UHMWPE stand alone but used ICW lvl IIIA soft armor

[ace4059]

Could a stand alone UHMWPE plate backed with lvl IIIA soft armor stop the steel penetrator tip of M855?

I am trying to find some tests or research on a stand alone polyethylene but where someone puts soft armor behind it for M855.
I understand UHMWPE can’t stop “armor piercing” rounds (the steel tip punches through) and for ICW (in conjunction with) ratings, the hard plate and soft armor must be certified together as the specific brand. Not any or all soft armor thrown behind the hard plate will have a NIJ rating because it’s too expensive to test all combinations so only one or two combos are usually endorsed for the ICW rating for each plate.

So what I’m try to find is... Has anyone done a non scientific test where they put soft armor behind a polyethylene plate and shot it with M855? I’m not specifically looking for NIJ testing. I’m just wonder if the hard plate would slow the steel tip down enough where the soft armor would catch it. From what I’ve seen usually the plate catches the copper and lead but steel insert “strips away” and punches through.
What about soft armor on the front and back of the plate?

I’ve just always wondered if that IIIa behind my plate is really adding any protection for me. Or is it just added weight?
I’m interested in the results. Maybe this could be an idea for members on here that have bigger name YouTube channels. They might have the plate and soft armor donated to them to perform the test. Gunsngear are you reading/listening?

[turnburglar]

I don't want to burn through my plates, testing this but I had a similar thought to yours.

Kinda of different solution though.




What makes plates LVL4 capable isn't their addition of aramid fibers behind the core, it is the addition of ceramic plates infront of the core. I went to home depot and bought a sheet of octagonal tile. I plan on cutting the tile to fit the shape of a plate, and then filling in the gaps and basting it with Silicone adhesive. Once properly infused, roll the plate in codura like wrapping a book in Xmas paper, and applying the adhesive to every layer creating a lamination effect. Also you want the adhesive to catalyze under pressure so find some way to apply pressure to the plate without cracking the ceramic for at least 48 hours. You will want at least 4-6 folds of laminated cordura behind the newly created ceramic core. This new plate will ride IN FRONT of the UHMWPE. The ceramic disrupts and breaks apart the steel core, and the UHMWPE acts as a net to catch the slug and tip rements.

[Lacos]

Have you looked at Hesco L210 and U210 plates?
They are rated to stop this round.

[ace4059]

Yes, I understand lvl IV has ceramic. I’m not looking at DIY or homemade armor, or trying to add a ceramic plate to the front of my current setup.

I wish the Hesco 210 plates would stop a lead 308. That’s the only thing I see lacking in my opinion.
Does the 210 plates have any ceramic in them? My only concern is being rough on the plates and cracking the ceramic.
I wonder if a 210 plate used ICW soft armor would stop a lead 308?

[Clint]

The L210 has a full ceramic strike face.

Some sources seem to indicate the L210 will "stop" a 308, but with greater than allowable back face deformation, so they aren't "rated" for it.

A soft backer should help that.

I wish the Hesco 210 plates would stop a lead 308. That’s the only thing I see lacking in my opinion.
Does the 210 plates have any ceramic in them? My only concern is being rough on the plates and cracking the ceramic.
I wonder if a 210 plate used ICW soft armor would stop a lead 308?

[Lowdown3]

Why not just buy a dedicated Level IV plate?

[MegademiC]

Yes, I understand lvl IV has ceramic. I’m not looking at DIY or homemade armor, or trying to add a ceramic plate to the front of my current setup.

I wish the Hesco 210 plates would stop a lead 308. That’s the only thing I see lacking in my opinion.
Does the 210 plates have any ceramic in them? My only concern is being rough on the plates and cracking the ceramic.
I wonder if a 210 plate used ICW soft armor would stop a lead 308?

Iirc, adding a iia plate behind the l210 does defeat m80. Id research it, but i remember reading it will stop it but have too great deformation. I do not recall the source.

210s are ceramic.

The l210 Do not stop m855a1. The u210s do. U210 is also 1.6lb lighter and marginally thinner.

[MegademiC]

I don't want to burn through my plates, testing this but I had a similar thought to yours.

Kinda of different solution though.




What makes plates LVL4 capable isn't their addition of aramid fibers behind the core, it is the addition of ceramic plates infront of the core. I went to home depot and bought a sheet of octagonal tile. I plan on cutting the tile to fit the shape of a plate, and then filling in the gaps and basting it with Silicone adhesive. Once properly infused, roll the plate in codura like wrapping a book in Xmas paper, and applying the adhesive to every layer creating a lamination effect. Also you want the adhesive to catalyze under pressure so find some way to apply pressure to the plate without cracking the ceramic for at least 48 hours. You will want at least 4-6 folds of laminated cordura behind the newly created ceramic core. This new plate will ride IN FRONT of the UHMWPE. The ceramic disrupts and breaks apart the steel core, and the UHMWPE acts as a net to catch the slug and tip rements.

I hope this is a test, not for use. Is it boron and/or silica carbide tile? I would not expect tile to have any effect, and if you do...

A lot of materials science and engineering goes into a half inch 4# plate that stops m855a1. Even the uhmwpe... i doubt a chunk of it from mcmaster would not produce the same results. The material chemistry, Layering, structure, microstructure, density, etc all have a lot to contribute.

[turnburglar]

[QUOTE=MegademiC;2896475]I hope this is a test, not for use. Is it boron and/or silica carbide tile? I would not expect tile to have any effect, and if you do...
/QUOTE]

I actually want to make a few to test some. That's a good point about the composition of the ceramics themselves as not all ceramics are created equal. I could do some research or testing to figure it out.

To be fair though, theres videos on YT where a kid made a tile and denim plate like I am talking about, and it was able to stop 223. I think stacking ANYTHING near silica infront of an already true LVL3 plate.... wouldn't be hurting anything.


This brings up the question though: How much of a threat is M855&A1? Some people see it as a huge threat. Personally I just cant wear plates that heavy. 3.5# UHMPWE seem like a decent compromise to me.

[Clint]

Hesco says the L210 will stop 3 round of M855A1.