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Thread: Bulk 556 Brass prep and reloading process

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNTall View Post
    Thanks for the great post! Very helpful tips. I like your idea for feeling for the neck tension to check for cracks.

    So besides low or high powder charge what reloading issue can cause you to lose a finger or an eye? The XL650 has a powder check station to alarm for that condition.
    To my knowledge, squibs and overcharged cases are the issue here. I'd probably be happy with the powder check if things look good on the chronograph.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by opngrnd View Post
    To my knowledge, squibs and overcharged cases are the issue here. I'd probably be happy with the powder check if things look good on the chronograph.
    OK. I really only have experience single-stage loading for bolt guns, so I don't know how much to be concerned about bullets unseating or primers blowing out.

  3. #23
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    Reloading 1000 .223 takes me about 17 hours.

    If I start with pre-processed brass it's about 5 hours and I can do it all on a Dillon.

    Save 12 hours for $150....? Two words for yas: "Worth it". BUT.......

    I have yet to get processed brass that is 100% up to snuff. It's super convenient, and it's good enough for a lot of uses, but I conclude they are all using the same trimming rig and if I want perfection (and I do, or I'm not going to the trouble), I always have to deburr the case mouths inside and out. Also I universally find that they are using a push-in expander in a separate operation, going by how the necks look-- not expanded quite all the way to the neck/shoulder junction, and where the larger, expanded diameter stops, you can see that the expanding happened more on one side than the other. Not nearly as heinous as it sounds, it's pretty subtle and in the overall scheme of things / many applications, it would not matter. But I don't go to the effort of loading my own to make fodder-grade ammo for 7-yard drills..... I want my handloads to be at least somewhat up to target-grade.

    My last run (4-5 years ago) was mixed brass (bought processed) with Nosler 77's and Hornady 75's. I loaded on the slightly mild side to accommodate the mixed brass. When I wanted to maximize precision I would go through several handfulls and separate headstamps but even without that this ammo was good enough for whangin' steel at 500. This stuff was 1 1/4 MOA ammo, sometimes better, rarely over and then not by much.

    After asking around I found a place that would process my own brass and return it. That was important to me because I like knowing what ammo the brass comes from and what guns it was shot in. I had occasion to generate 2000 Lake City empties one afternoon this summer and wanted to get it processed and returned as opposed to "trading" it for 2000 processed cases of unknown provenance. msporcessedbrass.com made it pretty convenient to get this done and the price was good, seems like it was under $100, not sure. It came back pretty quick and it does appear to be the same brass I sent, yay. I DO still have to deburr every case mouth and I will also go through and clean every primer pocket. The brass is super clean and shiny but looks like their tumbling process does not get into primer pockets.

    A question for you wet-tumbling guys. What is the preferred one-time purchase of the whole business required to do say 500 .223's at a time? I bought some stainless pins and rigged a .50-cal ammo box so I could spin it in the lathe but at my slowest speed of 60 RPM it didn't really work.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNTall View Post
    Why do yall separate the size and neck size steps? I've always used a full length size die with neck expander in one.
    So as to not subject the brass to unnecessary stress as brass will work-harden.

    If you haven't already, I'd look into in a turret press as loading bulk on a single stage takes much too long. Personally, I like the Redding T7 but do my own bulk reloading on a Hornady LnL.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ned Christiansen View Post
    Reloading 1000 .223 takes me about 17 hours.

    If I start with pre-processed brass it's about 5 hours and I can do it all on a Dillon.

    Save 12 hours for $150....? Two words for yas: "Worth it". BUT.......

    I have yet to get processed brass that is 100% up to snuff. It's super convenient, and it's good enough for a lot of uses, but I conclude they are all using the same trimming rig and if I want perfection (and I do, or I'm not going to the trouble), I always have to deburr the case mouths inside and out. Also I universally find that they are using a push-in expander in a separate operation, going by how the necks look-- not expanded quite all the way to the neck/shoulder junction, and where the larger, expanded diameter stops, you can see that the expanding happened more on one side than the other. Not nearly as heinous as it sounds, it's pretty subtle and in the overall scheme of things / many applications, it would not matter. But I don't go to the effort of loading my own to make fodder-grade ammo for 7-yard drills..... I want my handloads to be at least somewhat up to target-grade.

