Newb loading / reloading questions

[Ron3]

I haven't bought any equipment yet and I realize this isn't the best time to start and components are hard to find and expensive.

So I'm just pre-planning here.

I'm interested in loading pistol calibers I like that are expensive even in the best of times.

1. .32 h&r Magnum (fmj bullets preferred. And it's always expensive)

2. 7.65×17 mm / .32 acp (to load a little hotter like Fiocchi and S&B do)

3. .44 Russian. (It's just fun to shoot. Always expensive just like .44 Special. Like the more efficient, short cases that eject easier than .44 Special.

4. .38 ACP / Super, if I ever get a .38 Super 1911 pistol.

5. .45 GAP. Acquiring one and ammo was never widespread available.

I'd like to know if any of these are particularly troublesome to load or reload.

And, do they have anything in common? For example; can they share primers or powders?

I'm just trying to learn everything I can before I buy anything. It's just what I do before I jump in.

Thanks.

[chadbag]

For powder questions, you can look up sample loads for each of these online (using bullet manufacturers sample loads as well as powder manufacturer data) and compare to see which ones share data across the same powder or sets of powders.

For primers, in general there are 4 kinds of pistol primers. Large and Small, and standard and magnum of each. So these will all use one of those 4 sorts of primers -- the loading data you look at to look for common powders should also show recommended primer size and type.

(BTW: I have a 45 GAP case gauge for sale in the EE -- case gauge is useful to test loaded rounds to make sure they are within spec, more or less)

[matemike]

With 5 different handgun cartridges to load you’ll probably find many similarities like primers, powders, and even bases to set the case in when de-priming, sizing, priming, and pressing.

If you haven’t already just go to a gun shop and pick up the latest reloading manuals by Hornady, Speer or others. That will get you started on cross referencing powders and primers. Looks like all your cases and bullets will be different though.

Just a quick glance in my Speer #14 manual I see that 32 H&R Mag, 44 Russian, and 45 GAP all have some same powders being

Unique
H. Universal
Bullseye
231
AA No 2 Imp.
AA No 5

all for several different bullet weights.

32 H&R and 45 GAP both use CCI 500 primers.

44 russian uses CCI 300 primers.

That should be a good start for you. Did not come across 7.65×17 mm or .38 ACP in my manual. there was 32 auto if that is what you mean by 32 acp, and it too uses CCI 500 primers. Seriously, go buy a book, you're gonna need it anyways.

[Ron3]

Thanks, guys!

[Bret]

32H&R Magnum and 44 Russian are both revolver cartridges while the rest are straight walled semiauto cartridges. The case length of the revolver cartridges is critical because you'll need to apply roll crimps at the case mouths. The cases typically have to be trimmed each time you reload them because revolver cases tend to grow in length each time they're shot. Straight walled semiauto cases tend to shrink in length each time they're shot and case length isn't as critical.

Definitely get a manual as previously suggested. For the guns that you already have, keep you spent cases sorted by headstamp and even lot if you can. This reduces variables when you reload.

[Ron3]

32H&R Magnum and 44 Russian are both revolver cartridges while the rest are straight walled semiauto cartridges. The case length of the revolver cartridges is critical because you'll need to apply roll crimps at the case mouths. The cases typically have to be trimmed each time you reload them because revolver cases tend to grow in length each time they're shot. Straight walled semiauto cases tend to shrink in length each time they're shot and case length isn't as critical.

Definitely get a manual as previously suggested. For the guns that you already have, keep you spent cases sorted by headstamp and even lot if you can. This reduces variables when you reload.

Interesting.

Shorter cases dont matter much in auto's? But that's how they headspace. 🤔

[Bret]

Shorter cases dont matter much in auto's? But that's how they headspace. ��

In theory straight walled semiauto cartridges are supposed to headspace on the case mouth. In reality, they usually headspace on the extractor.

[Bimmer]

I'm interested in loading pistol calibers I like that are expensive even in the best of times.

And, do they have anything in common? For example; can they share primers or powders?

You're going about this the right way...

FWIW, when things are "normal," there's not much point in loading your own 9mm or .223/5.56 ball ammo.

With 5 different handgun cartridges to load you’ll probably find many similarities like primers, powders, and even bases to set the case in when de-priming, sizing, priming, and pressing.

If you haven’t already just go to a gun shop and pick up the latest reloading manuals by Hornady, Speer or others

It's heresy, I know, but I've been reloading for 25+ years, and I've never bought a reloading manual. I've bought the "load books" that are caliber specific...

For powder questions, you can look up sample loads for each of these online (using bullet manufacturers sample loads as well as powder manufacturer data) and compare to see which ones share data across the same powder or sets of powders.

This is what I do...

My advice: Pick one powder (or at most two powders) that you should be able to use for all of these.

Example: I started back in the day using Unique for both .380ACP and .40S&W, and it turns out that it can be used in just about any handgun round...

(I'm not recommending Unique, which I find dirty, but simply using it as an example of a do-anything powder.)

The case length of the revolver cartridges is critical because you'll need to apply roll crimps at the case mouths. The cases typically have to be trimmed each time you reload them because revolver cases tend to grow in length each time they're shot.

For the guns that you already have, keep you spent cases sorted by headstamp and even lot if you can.

I think this is overkill... I don't do any of this.

If you just want to load functioning ammo so that you can shoot these oddball cartridges, then just load "mixed" headstamps.

If you want to win bullseye matches or really push the velocity/energy envelope, then maybe this is worth doing...

[Bret]

I think this is overkill... I don't do any of this.

If you just want to load functioning ammo so that you can shoot these oddball cartridges, then just load "mixed" headstamps.

If you want to win bullseye matches or really push the velocity/energy envelope, then maybe this is worth doing...

I've been loading for 25+ years and always sort my brass. The quality of what I produce is better than what I could produce with mixed headstamps. To your point, I may not be a good enough shot for it to matter, but sorted brass makes it easier to avoid potential problems. Would you rather buy ammunition made with mixed headstamp brass or brass that's all from the same manufacturer and lot? I'd suggest starting with sorted brass and then perhaps try unsorted later if keeping it sorted seems to be an issue. Then you'll know if keeping them sorted is worth it to you or not. I've never had an issue keeping my brass sorted to begin with, so the benefits far outweigh the effort.

[Bimmer]

I may not be a good enough shot for it to matter, but sorted brass makes it easier to avoid potential problems.

I agree with this... I depends on what/why I'm reloading.

95% of the reloading I do is light pistol loads for plinking, "training," or not-very-competitive matches. Sorting by headstamp would be a PITA, and it doesn't seem necessary.

Loading hot for 10mm Mag (NB: Mag, not Auto) is different... It's all Starline brass, because that's all I have.

And for precision rifle rounds I'll sort brass, of course...