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Thread: Daniel Defense factory lube

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ta0117 View Post
    What kind of lubrication does DD have when shipped from the factory? Just picked up a DDM4 V9, my first AR, but don't have any lube on hand since the shop was out of stock, and wonder if it's advisable to shoot right out of the box, maybe 50-100 rounds. Would that have any undue wear and tear? It's not really wet but it's not entirely dry either.


    Lucas Gun Oil, Walmart, Auto Zone, O'REILLY Auto parts

    Wilson Combat, Really like their lubricants too.
    POW-MIA, #22untilnone
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  2. #22
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    Our rifles and uppers leave the factory with a preservative applied which helps displace moisture while stored in the case and poly bag. It's good practice, and I always advice customers, to field strip the firearm, give it a good wipe down, and apply lubrication to the critical operating components.

    S/F

    Joe
    Joe Marler
    Law Enforcement Sales Manager

    jmarler@danieldefense.com
    www.danieldefense.com

  3. #23
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    Never had a problem with CLP. Occasionally I use Hoppes no.9 to clean the bore.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marler5811 View Post
    Our rifles and uppers leave the factory with a preservative applied which helps displace moisture while stored in the case and poly bag. It's good practice, and I always advice customers, to field strip the firearm, give it a good wipe down, and apply lubrication to the critical operating components.

    S/F

    Joe
    Thanks. I fired about 100 rounds before I got some CLP, the gun ran without any issues with whatever was on it from the factory. Of course I have now wiped it down and gave it some CLP.

    I'm surprised DD uses a dedicated preservative on guns that leave the factory. Usually, gun lube itself should be able to help "preserve" and displace water, unless that's somehow not enough?

    On another note, what is the diameter of the gas port? My V9 has a 16" barrel with a midlength system, and it seems pretty pleasant to shoot. The Fiocchi 55 grain .223 was ejecting somewhat behind me.
    Last edited by ta0117; 01-30-21 at 23:27.

  5. #25
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    How To Lube Your AR-15 (Very Important)!

    People speak of running AR-15’s “wet” but this is not the way to go at all. An AR has gas blow back and gas with particulate matter gets back into the inside of the upper receiver, the bolt carrier, etc. Having a wet sloppy mess of oil and grease in there does nothing but provide a trap for a big grungy mess to form and clog things up.

    The right type of lubrication needs only be applied where there is metal to metal contact of moving parts - any more is a potential cause for problems. You don't want gobs of oil and grease shooting and squirting all around inside your rifle as it cycles, sending lube into places where it does not belong (i.e. down in the magazines, on the bullets themselves, up inside the chamber, back into the buffer tube assembly).

    Would you indiscriminantly hose down the inside of your car's engine compartment and the drive train underneath your car with lube and oil? No!

    On lubrication, about 95% of all "gun" lubricants out there are not appropriate for an AR. For the bolt lugs in particular you need a very high viscosity sticky lubricant because the lugs are a "severe duty" application in that they open fast under pressure and get very hard use otherwise. Most greases are no good because they don't stay around. The best lubricant I have found is Phil Wood Tenacious Oil (it's like a sticky 90 wt. gear oil) and you can buy it for $8 or so at your local bicycle shop or on the internet in its own applicator bottle. I have built up a lot of AR's over the years and seen others come back for re-barreling or other work. Some have an enormous amount of bolt wear (and a corresponding dramatic increase in head space) because inadequate lubricant was used. The owners thought they were using a good product, but it was not. A lot of the favorites are no good either (and I am not going to name names).

    Some parts not to lubricate at all: 1. The firing pin (don't need anything to impede the pin making a good strike on the primer); and 2. The buffer or the buffer spring assembly (unless you want your rifle to possibly malfunction and short stroke); 3. If you are going to be shooting in very cold weather, keep the lubricant off the lateral riding surfaces on the outside of your bolt carrier or it can slow the carrier down enough so the rifle will short stroke. Above about 20 degrees F, that's not an issue typically.

    The areas that always need it: 1. The rear of the bolt lugs (severe duty – must do, but only need a little bit on the back of each lug); 2. The cam pin (another severe duty place, put around the pin just below the head of the pin); 3. The very back of the bolt behind the gas rings (the .250” diameter stem) where it rides in and out of the carrier; and 4. The gas rings; and 5. The lateral riding surfaces on the outside of the bolt carrier, except in very cold weather (like below 20 degrees Fahrenheit) where high viscosity lube can slow down the carrier and possibly cause the rifle to short stroke).

  6. #26
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    CLP is mediocre at best.

    You can shoot a rifle dry if you have to, so if it even looks damp you're fine. If not, just slather something on it. Only takes a few drops, so don't need to go nuts looking for something.

    Fiocchi is fine.

    Don't get caught up in where brass ejects.
    Last edited by Caduceus; 02-01-21 at 19:50.

  7. #27
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    Lube thread

  8. #28
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    How does lubricating the buffer and spring cause short stroking? I’m not advocating one way or another on that; just curious.

    I feel like this post has some good info mixed with some myths.

    Quote Originally Posted by rcoodyar15 View Post
    How To Lube Your AR-15 (Very Important)!

    People speak of running AR-15’s “wet” but this is not the way to go at all. An AR has gas blow back and gas with particulate matter gets back into the inside of the upper receiver, the bolt carrier, etc. Having a wet sloppy mess of oil and grease in there does nothing but provide a trap for a big grungy mess to form and clog things up.

