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Thread: NewB Zeroing Question on new AR15

  1. #1
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    NewB Zeroing Question on new AR15

    I am pretty new at this and need help with zeroing on my new AR15. Please excuse any ignorance in my questions...thanks!!!

    I have been reading over the past two months about zeroing and proper zeroing. It seems that most pieces I read discuss a couple things. First, the purpose of the rifle...how it is expected to be used or might be used. Second, that each zeroing scheme has its place and purpose. Third, there is NO perfect zero, each is specific to the needs of the shooter. Fourth, regardless of the zero use, the number one factor will be the skill of the shooter. And...well...tons of other good pieces.

    At any rate, I am looking to figure out what zero might be best for the following.

    AR15 w/16" barrel....223Wylde
    Eotec HWS EXPS GRN Optic
    Troy Industries Iron Flip Up back up sights for co-witness (through 1/3 bottom of Eotech)
    Green Laser - mounted under barrel

    Ammo: Likely Speer Gold Dot LE Duty .223 Rem 62grn SP (or the like, for self defense with accuracy, suggestions welcome)

    Purpose of the rifle: Mainly Self Defense, but also target shooting out to, say, 100+ yards. Would love to target shoot farther, but without a magnifier, or a scope, and the increase in deviations outside of the main purpose of the rifle forcing more holdover/holdunder I don't think that is likely.

    I am looking to use a 50 yard zero or the 100 yard zero. My goal is to have the narrowest ribbon of bullet rise and drop from....25yds out to approx. 100 or 120yds or so. I am hoping to use the bottom line of the Eotech reticle for targets from 0 to, say 10yds or so....from there I would like to simply point and shoot (putting the 1moa dot in the center of the reticle on target and pull the trigger, no hold over or under).

    Is it even possible to have a zero which gives you only a 2" deviation, 1" up or down from center, to 100 yards? Could anyone give me approximations of the 50 yard Zero deviation at 25yds, 75yds, 100yds, and 150yds...and where that second Zero MIGHT be (about 200+yds???)?

    And the approximations of the 100 yard Zero deviation at 25yds, 50yds, 75yds, and 150yds? I believe, from what I've read that the 100yd zero would simply drop after about 110yds, requiring only a hold over beyond that point.

    Ok...I know enough, I think, to write what I wrote above, based on reading only. BUT not enough to use the readily available calculators to find all of this. My expertise is with handguns...not rifles.

    Thanks for any helpful info!!!

    Best,

    KM1
    Last edited by KM1; 07-08-20 at 10:19.

  2. #2
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    On dot sights or irons I use a 50/200 zero which gives +/- 2" out to around 250 yrds. On optics I use a 100 yrd zero, from there everything is up, so a shot at 200 is +.4 mils, a shot at 50 is also +.4mils or use a hold on the reticle.
    For irons (the elevation adjustable type with a drum) look for Improved Battlesight Zero.

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    Ok....if I understand you correctly

    Is my Eotech considered a "dot" sight or an Optic??? Would my Eotech be a 50/200 zero or 100 zero?

    Is +.4 mils under 1/2 inch? And does this all take into account the ammo used and 16" barrel I will be using?

    Based on your explanation....and me wanting to have the least amount of rise and fall of bullet trajectory out to 110yds...wouldn't the 100 yard zero be better for ALL??? Isn't that point and shoot out to that 100+ and then everything is a holdover?

    What is the +/- of the bullet at 25yd of a 100yd zero...is it also +.4mils.

    Using the 100 yard zero as my example...couldn't I use the reticle hold (line at bottom of reticle) for anything 0 to 25yds.....then the 1moa dot for anything 25yds to 110yds with slight holdover up to 200 yds?

    What would be the difference using the same procedure above with a 50 yard zero? Would there be more to consider using that 50/200 zero with the above procedure?

    Basically which of the two gets me closest to a +/- only 1" bullet trajectory (rather than 2") out to about 110+ yds? I thought the bullet trajectory with a 50/200 zero is almost 2" at POA at 100yds? if one wanted to be dead on at 100yds they would need a holdunder of 2"...yes?

    Plus, would the green laser be set the same as the Eotech? I was thinking of just going with the 100 yard zero with the laser due to it being so linear and like only 1" below the barrel.

    Hope my questions make sense...thanks for your response.
    Last edited by KM1; 07-08-20 at 11:56.

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    Eotechs are usually dot sights without magnification. Mils are an angular measurement, but .1mil = .36in at 100 yards so .4mil is about 1.44in at 100 yards, 2.88in at 200 yards

    What barrel length, what round (bullet weight matters) and at what range are you shooting. For self-defense shooting (up close and personal) 50/200 is fine and learn the holds. If you are doing precision shots beyond self-defense distances then you are in variable scope territory (like a 2.5x10). Dot sights are employed by our military members but remember they are shooting at man size targets.

    In very general terms the bullet travels like a football arc, and you decide the distance of POA/POI as your zero distance. If I zero at 100, I'll be low at 50 and 200. If I zero at 50/200, I'll be high at 100 (by about 1.44 inches or .4mils).
    Last edited by LMT/556; 07-08-20 at 12:46.

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    https://le.vistaoutdoor.com/ammuniti...spx?id=24445SP
    They have drop data at the bottom, but out of a 24" gun, out of a 16" you velocity will be lower.

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    It is an AR15 w/16" barrel....223Wylde
    Ammo is likely Speer Gold Dot LE Duty .223 Rem 62grn SP (or the like, for self defense with accuracy, suggestions welcome)

    Range is only 25yds...so to zero I will need an adjusted target. I have links to some for both 50 and 100 yard zeros, adjusted for 25yds.

    Yes..."If I zero at 100, I'll be low at 50 and 200"...the question is how much. If it is only +/- an inch or less at 50 and 200, but right on at 100.....that would be what I choose. I can easily use the reticle hold line at the bottom for anything 0 to 25 yards then 1moa dot on target and pull the trigger without any holdover or holdunder from 25 to 110+yds.

    On the other hand, when zeroing at 50/200, if that high distance at 100yds is pushing 1.5+" or more....than I would opt for a zero that might get me closer to under 1" at 50 to about 110+yds and VERY CLOSE to spot on at 100.

    If that makes sense.

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    Thanks for the link on LE ammo. I did see that. What I find interesting is that the reported velocity there is higher than what I have seen....at least on video's on the internet. They are mostly reporting about 2700 - 2800 fps, at least from what I've seen...again, only on the internet.

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    Last edited by LMT/556; 07-08-20 at 13:38.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KM1 View Post
    Thanks for the link on LE ammo. I did see that. What I find interesting is that the reported velocity there is higher than what I have seen....at least on video's on the internet. They are mostly reporting about 2700 - 2800 fps, at least from what I've seen...again, only on the internet.
    24" test barrel, sight 1.5" above bore. Every detail makes a difference.

    A 25 yard zero is close to a 300 yard zero.
    Last edited by LMT/556; 07-08-20 at 13:39.

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