be like graphite and no more stickiness. The only stick powder that it has no problem metering is Varget, so that's awesome for me, unique is so so, but ball powder like TAC, CFE 223 or CFE Pistol, Autocomp, 231 or HP38, flows and meters beautiful.

    If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
    Last edited by FightinQ; 06-29-20 at 23:17.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by PracticalRifleman View Post
    Basically, it’s going to work the same way as your single stage, but multiple stations with one pull of the handle.

    A few tricks I’ve found, assuming it doesn’t need trimmed:

    The best way to do things is to run through twice. The first time through lube your brass (I prefer the One-Shot spray), decap in station one, full-length size in station two without a decapping rod or sizing button.

    Then tumble the brass (I prefer a wet tumbler because it will make the primer pockets squeaky clean). After the brass is clean and dry, ensure primer pockets are free of crimp and uniform. The LnL priming system can be finicky.

    Now you’re ready to put the brass in the press. In station one, keep the universal decapping die. On the downstroke you’re will be priming. I’ve found CCI #41s are less likely to be damaged on a tight primer pocket or one that wasn’t adequately de-crimped. Station two I like a Sinclair expander die with a carbide expander mandrel.

    Immediately after this stage, you can use your powder measure. The Hornady LnL is one of the best I’ve seen for accuracy and consistency. Stick with ball powders or shortly cut powders. 8208 is the only non-ball powder I’ve seen that meters well. If I’m going for precision ammo, I use a powder die with a funnel and charge with an RCBS Chargemaster.

    Next, if you desire you can use a Powder Cop die for powder measure thrown charges.

    I prefer to follow charging with a Forster BR seater die. Sit the bullet in on the upstroke and maintain it best you can.

    In the last stage, use the Lee factory crimp die if you so desire. I’ve found better accuracy in ARs with crimped ammo. I believe this due to the bullet coming unseated by the bolt slamming home.

    Hopefully this guide helps a bit. If you want I could make some videos next I load.

    If you need to trim your brass, I’d recommend just adding the expander mandrel the first time though before and use a little crow Gunworks trimmer on a drill before tumbling. Second time through keep it the same regardless.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Good stuff. A solid method, with clear explanations.

    I know several guys who load quality rifle this way on a progressive and it works.

  5. #5
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    My approach is to decap, tumble, size, neck size, tumble, trim, then Prime the brass. ALL before hitting the progressive. I don't have an LNL, so I don't know if there's a good priming system on it. But it can't be worse than the 550b Dillon priming system. That's why I prime off press.

    I do powder charge, bullet seat, and crimp on the progressive.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  6. #6
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    Priming is the weak link in the LnL, in my experience. I split it up into two operations. First, I size and decap, then wipe away lube (Dillon variety). I then prime by hand and use the rest of the LnL for powder charging, bullet seating and crimp if need be. I only load 100-200 rounds at a time so this works well for me.

  7. #7
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    I use the same setup as (PracticalRifleman) minus the powder-cop.
    ETC (SW/AW), USN (1998-2008)
    CVN-65, USS Enterprise

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by gunnerblue View Post
    I then prime by hand and use the rest of the LnL
    I don't mind hand priming too much. It gets me an intimate idea of which brass primer pockets are too loose for full power loads.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  9. #9
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    I've been using my LNL for prep. Maybe one day I'll load on it, too. Look up HighBoy76's videos. He has some really good ones that solved some issues for me.

  10. #10
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    Yeah, the priming system on the LnL is the weak link. I prefer to hand prime anyhow. I decap, wet tumble, inspect and cull as needed. Then I size, wet tumble again, and trim/debur and remove crimps if needed.

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