    The right type of lubrication needs only be applied where there is metal to metal contact of moving parts - any more is a potential cause for problems. You don't want gobs of oil and grease shooting and squirting all around inside your rifle as it cycles, sending lube into places where it does not belong (i.e. down in the magazines, on the bullets themselves, up inside the chamber, back into the buffer tube assembly).

    Would you indiscriminantly hose down the inside of your car's engine compartment and the drive train underneath your car with lube and oil? No!

    On lubrication, about 95% of all "gun" lubricants out there are not appropriate for an AR. For the bolt lugs in particular you need a very high viscosity sticky lubricant because the lugs are a "severe duty" application in that they open fast under pressure and get very hard use otherwise. Most greases are no good because they don't stay around. The best lubricant I have found is Phil Wood Tenacious Oil (it's like a sticky 90 wt. gear oil) and you can buy it for $8 or so at your local bicycle shop or on the internet in its own applicator bottle. I have built up a lot of AR's over the years and seen others come back for re-barreling or other work. Some have an enormous amount of bolt wear (and a corresponding dramatic increase in head space) because inadequate lubricant was used. The owners thought they were using a good product, but it was not. A lot of the favorites are no good either (and I am not going to name names).

    Some parts not to lubricate at all: 1. The firing pin (don't need anything to impede the pin making a good strike on the primer); and 2. The buffer or the buffer spring assembly (unless you want your rifle to possibly malfunction and short stroke); 3. If you are going to be shooting in very cold weather, keep the lubricant off the lateral riding surfaces on the outside of your bolt carrier or it can slow the carrier down enough so the rifle will short stroke. Above about 20 degrees F, that's not an issue typically.

    The areas that always need it: 1. The rear of the bolt lugs (severe duty – must do, but only need a little bit on the back of each lug); 2. The cam pin (another severe duty place, put around the pin just below the head of the pin); 3. The very back of the bolt behind the gas rings (the .250” diameter stem) where it rides in and out of the carrier; and 4. The gas rings; and 5. The lateral riding surfaces on the outside of the bolt carrier, except in very cold weather (like below 20 degrees Fahrenheit) where high viscosity lube can slow down the carrier and possibly cause the rifle to short stroke).
    RLTW

    Former Action Guy
    Disclosure: I am affiliated PRN with a tactical training center, but I speak only for myself. I have no idea what we sell, other than CLP and training. I receive no income from sale of hard goods.

  9. #29
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    If you are worried about it motor oil will work fine, some guys use motor oil all the time. I think you could get away temporarily with 3-in-1 oil for that matter. ARs are NOT picky, you could probably get away with ear wax in a pinch LOL. You could use Canola oil in a pinch, just don't let it sit for days with vegetable oil on it, it gets sticky. Bearing grease would work, just clean it and go back to a regular gun oil afterward.

    You absolutely don't need Daniel Defense branded oil.

    For regular gun oil I still like SLIP 2000 EWL. And I use moly grease on bearing surfaces or Brownnell's Action lube (same thing)
    Last edited by ScottsBad; 02-08-21 at 11:16.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcoodyar15 View Post
    How To Lube Your AR-15 (Very Important)!

    People speak of running AR-15’s “wet” but this is not the way to go at all. An AR has gas blow back and gas with particulate matter gets back into the inside of the upper receiver, the bolt carrier, etc. Having a wet sloppy mess of oil and grease in there does nothing but provide a trap for a big grungy mess to form and clog things up.

    The right type of lubrication needs only be applied where there is metal to metal contact of moving parts - any more is a potential cause for problems. You don't want gobs of oil and grease shooting and squirting all around inside your rifle as it cycles, sending lube into places where it does not belong (i.e. down in the magazines, on the bullets themselves, up inside the chamber, back into the buffer tube assembly).

    Would you indiscriminantly hose down the inside of your car's engine compartment and the drive train underneath your car with lube and oil? No!

    On lubrication, about 95% of all "gun" lubricants out there are not appropriate for an AR. For the bolt lugs in particular you need a very high viscosity sticky lubricant because the lugs are a "severe duty" application in that they open fast under pressure and get very hard use otherwise. Most greases are no good because they don't stay around. The best lubricant I have found is Phil Wood Tenacious Oil (it's like a sticky 90 wt. gear oil) and you can buy it for $8 or so at your local bicycle shop or on the internet in its own applicator bottle. I have built up a lot of AR's over the years and seen others come back for re-barreling or other work. Some have an enormous amount of bolt wear (and a corresponding dramatic increase in head space) because inadequate lubricant was used. The owners thought they were using a good product, but it was not. A lot of the favorites are no good either (and I am not going to name names).

    Some parts not to lubricate at all: 1. The firing pin (don't need anything to impede the pin making a good strike on the primer); and 2. The buffer or the buffer spring assembly (unless you want your rifle to possibly malfunction and short stroke); 3. If you are going to be shooting in very cold weather, keep the lubricant off the lateral riding surfaces on the outside of your bolt carrier or it can slow the carrier down enough so the rifle will short stroke. Above about 20 degrees F, that's not an issue typically.

    The areas that always need it: 1. The rear of the bolt lugs (severe duty – must do, but only need a little bit on the back of each lug); 2. The cam pin (another severe duty place, put around the pin just below the head of the pin); 3. The very back of the bolt behind the gas rings (the .250” diameter stem) where it rides in and out of the carrier; and 4. The gas rings; and 5. The lateral riding surfaces on the outside of the bolt carrier, except in very cold weather (like below 20 degrees Fahrenheit) where high viscosity lube can slow down the carrier and possibly cause the rifle to short stroke).
    Try this...https://youtu.be/p9bOT_d60LM




    Last edited by ScottsBad; 02-08-21 at 11:25.

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