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Thread: Polymer Lower Receivers? Final Verdict.

  1. #31
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    Buy yourself a 3d printer...$300, and make as many lowers as you need, when you need them.

    Will they last forever? No, although the designs and materials get better all the time. No need for a boating accident when you can shred a lower in 5 minutes and have a new one, in a few hours at any time of your choosing.

    In a non permissive environment, it doesnt pay to be too attached to "stuff"....use it and lose it....Serious rethink vs. how we normally look at the issue...


    One mans opinion.
    The truth can only offend those who live a lie.

  2. #32
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    I’m with everyone else in that I see no benefit to a polymer lower so long as aluminum ones are still available. Saving $20 isn’t a reason.

    However, it would be interesting to buy a mold kit for polymer lowers in the likely event that an AWB is passed and no new lowers are available but other parts still are. I know nothing about working with it, but if a guy could buy a 55 gallon drum of pellets, heat them in a turkey fryer or pot on a grill, and ladle them into some sort of “injection molding tube” that would force it into the mold via an air compressor, it might be worthwhile.

    Theoretically, in the event of a confiscation, people could hand over their stripped aluminum lowers and come buy a polymer replacement or 5 from you.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gatorgrizz27 View Post
    I’m with everyone else in that I see no benefit to a polymer lower so long as aluminum ones are still available. Saving $20 isn’t a reason.

    However, it would be interesting to buy a mold kit for polymer lowers in the likely event that an AWB is passed and no new lowers are available but other parts still are. I know nothing about working with it, but if a guy could buy a 55 gallon drum of pellets, heat them in a turkey fryer or pot on a grill, and ladle them into some sort of “injection molding tube” that would force it into the mold via an air compressor, it might be worthwhile.

    Theoretically, in the event of a confiscation, people could hand over their stripped aluminum lowers and come buy a polymer replacement or 5 from you.
    A desktop CNC would actually be more viable, and cheaper. Injection molding high quality parts is both expensive and technically challenging.

    3d printing on the other hand...you better believe you can print some highly functional lowers from Taulman Alloy 910 on a cheap Czechoslovakian printer. They're fugly as all getout because of the reinforcements needed, but it's been proven many times over that they'll take thousands of rounds without breaking.

  4. #34
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    Buy yourself a 3d printer...$300, and make as many lowers as you need, when you need them.
    With the way things are likely to go in the next 4 years, this might be the best option.
    "I am a Soldier. I fight where I'm told and I win where I fight." GEN George S. Patton, Jr.

  5. #35
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    Can't stop the signal. Become ungovernable....

    https://youtu.be/zXDRyfW-rzk
    The truth can only offend those who live a lie.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Esq. View Post
    Can't stop the signal. Become ungovernable....

    https://youtu.be/zXDRyfW-rzk
    Original embed FWIW


  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrgunsngear View Post
    Original embed FWIW

    Youtube just recommended me that the other day. Definitely worth watching!

  8. #38
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    I’ve had two complete poly lowers, a Plum Crazy & New Frontier. At the time they were $99 vs $250 for a comparable RRA.
    Both purchased as complete lowers with poly FCG, takedown pins, etc.
    The New Frontier hammer started to disintegrate after a few years & double tap.
    The front takedown retention pin snapped. Can’t remember which one.
    The threads on the New Frontier grip screw came out. A dab of gorilla glue kept it functional but overall not worth it.
    I know some of the newer ‘improved’ poly lowers are using metal inserts but I don’t see the logic. I ran a poly lower on my lightweight BCM 14.5” pinned upper vs a RRA lower and while the scale did show a minimal weight difference, the perceived difference was zero.

    Now comparing a std. A2 lower setup to a Cav Arms is a big weight savings but you can also stay light with an ACE skeleton or a Hogue stock.

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