Best lube for AR?

**Core781** · 12-08-20, 07:56

Originally Posted by okie

Ballistol basically has all those properties and won't seize up like the cooking oil lubes do. I think froglube et al is great for guns that are strictly for range use, but carry and nightstand guns need a real lubricant.

Funny, my guns do not sit on the nightstand, they get fielded daily, carried daily, sweat, lint, dirt, blood, shit, corona, you name it. I get temps that range from 100F down to -30F seasonally. To this day I have not had FrogLube seize anything up: "cooking oil lubes" is up for healthy debate considering they are not simply oils as processed for cooking: they have additives and go through chemical processes that alter their molecular structure. This goes back to the false claims by an internet "academic" (I know him) who started the cooking oil myth because he had it spectrum analyzed. The spectrum analysis was not scientifically high resolution in it's results to differentiate FireClean from Canola oil and other oils for that matter. All of the other conjecture is purely anecdotal. Let's face it people are resistant to embracing new technology and rightfully so. However, my FrogLube and Otis Bio CLP does dry up and lead to stoppages, and it's sitting next my my jewels all day and I don't worry about it. I have used several "high end" lubes that have left me high and dry scrubbing carbon off my guns. Some of it's MSDS properties have multiple carcinogenic chemical present, and some of it smells downright Kroil like. I treat my guns like I treat my women: I keep them close, clean, and ride them hard and leave them wet..

**bill460** · 12-08-20, 08:19

Biodegradable lubricants, (or what are commonly known as, "food grade" lubricants), are nothing new. And they don't require more calculations than a Shuttle launch to analyze. There are what they are..... Biodegradable. Which in a nutshell means they're intentionally made from plant esters of one form or another, so they can safely be taken internally. And will break down, and decompose in a short amount of time. Frog Lube is basically nothing more than mint scented, rebranded and repackaged roller coaster track lubricant. One of it's "features" is that it is designed to break down rather quickly, so as not to contaminate the ground under roller coaster tracks in amusement parks. Which is why if you store your firearm after applying it, you will be greeted to a gooey, gummed up and locked weapon after just a few months.

It's the same reason railroads use biodegradable, plant ester based greases for wheel flange lubricant. They don't want environmentalists screaming at them, and / or suing them for contaminating the right of way with petroleum based greases. Automated food processing equipment also uses these type of greases and lubricants for much the same reason. There is absolutely zero reason or advantage for firearms to be lubricated with this crap, because they do not require it. Petroleum based oils and lubricants are far better suited for this task. They last longer, and will not gum up a weapon. And unless you can't live without your AR-15 smelling like a breath mint, you are accomplishing nothing by using them. Simply because there have been far better products developed for this purpose. Otherwise car dealers would still be packing wheel bearings with Ox tallow. Much like the settlers packed the axle hubs on their covered wagons.

**1986s4** · 12-08-20, 08:37

Originally Posted by bill460

Biodegradable lubricants, (or what are commonly known as, "food grade" lubricants), are nothing new. And they don't require more calculations than a Shuttle launch to analyze. There are what they are..... Biodegradable. Which in a nutshell means they're intentionally made from plant esters of one form or another, so they can safely be taken internally. And will break down, and decompose in a short amount of time. Frog Lube is basically nothing more than mint scented, rebranded and repackaged roller coaster track lubricant. One of it's "features" is that it is designed to break down rather quickly, so as not to contaminate the ground under roller coaster tracks in amusement parks. Which is why if you store your firearm after applying it, you will be greeted to a gooey, gummed up and locked weapon after just a few months.

It's the same reason railroads use biodegradable, plant ester based greases for wheel flange lubricant. They don't want environmentalists screaming at them, and / or suing them for contaminating the right of way with petroleum based greases. Automated food processing equipment also uses these type of greases and lubricants for much the same reason. There is absolutely zero reason or advantage for firearms to be lubricated with this crap, because they do not require it. Petroleum based oils and lubricants are far better suited for this task. They last longer, and will not gum up a weapon. And unless you can't live without your AR-15 smelling like a breath mint, you are accomplishing nothing by using them. Simply because there have been far better products developed for this purpose. Otherwise car dealers would still be packing wheel bearings with Ox tallow.

Now this is very interesting, thank you for answering the question of why my Frog Lube gets pasty after a while and why I stopped using it. I still use it as a rust preventative on the exterior surfaces.

**Core781** · 12-08-20, 09:05

Originally Posted by 1986s4

Now this is very interesting, thank you for answering the question of why my Frog Lube gets pasty after a while and why I stopped using it. I still use it as a rust preventative on the exterior surfaces.

If you degrease parts and heat the FrogLube and apply thin it will not get pasty. Many bio lubes like FireClean and Otis are already a thin liquid and do not need to be heated, you slather on and wipe excess off. Of course you can choose to be conservative and conserve it by applying less liberally. Waxy-ness just means you applied it excessively. I use regular FrogLube in very cold temps often and do not have problems: a little goes a long way. Conventional oil is trash in my opinion: it cooks off and evaporates just like anything. And conventional oil breaks down just like anything else, most bearing grease has a two year lifespan and at best ten years for Krazy Grease marine grade: and you'll never get that long of use out of it. I have a shower rod that would not stop rusting: I applied FrogLube paste heated into a liquid with a rag and it has not rusted in three years since. It weeped oxidation for a few months. The significant issue I have with conventional oil is that it doesn't do well for carbon build up and it does not lift carbon, it makes it harder to get clean after you shoot.

