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Thread: Looking for good Gunsmith to do Pin & Weld for 14.5" AR Barrel - UTAH

  1. #11
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    Was going to make a similar thread to this, but I think this thread will do. However, don't want to hijack. To answer OP's question, every time I think of smithing, the first name that pops into my head is Adco.

    https://adcofirearms.com/shop/gunsmi...muzzle-device/

    On that note, I need to do similar but would prefer to do it myself. I have the know-how and tools to do it. Since my 14.5 is a BCM I was just going to order the BCM A2X which already comes with the hole drilled in the A2 as well as the dowel. What I don't have is a welder. Anyone know if a soldering gun will get hot enough to melt the dowel? I doubt it as it's probably some sort of soft steel but figured I'd ask.

    A couple guys I work with have welders but would rather just do it all myself if I can.

    ETA - For those who have sent theirs in, did you have to take the barrel out of the upper or can you just send it as the barrel/upper/handguard assembly? I wouldn't think you'd have to take the barrel itself out as they're not turning anything, rather just dimpling it, but figured I'd ask.
    Last edited by Talon167; 08-08-20 at 07:46.

  2. #12
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    For just the pin and weld, my experience with John Thomas is no need to remove the barrel. To have your barrel cut down and re-threaded, then yes, the barrel will have to be removed. John can take care of that if you are not able to.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Talon167 View Post
    Was going to make a similar thread to this, but I think this thread will do. However, don't want to hijack. To answer OP's question, every time I think of smithing, the first name that pops into my head is Adco.

    https://adcofirearms.com/shop/gunsmi...muzzle-device/

    On that note, I need to do similar but would prefer to do it myself. I have the know-how and tools to do it. Since my 14.5 is a BCM I was just going to order the BCM A2X which already comes with the hole drilled in the A2 as well as the dowel. What I don't have is a welder. Anyone know if a soldering gun will get hot enough to melt the dowel? I doubt it as it's probably some sort of soft steel but figured I'd ask.

    A couple guys I work with have welders but would rather just do it all myself if I can.

    ETA - For those who have sent theirs in, did you have to take the barrel out of the upper or can you just send it as the barrel/upper/handguard assembly? I wouldn't think you'd have to take the barrel itself out as they're not turning anything, rather just dimpling it, but figured I'd ask.
    Adco will take your whole upper. No need to break it down. It's not hard to do yourself, but I don't know if a soldering iron will work. Just be careful drilling and go slow. My first time I was rushing and drilled right through a brand new 13.7" novesky barrel. I honestly didn't expect the drill to work so quicky and bam. Adco cut the barrel down and now I own an Sbr.

  4. #14
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    Reach out to Alex at Trajectory Arms in Springville.

    He assembles complete uppers for Forward Control Designs and has taken SOLGW as well as Semper Paratus armorers courses. His work is top notch and he is very accommodating.

  5. #15
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    John at Retro has done a couple for me. Same great experience as others have stated.

  6. #16
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    ADCO has done two for me. Great work and very fast turnaround.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by tadzilla View Post
    ADCO has done two for me. Great work and very fast turnaround.
    They did 4 for me over the years. Never a problem, quick and looked good. I have done a few years ago and drilled, tapped, and used a headless screw. I don't have access to the tools so started using ADCO. Now, it's 16 for me other than the two 14.5's I still have
    "The peace we have within us is most often expressed in how we treat others"

  8. #18
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    So I think I’m going to do this myself and then get a coworker to help me with the weld. He has a TIG welder and a full shop. If I want the weld to look nice is it best to have the pin sit a little below the surface of the muzzle device so the weld doesn’t bead up as much forming a dome? I just watched a couple YouTube videos where the weld was kind of big and ugly and I’m having some second thoughts about this. I feel confident in my ability to drill the hole and make the pin. The dead air flash hider came with shims which I assume should work great for timing it and the flash hider already has a hole in it so all I need to do is simple the barrel and cut a pin. Should the pin be a press fit or is it ok for it to slide in without hammering?

  9. #19
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    Either a press fit or a slip fit will work. Press fit means the pin won't move once it's pressed in place.

    Slip fit will be easier to get the length just right.

    Pick a method & don't over think it.
    The number of folks on my Full Of Shit list grows everyday

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  10. #20
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    Ok thanks do you torque the muzzle device down to any particular torque value? Should the top of the pin sit slightly below flush of the muzzle device to get best looking weld?
    Last edited by timewaster1700; 08-12-20 at 08:59.

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