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Thread: Eyes needed on Parts List

  1. #1
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    Cool Eyes needed on Parts List

    I am a new shooter, first time builder. I was referred to this forum and this is my first post. I would really appreciate some people to look over this parts list to make sure I am not missing any parts or pieces to complete this build. Thank You very much!

    Advice for a first time builder would be greatly appreciated.

    This link should allow commenting: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...it?usp=sharing
    Last edited by DingusGoziña; 08-22-20 at 13:15.

  2. #2
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    You'll need some sort of Magazine insert vice block and a reaction rod to make life easier putting together the lower and upper.

  3. #3
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    Strike is cancer but the rest of looks decent.
    Sic semper tyrannis.

  4. #4
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    Nice list. As someone noted, you will need a Magpul BEV block and (possibly) a Midwest Industries Upper Receiver Rod.
    Add a torque wrench, even if it is from Harbor Freight, and a center punch.

    Looks like you will need to add a receiver end plate, might as well get a QD option from BCM or any number of others.

    Two things that gave me pause: The A5H4 should be too heavy with the green spring, but worth trying. I believe you could just switch out one of the tungsten weights for a steel weight (cheap) to ensure reliability in cold weather, .223 ammo, etc. The SI dust cover has reports of not fitting well, but it is something I’ve considered myself.

    Question for you... Would the LaRue ultimate upper kit be an option still? I’m guessing you have already purchased parts, but if not, something to consider.

    Edit: You will also need a castle nut to go with the end plate.
    As a bonus suggestion that will cost a lot of unnecessary money, the Forward Controls Design smooth forward assist is actually very nice when paired with an ambidextrous charging handle. Your finger/fingernails will thank you. Alternatively, you can pick up a “teardrop” forward assist which is smooth on top and costs about the same as the BCM you have listed; this will accomplish the same thing as the FCD design without being as cool.
    Last edited by JediGuy; 08-22-20 at 22:28.
    “God doesn’t need your good works, but your neighbor does.” - Luther

    Quote Originally Posted by 1168
    7.5” is the Ed Hardy of barrel lengths.

  5. #5
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    Yeah, already purchased the parts.

    Thanks for mentioning the end plate. As a beginner, this is something I'm not even sure existed yet. Purpose of the post... lol. Going to go with Primary Weapon Systems End Plate + Castle Nut from SKDTac. (Just realized I don't have the castle nut either)

    Unfortunately I found the LaRue ultimate upper package after I purchased the parts.

    Bev Block purchased.

    I've got a torque wrench.

    What is the center punch for? I have a punch set and also roll pin punches ordered.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JediGuy View Post
    Nice list. As someone noted, you will need a Magpul BEV block and (possibly) a Midwest Industries Upper Receiver Rod.
    Add a torque wrench, even if it is from Harbor Freight, and a center punch.
    I see know that the center punch is used to stake the Castle Nut and prevent it from rotating after installation. Thanks

  7. #7
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    Two more items you will need:

    Aeroshell 33MS grease - This is required to place on the threads mating the barrel nut to the upper receiver. Umbrella sells a small container that will have far more than you need. Other places sell this, as well. I also use (though not required) on the threads mating the receiver extension to the lower receiver.
    Edit for link: https://www.amazon.com/Umbrella-Corp.../dp/B01GGQMF54

    Aeroshell 6 grease - When handling small detente or springs, a tiny amount of this can be used to hold the small part in a roll pin holder or in a hole. Then, I use this for trigger sear surfaces, but now also to lubricate the BCG exterior. This is a massive amount, but will last you a lifetime.
    https://www.amazon.com/AeroShell-Gre.../dp/B00FX6SHJ2

    Additional very useful but not absolutely required:

    Roll pin starter punches or “roll pin holders” - These will allow you to keep your sanity. This is also where you could put a dab of grease on a roll pin, place it in the holder, and it will stay put while you place in the proper hole.
    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod71891.aspx

    Besides that, a very basic set of punches (just regular flat-faced) is very convenient for pounding in roll pins until very close to flush. This would save wear on your roll pin punches. I have the Wheeler set you linked, and I have had to gradually replace the individual punches due to wear, sometimes wear that could have been avoided.
    “God doesn’t need your good works, but your neighbor does.” - Luther

    Quote Originally Posted by 1168
    7.5” is the Ed Hardy of barrel lengths.

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