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Thread: Nightforce NX8 1-8 Scope

  1. #121
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    Pictures of Current Scope Position

    Take into account, I didn’t move the scope or mount. I adjusted the stock position and diopter.



    Rear of A496 mount sits at T6 slot.



    Overall position.

    Last edited by davidjinks; 12-20-20 at 22:03. Reason: AUTOCORRECT!!!!!!!!

  2. #122
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    Attachment 64629

    This works very well for me on 1x and 8x. I am extremely sensitive to diopter shift, and have 20/10 vision.

  3. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidjinks View Post
    Question for you all.......

    Do you guys use loctite on your scope mounts or just go with manufacturer specs for torque?
    I use loctite 243 on the ring caps. My shit doesn't move. I have never had an issue with scope tube integrity, either. I torque to the mount's spec, and use Nightforce optics. For me, that's Badger C1 at 20 in-lb.

  4. #124
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    If I had to guesstimate with my MK1 eyeball, that’s about where I ended up with my diopter.

    I’m 20/15 in right eye and 20/20 in the left.

    Quote Originally Posted by WS6 View Post
    Attachment 64629

    This works very well for me on 1x and 8x. I am extremely sensitive to diopter shift, and have 20/10 vision.

  5. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidjinks View Post
    This scope about caused me to have an aneurism today. It almost got a free ride out the window.

    With that being said, I solved my problem. Traditionally I am a NTCH shooter. Been that way since I learned to shoot these types of rifles when I joined the Army. It’s a habit that was just broken today.

    I run all of my SOPMOD stocks 1 position out from being fully collapsed. Today, that changed, I now run them in the 3rd position.

    The rifle went into my vice setup. I unscrewed the diopter and ring and ran the diopter all the way in. From there, on 1x, focusing at 4 different objects ranging from 7-100 yards, I began to run the diopter back out. It took about 3/4 of a turn and all was great in the world.

    From there, I locked the diopter and locking ring down tight. I began traversing each target getting quick snap shot sight pictures with and without illumination. I also began checking clarity of the reticle from 1x all the way through 8x.

    Ironman8: I wasn’t fully tracking in regards to what you were saying about getting the sight picture as flat as possible. That is until I had the diopter all the way in and begin adjusting out. There is a huge difference in the sight picture and reticle from when I originally started.

    Absolutely happy with the outcome! Thanks to all of you guys who had input on adjusting this scope!
    You're ate up..

    Refer to Rudy's instruction at Ridgeline on how to properly determine your length of pull and rifle set up.
    https://www.ridgelineshooting.com/th...-set-up-part-i



    You don't adjust the scope's diopter for target focus, you set it to focus your reticle:
    1) Set optic to max magnification and rotate the diopter all the way out but before you completely remove the barrel
    2) Point the gun/optic at the sky
    3) Close your eye and briefly open your eye (no more than 5 seconds) to view through the target. Close your eye to reset if you're messing this up.
    3a) If the reticle is blurry, close your eye, turn the diopter some and briefly view through the glass
    3b) Repeat 3-3b until reticle is in focus

    Your length of pull should be very close across all platforms.

    You want to tighten scope rings in accordance to optic torque specifications..

  6. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by contax_shooter View Post
    You're ate up..

    Refer to Rudy's instruction at Ridgeline on how to properly determine your length of pull and rifle set up.
    https://www.ridgelineshooting.com/th...-set-up-part-i



    You don't adjust the scope's diopter for target focus, you set it to focus your reticle:
    1) Set optic to max magnification and rotate the diopter all the way out but before you completely remove the barrel
    2) Point the gun/optic at the sky
    3) Close your eye and briefly open your eye (no more than 5 seconds) to view through the target. Close your eye to reset if you're messing this up.
    3a) If the reticle is blurry, close your eye, turn the diopter some and briefly view through the glass
    3b) Repeat 3-3b until reticle is in focus

    Your length of pull should be very close across all platforms.

    You want to tighten scope rings in accordance to optic torque specifications..
    I've tried that. Reticle is crisp at nearly any diopter setting. No go, here.
    Have to look at a grid. Then I make the grid and reticle crisp. Or letters or whatever. Something requiring good resolution. I often use bullet holes in paper at 100m. That is at the edge of my perception on a 6x optic, so it works great.
    Last edited by WS6; 12-22-20 at 23:34.

  7. #127
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    I specifically stated that I was looking for reticle crispness. For me and my eyeballs I need to have contrasting backgrounds in order for that to happen.

    Quote Originally Posted by contax_shooter View Post
    You're ate up..

    Refer to Rudy's instruction at Ridgeline on how to properly determine your length of pull and rifle set up.
    https://www.ridgelineshooting.com/th...-set-up-part-i



    You don't adjust the scope's diopter for target focus, you set it to focus your reticle:
    1) Set optic to max magnification and rotate the diopter all the way out but before you completely remove the barrel
    2) Point the gun/optic at the sky
    3) Close your eye and briefly open your eye (no more than 5 seconds) to view through the target. Close your eye to reset if you're messing this up.
    3a) If the reticle is blurry, close your eye, turn the diopter some and briefly view through the glass
    3b) Repeat 3-3b until reticle is in focus

    Your length of pull should be very close across all platforms.

    You want to tighten scope rings in accordance to optic torque specifications..
    Last edited by davidjinks; 12-23-20 at 06:37.

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6 View Post
    I've tried that. Reticle is crisp at nearly any diopter setting. No go, here.
    Have to look at a grid. Then I make the grid and reticle crisp. Or letters or whatever. Something requiring good resolution. I often use bullet holes in paper at 100m. That is at the edge of my perception on a 6x optic, so it works great.
    The only issue is that all LPVO's have a set parallax distance, so the focal distance from your face to the etched reticle is a fixed measurement.

    Quote Originally Posted by davidjinks View Post
    I specifically stated that I was looking for reticle crispness. For me and my eyeballs I need to have contrasting backgrounds in order for that to happen.
    Point the gun at a blank wall with a flashlight. You should have instantaneous "crispness" of the reticle, if not, you're straining your eyeballs to make up for it.

  9. #129
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    Someone help me out here...

    My diopter rings on both of my 1-8 scopes will not stay locked. I don’t think I can tighten them down any more than what I have without breaking the scope.

    My other 2 NF scopes don’t have this problem. 1 sits on my .308 bolt gun and the other sits on a Tikka .22.
    Last edited by davidjinks; 01-17-21 at 21:57. Reason: Spelling

  10. #130
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    Try a strap wrench. I know what you are talking about.

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