**Pappabear** · 12-08-20, 09:52

It's interesting to me, Froglube takes a beating on this site and yet it's never failed me and I am for shit about lubing my guns. I just cleaned two MWS guns that had so much heavy tar-like substance on my BCG's ( A mixture of gun powder-Frog lube...) baked on with a can.

I would not have dreamed the gun would run like this but did for weeks on end. I wonder if the first round fired (friction) causes the Frog lube to return to some level of viscosity and functions. I've also wondered if our low humidity helps Frog lube as well.

Because we have run it on 1911's, AR's and bolt guns with great success. I'm messing around with Lucas right now and see if I get the same tar-like deal on my MWS BCG's.

PB

**Core781** · 12-08-20, 10:03

Originally Posted by Pappabear

It's interesting to me, Froglube takes a beating on this site and yet it's never failed me and I am for shit about lubing my guns. I just cleaned two MWS guns that had so much heavy tar-like substance on my BCG's ( A mixture of gun powder-Frog lube...) baked on with a can.

I would not have dreamed the gun would run like this but did for weeks on end. I wonder if the first round fired (friction) causes the Frog lube to return to some level of viscosity and functions. I've also wondered if our low humidity helps Frog lube as well.

Because we have run it on 1911's, AR's and bolt guns with great success. I'm messing around with Lucas right now and see if I get the same tar-like deal on my MWS BCG's.

PB

I agree. Otis sent me some bio CLP to test and compare and I am very happy with it. It's thinner than FrogLube. From my experience FrogLube is that it lasts a bit longer than Otis bio CLP before you need to re-apply. I have been testing Otis for a while now on my carry pistols and a AR and it has been great, but I am not convinced it is better or worse than FrogLube. They both work, and given I have to periodically clean my carry pistols and carbines the proverbial "breakdown" issue is moot. FireClean will be next to test when I get a chance to come by some. I was going to do some scientific analysis but I may never have the time to do it because they both work extremely well, and I have nothing to gain from the effort.

**1986s4** · 12-08-20, 10:40

Originally Posted by Pappabear

It's interesting to me, Froglube takes a beating on this site and yet it's never failed me and I am for shit about lubing my guns. I just cleaned two MWS guns that had so much heavy tar-like substance on my BCG's ( A mixture of gun powder-Frog lube...) baked on with a can.

I would not have dreamed the gun would run like this but did for weeks on end. I wonder if the first round fired (friction) causes the Frog lube to return to some level of viscosity and functions. I've also wondered if our low humidity helps Frog lube as well.

Because we have run it on 1911's, AR's and bolt guns with great success. I'm messing around with Lucas right now and see if I get the same tar-like deal on my MWS BCG's.

PB

Frog Lube glued up my 1911 when I ran it uncleaned over 6+ months which is why I discontinued using it. Maybe I over did it? My Colt 1911 is my experimental platform so I might do it again.

**Core781** · 12-08-20, 11:06

The 1911 was designed to run on a thin film of oil like most earlier firearms. It requires thin oil in the FCG (sear,trigger, hammer etc.) I use a 1911A1 and when it was new it was extremely tight after 15k rounds it runs like a clock. I use FrogLube paste on my 1911A1. Degrease all parts, yeah detail strip it if you are able otherwise have a friend or someone qualified to do it for you. I have been working on my own 1911's for some time: I have done some customization and learned over the years how to build a good one. Melt the FrogLube paste or use FrogLube Extreme or CLP liquid, put it on a link free swab and heat the parts up with a heat gun just mildly 200F approx and put a think coat on the parts. Apply a bit more heat and let parts cool. Wipe off excess and re-assemble. The thumb safety plunger and spring I use either Otis CLP which is liquid or FrogLube Extreme which is also liquid and just use a drop in those oil points. You can get aggressive on the rails and bolt face with liquid and I have slathered paste on the rails and not had a problem however, if you have a really tight 1911 new or bullseye model you need to use all liquid or it will create enough hydraulic friction to cause problems. My friend has a hardballer and it's so tight, you have to apply all lubes very thin. Same for older German pistols. Newer generation guns you can lube them very wet including AR's. IF you live in Alaska or similar climates, use FrogLube Extreme and use the same degrease, heat on initial application. After that just wipe off crud, and re-apply a thin coating of bio lube: it saves a lot of scrubbing and soaking parts. The thing I believe most conventional oil users do not realize is that their guns have a lot of carbon, powder, and fouling and you need aggressive solvents to remove it because oil will not do it typically. I used non and synthetic CLP for many years: it is a great oil but it's an all purpose solution. Bio lubes do not clean the gun they just prevent stuff from carbonizing on them. Now when I clean my guns I can wipe them clean, swab the small areas and or soak the parts in degreaser and wipe and dry. It's much easier for me. My old Colt carbine weeped carbon, powder, and fouling for weeks after I applied FrogLube for the first time. I was using CLP and a Solvent and it was not touching the stuff that came out of the gun. When I get a new gun, I detail strip it, and drop parts into a degreaser wash tub with very hot water and flush and dry parts, and apply a thin wet coat of bio lube. I like the Otis bio CLP because it's so thin at room temperature: it's easier than having to heat it up like FrogLube: but like I said before FrogLube seems to last longer. I find myself having to re-apply Otis bio CLP more frequently on my carry guns. They reach a point where they appear dry and they still have lube that will heat up and do it's job, but I like to keep metal on metal wet. I just put a coating of Otis bio CLP on my truck gun because it was getting dry and dingy now it's wet again.

**1168** · 12-08-20, 11:58

Any of you guys that are into froglube and fireclean ever try cooking oils like peanut oil? I’ve been curious as to if it’ll get nasty quickly if I were to use it in a pinch.