    My last run (4-5 years ago) was mixed brass (bought processed) with Nosler 77's and Hornady 75's. I loaded on the slightly mild side to accommodate the mixed brass. When I wanted to maximize precision I would go through several handfulls and separate headstamps but even without that this ammo was good enough for whangin' steel at 500. This stuff was 1 1/4 MOA ammo, sometimes better, rarely over and then not by much.

    After asking around I found a place that would process my own brass and return it. That was important to me because I like knowing what ammo the brass comes from and what guns it was shot in. I had occasion to generate 2000 Lake City empties one afternoon this summer and wanted to get it processed and returned as opposed to "trading" it for 2000 processed cases of unknown provenance. msporcessedbrass.com made it pretty convenient to get this done and the price was good, seems like it was under $100, not sure. It came back pretty quick and it does appear to be the same brass I sent, yay. I DO still have to deburr every case mouth and I will also go through and clean every primer pocket. The brass is super clean and shiny but looks like their tumbling process does not get into primer pockets.

    A question for you wet-tumbling guys. What is the preferred one-time purchase of the whole business required to do say 500 .223's at a time? I bought some stainless pins and rigged a .50-cal ammo box so I could spin it in the lathe but at my slowest speed of 60 RPM it didn't really work.
    Thanks for the guidance. Couple of questions:
    1 If the Dillon powder filler bells the case mouth, and the case is crimped back after seating, why is a deburr necessary?
    2 Do you only clean out primer pockets on brass you've never prepped before?

  6. #26
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    There's no belling of the case mouth for powder dropping and I don't crimp.

    I clean out all primer pockets every time on rifle ammo. Probably could get away without it.

  7. #27
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    Pretty much my process, except I have a WFT2 trimmer, not Giraud.

    For plinking I will actually run on a progressive press-I check weight of powder every 10 rounds just to be sure my Hornady is throwing correct charges.. For precision, I will use my RockChucker in batches of 50.
    Quote Originally Posted by markm View Post
    I like to punch primers before anything else. I then tumble in wet/stainless steel media. Dry, lube, size with no expander ball, neck size with a neck expander die, dry tumble in the vibratory.

    Then I trim (giraud) and the brass is ready for whatever priming and loading from there.
    ETC (SW/AW), USN (1998-2008)
    CVN-65, USS Enterprise

  8. #28
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    Tell me about the WFT vs the Giraud....I just picked up a WFT and am curious.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrowCommand View Post
    Tell me about the WFT vs the Giraud....I just picked up a WFT and am curious.
    I haven’t used the WFT, but my experience with the Giraud Power Trimmer has been good. If you’re going to trim a high volume of cases, it’s the way to go. From the motor, belt, to the case holder and trimmer, it’s well designed. When I had questions about it’s proper setup and caliber changes, I just called them and the owner’s wife answered all my questions.

    Caliber changes probably take about 15-20 minutes to adjust the case holder and blade. If you want convenience, just order another cutter head for different calibers, I.e. .223 to .308.

    IMO it’s expensive for what it does, but it works, and works well. It’s heavy and very stout. You’d probably end up passing it to your kids. I’ve never bogged it down and the clear window makes it easy to monitor the trimming and brass chips being collected.

    There’s a few YouTube videos out there if you want to see it in operation:

    https://youtu.be/wRiFBHUYLr0

  10. #30
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    I looked at the Giraud Power Trimmer, but decided to not spend the money. I attached a cordless drill to the drive shaft of the RCBS Trim Pro manual case trimmer and I can trim a lot of cases in a short period of time. With the RCBS 3-way cutter you don't have to worry about deburring the case mouths on the brass after it's trimmed.
    Last edited by T2C; 12-29-20 at 21:12.
    Train 2 Win

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