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Thread: My first AR: 7.62x39 with Superlative Piston kit - Learning from failure...

  1. #31
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    If you're using a piston gas system why would you want a clamp-on gas block? I don't like them even for DI but a gas piston? You have that thing slapping back forward with each shot; at least with DI it doesn't have movement against it during the firing cycle.

    I'm a fan of pinning gas blocks myself, but to each his own.
    11C2P '83-'87
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by ABNAK View Post
    If you're using a piston gas system why would you want a clamp-on gas block? I don't like them even for DI but a gas piston? You have that thing slapping back forward with each shot; at least with DI it doesn't have movement against it during the firing cycle.

    I'm a fan of pinning gas blocks myself, but to each his own.
    It's no longer a piston gun - I had to give up on that due to the mid-length gas barrel.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pressingonward View Post
    Got my rifle back together. It now has a YHM clamp-on gas block, DD gas tube, Rubber City Armory BCG, and a DD front sight.

    Unfortunately, my handguard (UTG Pro) interferes with the gas block on the bottom, and I don't think I can clearance either of them enough. It'll work for now, but it's no longer free-floating.

    I really like the look of this handguard, and others like it that have an interupted top rail (like the Aero Atlas S-one), but I need 1.45"+ internal diameter to clear this gas block. Anyone know of a similar looking rail that might have a larger ID? I could swap the gas block instead of course, but thought I'd look at rail options first.

    Hoping I get a chance to get out and shoot this week, but it'll probably be next weekend realistically.
    I've put a few rounds through the new DI setup now, and figured I'm due to post an update. I know it's mostly pointless since this isn't an ultra-precision build and the barrel is nitrided (or at least it's supposed to be, it scratches pretty easily on the external surfaces...), but I've been trying to follow a "proper" break-in procedure for the barrel, so I'm only at 22 rounds fired so far, 18 of which are after the switch to DI. I understand now why most people don't follow the one shot, clean, one shot, clean... break in routine - it takes forever! The copper fouling is getting to be a bit less, so my last couple times I upped it to 2x shots between cleaning and then 5x on the last time, but I digress.

    Anyways, I had to encourage the bolt to go into battery with the forward assist for the first ~5 shots, but it seems to be wearing in and I didn't have any issues on the last couple sets of shots. Happy with that.

    I haven't had any fail-to-feeds since converting to DI, but it only locks the bolt back on the last round about 30% of the time. I've got a David Tubbs lightweight buffer spring that I'm going to try and see if I can correct that while still getting the bolt to reliably go into battery (not sure how much of a concern this is with a lighter spring). Still running a standard carbine weight buffer.

  4. #34
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    My experience with 9mm carbines and LRBHO a standard 3.0 buffer was allowing too much speed and it wouldn't always lock open. Going heavier slowed it down to be 100%. IIRC too much speed can also break your bolt catch.

    H2 is a minimum for a 16" carbine length gas system with the x39 round. Just glancing at that Tubbs spring I think it's a mistake unless you are going subsonic. I think you are dinking around with whizzbang parts that aren't going to work. If anything go to a .308 spring. (I have a couple, never tried one) I never had any problems with the 3.0 in any of my x39's. Going heavier does ease up on the felt recoil.

    All of my x39's are midlength. (softer shooting) And if you are shooting Tula my shoulder says it is weak compared to Poly Performance Wolf. Bunches weaker than Wolf "Mil-Spec."

  5. #35
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    Mine is midlength gas. You run an H3 buffer in yours?

    I do have an H3 buffer so I'll give that a try. Not trying to do anything whiz-bang - didn't consider that the buffer might be rebounding too harshly for the bolt to stay locked. Thanks for the advice, I'll let you know how it goes.

  6. #36
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    One other thing, as this is your first AR, I don't know if you're aware of the need to keep the moving parts wet with lube, especially during break in. Make sure all the bearing surfaces are lubed, including a little on the buffer spring.

    As far as the barrel break in procedure, do yourself a favor and skip it. Don't go nuts doing mag dumps or anything quite yet, but you can go 100 rounds between cleanings and it won't make the least bit of noticeable difference.
    “You have made us for yourself, O Lord, and our heart is restless until it rests in you.” -Augustine

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pressingonward View Post
    Mine is midlength gas. You run an H3 buffer in yours?

    I do have an H3 buffer so I'll give that a try. Not trying to do anything whiz-bang - didn't consider that the buffer might be rebounding too harshly for the bolt to stay locked. Thanks for the advice, I'll let you know how it goes.
    I have a 6.1oz elcheapo I got off ebay. Not sure what you call it. The 10.5" barrel may change the dynamics of the operation. IIRC I started out with a 3.0 and had no problems. The heavier buffer is for my comfort.

    I lube mine with Rotella 10-30 semi-synthetic diesel oil, or Motorkote. Modelers paint brush. I like Motorkote inside any barrel. The additives probably help deter wear using bi-metal bullets. I'm not into whizbang gun oils. I know a guy who used to own the distilling company who did Lucas oil gun lube. He laughed at how stupid expensive it is.

    georgeib brings up a good point on lubing! Not sure about lubing the buffer spring, couldn't hurt! I don't.

  8. #38
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    I have two 7.62x39 AR15's. One is a Windham Weaponry midlength and the other is a Bear Creek Arsenal carbine. Both run 100% with H1 or H2 buffers. In fact, both uppers run 100% using my M16 lower. When running full auto, you have to make sure that the buffer is light enough to allow the bolt to lock back on an empty magazine and heavy enough to prevent bolt bounce. When running semi auto, bolt bounce isn't really an issue. It happens, but it's so fast that you'd never notice. Therefore, getting the bolt to lock back on an empty magazine is really the primary concern in semi auto. Go with the heaviest buffer that will reliably allow that.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by georgeib View Post
    One other thing, as this is your first AR, I don't know if you're aware of the need to keep the moving parts wet with lube, especially during break in. Make sure all the bearing surfaces are lubed, including a little on the buffer spring.

    As far as the barrel break in procedure, do yourself a favor and skip it. Don't go nuts doing mag dumps or anything quite yet, but you can go 100 rounds between cleanings and it won't make the least bit of noticeable difference.
    Yep, I am keeping it well lubed, thanks for checking.

    I think the wife and I will have a chance to do some shooting next Wednesday so I'll do some testing with various buffer weights.

  10. #40
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    With a 3.0 buffer we videod one of my 16's and slowed it down. Zero bounce. Play binary or FA? Probably would.

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