Newb loading / reloading questions

[Coal Dragger]

Does anyone know if you could use a small magnum pistol primer in place of a small rifle primer ? I am reloading .223 and just exhausted my small rifle primer supply but have plenty of SMPP's. Please advise ?

No absolutely not. Small rifle primers have a thicker cup to deal with rifle pressures, you run a strong risk of popping primers and cratered primers if you run a pistol primer of any kind in place of a rifle primer.

[meausoc]

No absolutely not. Small rifle primers have a thicker cup to deal with rifle pressures, you run a strong risk of popping primers and cratered primers if you run a pistol primer of any kind in place of a rifle primer.

Thank you for clarifying, definitely not worth the risk.

[Chubbs103]

Question #4. Loading auto pistol rounds without a die such as the LCFCD is dumb, isn't it? Because won't that lead to stoppages? This is a concern because Lee does not make a LCFCD for the .25 acp.

I've been reloading for a couple of decades now. I have never even held a Lee FCD in my hands, and my ammunition chambers just fine. I also keep learning new things about our little hobby. One thing I have learned is discussions about the FCD can turn unpleasant pretty quick. I have never found a standard three die set to be deficient (although at times I seat and crimp in separate steps). Some people have had issues with their reloads and use a FCD.

Your barrel (removed from the pistol) or can tell you what you need to know about OAL and crimp for your semi-auto. Google the "plunk" test.

Everything in this little hobby seems overwhelming until you pull the handle a few times. A mentor really helps, but I learned everything from the ABCs of Reloading and the front half of the Lyman reloading manual. It has to be easier with YouTube. I still advise you to buy a couple of manuals.

One thing almost every reloader can't get enough of is light. If you are dealing with little tiny cases like .25 and .32, you are going to need really good light over your bench. Regardless if you are using a single stage or progressive press, make a habit of looking in every single case for powder.

[Ron3]

I've been reloading for a couple of decades now. I have never even held a Lee FCD in my hands, and my ammunition chambers just fine. I also keep learning new things about our little hobby. One thing I have learned is discussions about the FCD can turn unpleasant pretty quick. I have never found a standard three die set to be deficient (although at times I seat and crimp in separate steps). Some people have had issues with their reloads and use a FCD.

Your barrel (removed from the pistol) or can tell you what you need to know about OAL and crimp for your semi-auto. Google the "plunk" test.

Everything in this little hobby seems overwhelming until you pull the handle a few times. A mentor really helps, but I learned everything from the ABCs of Reloading and the front half of the Lyman reloading manual. It has to be easier with YouTube. I still advise you to buy a couple of manuals.

One thing almost every reloader can't get enough of is light. If you are dealing with little tiny cases like .25 and .32, you are going to need really good light over your bench. Regardless if you are using a single stage or progressive press, make a habit of looking in every single case for powder.

Thanks for the advice.

I do have a Lee manual. Starting off with the Lee Classic Turret press with the Lee primer / powder devices included in the kit. Good tip about light.

The wife and I just picked out a solid bench for mounting the press and we'll have space around it for lighting, keeping components nearby, storage, etc.

I read good things about the Lyman manual.

Strange how some say the Lee Factory Crimp Die isn't needed, others say yes for auto rounds, no for revolver rounds, yet others say it's almost always desirable to use one.

[gaijin]

I'm a little confused about Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Dies.

I have a .44 Russian die set and a .32 S&W Long/Magnum set on the way.

I didn't think I needed the Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die because these are revolver rounds and the die sets do a roll crimp already.

Then I learned the LCFCD also proof-sizes the cases so they fit in and out of the chambers properly with just gravity. (Not having to push them in or pull them out) I want to make nice ammo, not ill-fitting junk.

So I've ordered LCFCD's for both my die sets.

Question #1. Will I adjust my bullet seating / crimping die so they only seat bullets? Nobody mentions that but it makes sense to me because the LCFCD will be doing the crimping now.

New topic: OAL

I'm considering loading .32 acp and .25 acp eventually, too. Some of my .25's have issues with bullets engaging the rifleing when chambered, thus making it so I have to poke the bullet from the muzzle to remove an unfired cartridge. (No extractor) This only happens with some brands, so I don't buy those anymore but have them.

Question #2. How can I avoid this when loading my own ammunition? Set the bullet back, right?

Question #3. I adjust the bullet seating die to set the depth of the seating and thus overall length, right?

Question #4. Loading auto pistol rounds without a die such as the LCFCD is dumb, isn't it? Because won't that lead to stoppages? This is a concern because Lee does not make a LCFCD for the .25 acp.

And no, no luck on primers.

1.) yes
2.) yes- deeper
3.) yes
4.) no
Before there was a Lee FCD there were Taper and Roll Crimp dies. Although Roll Crimp were used nearly exclusively on revolver cartridges, I have seen Roll used on pistol cartridges as well.

[Ron3]

Thanks!

I may not need the .32 S&W Long / .32 Mag and .44 Russian / Spl / Mag LFC dies but I'll have them should I want to use them.

When I first get the press mounted up the first thing I'll do is make some dummy rounds to practice setting the dies. (No primers anyway) I'm not using the LFC die until I think I might need it.

[Bret]

I'm not using the LFC die until I think I might need it.

If you're doing things right, you'll never need it.

[AndyLate]

The possible disadvantage of the pistol LFC dies is the ring in the bottom of the die that "sizes the case". If the ring is too small to pass the case with the bullet seated, it will compress the bullet and case. The brass case springs back and then your bullet is undersize and neck tension poor. It is mainly a concern for cast bullets, but IMHO a standard pistol taper crimp die is superior to the Lee FCD.

[Ron3]

Thanks guys.

I have or have coming everything I need except extra turrets for the press, maybe a second manual, and primers.

[Ron3]

What do you do when you can't find load data for what you want to do?

For example, I have .44 Russian cases, 200 gr lead bullets, CFE pistol and 700X powders.

I can't find load data except one exception: LoadData.com.

Should I just go ahead and pay for access? Is it good info?

Could I do something like, use 240 gr bullet data for .44 Special to get close to the case capacity of a 200 gr bullet in a .44 Russian case?

I see 700x numbers with .44 SPL dancing all around 3.5-6 grs so it would seem I couldn't go wrong starting at about 4.3 grs.