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Thread: A Little HK45 & P30 Help Please

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Left Sig View Post
    I had an early M&P 9mm. It was OK, and I kind of liked it with the small grip. When I first got it the trigger had a crisp but somewhat heavy break after the light takeup. It was probably around the advertised 6.5 pounds.

    After a few hundred rounds through it, the trigger parts wore in and the pull dropped to around 6 pounds, but it had developed some nasty gritty creep - just terrible. I was reasonably accurate with it despite the trigger, and it was 100% reliable, but overall it was kind of boring to shoot.

    I traded it towards a P30 because the grip is about perfect for my hands, and I like that it is almost 100% ambidextrous. The M&P was pretty good in that regard, but the P30 is better. Overall quality seems to be quite a bit better than the M&P, but you do pay for it. The SA on the P30 is better than the M&P DAO, but naturally the DA on the P30 is heavier.

    Shortly thereafter I got an HK45 which is simply outstanding. If I could have only one .45 this would be it. I just need to get ambi safety levers installed sometime. I also just picked up a P30L because I like the P30 so much. I didn't like the way the USP series recoiled, but the new HK's shoot really soft.

    Almost every time this kind of discussion comes up, people recommend getting the trigger on the M&P modified. If it's a competition or range only gun, that's one thing. But getting an M&P modified to the point that it's really an SAO without a safety is not a good idea if you have any inkling of carrying or using it for HD. Carrying a Glock with a 3.5 lb connector is also not the best idea, although the light connector with the NY trigger is supposed to be DA revolver-like

    The HK light LEM trigger as actually very similar to the Walther P99 AS trigger when the trigger is left in the forward position after loading. LONG takeup with a crisp letoff. The only difference is the AS trigger then goes to SA mode without the full reset of the LEM.

    If you're looking for a game gun, a tricked out M&P or Glock with a light, short-reset trigger is probably your best choice.
    Interesting observation regarding the P99, LeftSig.

    I used a P99 for a while. That is one rapid firing pistol! Extremely short trigger reset. But I found it to recoil very sharply for a 9mm, and I hear the .40's are even worse. However the pistol was extremely accurate with a nice SA. I find the "quick action" setting with the cocked striker and light first shot take up to be too light. It does offer some of the same first shot advantages of the LEM, but the P99's short take up only really works on the first, hand-charged shot, after that it goes into a traditional SA mode with decocker. I like the simplicity and overall inherent accuracy and safety of the P2000's LEM the best, which is why I dumped my P99. My P99's were also extremely reliable but finicky with what type of bullets they would chamber. Occasionally I'd find a round that the bullet's ogive would interfere with the short rifling leade preventing fully chambering. I wanted a 100% pistol so I dumped the P99 for the HK P2000 LEM or a SIG and haven't looked back. I maintain a Glock in inventory simply because it is such a ubiquitous design that every handgunner should be familiar with if not master too.

    Tim

  2. #22
    ToddG Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by sigmundsauer View Post
    Todd, I've not tried the 3.5# connector and NY1 combo, simply because my Glock gets neglected compared to my other pistols. But should give it a try someday. Sounds like it would make a good combination, however I believe that one of the inherently safe attributes of HK's LEM is the relatively long take up on the front end. Trigger prep takes the slack out in an instant but there's no mistaking where you are in the trigger stroke prior to sear break. I do like the Glock trigger though.
    FWIW, while the actual trigger pull distance doesn't change, the 3.5/NY thing does change the takeup. There is resistance right from the beginning of the trigger press, almost like a DA revolver. As I said, I set up M&P's up similarly and one of my motivations is because I like tactile indication that the trigger is moving from beginning to end.

    1911s are of the few guns that can be dry fired extensively without snap caps or ill effects, IMO.
    True only for 1911-pattern guns without firing pin block mechanisms, at least from what I've seen & heard. Never broke one myself, but also never did any extensive dry firing with one.

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