Argh...I broke my DBAL!

[just a scout]

Best spot to mount it? 12 o’clock?


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[Lowdown3]

Best spot to mount it? 12 o’clock?


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Doesn't have to be.

Almost all of our family's lasers are mounted sideways. Never had a problem going that route.

[kerplode]

Steiner approved my RMA, so it’s on its way back to the mothership for repair. 4-6+ weeks.

[kerplode]

Quick update: Steiner repaired the laser under warranty with no questions asked and no drama. I got it back on 3/4, so 55 days end to end...Closer to 8 weeks than 4-6, but whatcha gonna do.

So now, the question is should I continue to use the fancy TAPS and risk busting it again, or just bail on that and skip slaving the vis laser to the white light. I'll have to think about that. Honestly, I'm not sure I trust either the DBAL or the TAPS anymore. At the end of the day, I'm just LARPing with this stuff anyway, so maybe it doesn't matter.

I wonder if squirting some dielectric grease into the socket before plugging that fat-ass TAPS plug in there would keep things lube enough that I could get it apart again down the line without wrecking everything? Anyone ever tried that?

[RHINOWSO]

Glad to hear it. I had an adjustment screw for the illuminator come out, but I was able to get it reinstalled.

[ncalphadog]

Received my DBAL-A3 back from Steiner on February 2nd. It came back fully repaired, and looking like new. Fully covered under warranty. Works fine with the remotes that are supplied with the device, as well as the Unity TAPS. I’m still hesitant to try the Mini Mod Button, which is the one that pulled the socket out of the body when I attempted to remove it.



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[Lowdown3]

Glad to hear they are doing warranty work a little ahead of their estimates (I've heard much worse time frames).

[kerplode]

So I asked Unity customer support about putting dielectric grease on the TAPS plugs. They said that they will sometimes recommend that for the Surefire plug, but that they do not recommend that it be used on the Crane plug for the laser.

Instead, they suggest this:

If you experience notable resistance when removing a Unity Tactical or other remote switch plug from your laser device, DO NOT use force to unplug the cable without properly supporting the socket by using a non-metallic shim to separate the plug from the socket or you may risk damaging your device. If you encounter an issue with an excessively tight port, please contact the manufacturer of your laser device for assistance.

Seems to me, if you need some kind of a lever tool to separate their shitty plug without wrecking your laser, they should have included it.

Anyway, that switch is now dead to me.

[Mike Miller]

I don't understand why they say to contact the laser manufacturer for an aftermarket plug being tight.

As part of the description for the TAPS Sync, they advertise that they intentionally made it tighter than the factory plug. If tighter is too tight, why are they putting the burden on Steiner to address this?

I have a TAPS Sync as well, and it's definitely tighter.

intentionally tighter so that they don't come loose under recoil https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/N...3758/#i5186966

[Lowdown3]

I don't understand why they say to contact the laser manufacturer for an aftermarket plug being tight.

As part of the description for the TAPS Sync, they advertise that they intentionally made it tighter than the factory plug. If tighter is too tight, why are they putting the burden on Steiner to address this?

I have a TAPS Sync as well, and it's definitely tighter.

intentionally tighter so that they don't come loose under recoil https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/N...3758/#i5186966

Interesting.