Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20

Thread: Kimber, cost to ditch the MIM?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    219
    Feedback Score
    9 (100%)
    replacing those internal parts WILL require fitting. BTDT so figure the parts plus a quality gunsmith's time to fit.

    ETA: slide stop probably wont require fitting
    Last edited by supersix4; 12-06-08 at 12:45.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    A-stan or MI or _________
    Posts
    3,652
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    Without getting into the MIM debate, suppose one was looking to replace all of the MIM internals in a Series I Kimber with tool-steel parts. What would you expect to pay for this including parts and labor?

    Let's assume that you're OK with the grip safety being made of MIM, but that the following parts should be changed:
    -Disconnector
    -Sear
    -Hammer
    -Slide Stop
    -Thumb Safety
    -Any and all pins (not sure if Kimber uses MIM here, but assume that they pins need to be changed anyway)
    Rob, I'm doing the exact same thing right now to a 2005 Warrior. I didn't have a problem with it before but I wanted to remove all MIM parts.
    All I will have left Kimber will be the Frame, Slide, Barrel.
    Let me see if I can find my price list for everything. I tried to mirror 10-8 list of recommended parts.
    I know the cost is over $1,200.
    Praise be to the LORD my Rock, who trains my hands for war, my fingers for battle. Psalm 144:1

    Owner of MI-TAC, LLC .

    @MichiganTactical

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    A-stan or MI or _________
    Posts
    3,652
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Rob,
    Check your PM.
    Praise be to the LORD my Rock, who trains my hands for war, my fingers for battle. Psalm 144:1

    Owner of MI-TAC, LLC .

    @MichiganTactical

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    314
    Feedback Score
    0
    I didn't have a Series I, but I have a Custom II TLE that was a total problem child. I ended up getting it fixed (eventually) and then turned it into a project pistol. The only original parts are the barrel, bushing, grip safety and frame. The slide was replaced by Kimber in order to get the pistol to work properly, everything else I replaced and fitted myself.


    This is it in a former iteration. I've since changed the sights and the trigger.

    I wish I could recall what all that cost to replace, but its been a few years. What I DO remember is that between the cost of the pistol, the headache getting Kimber to get it to work correctly, the time involved while they dickered with the pistol (eventually admitting that their external extractor was the major culprit) and then replacing all the parts, I really should have bought a better pistol in the first place. It would have saved me time and money.
    Last edited by Federale; 12-06-08 at 13:21.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    SE FL
    Posts
    14,147
    Feedback Score
    5 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam View Post
    Why??? Your YB runs good by your admission and like they said, it's paid for. Who cares if it's $2k, unless you just want the difference in cash in your pocket.
    Difference in cash, or two pistols for the price of one

    Have you looked into the STI Trojan or Spartan? Those are around $1k and although cosmetically may not be perfect, I heard that they run like a sewing machine.
    Thinking along those lines, and thinking of doing it in 9mm actually. If I get the EB sold that's where the cash will go; into a 9mm STI Trojan with fixed rear sight.

    Or you can go 21st. century and get an M&P 45, runs right out of the box, 10+1, and around $500 if you look hard enough.
    That's most likely where the rest of the EB money will go.

    Unfortunately, my ultimate goal is to wind right back up where I started before I decided that what I had wasn't "good enough"; An all steel 5" to shoot and an aluminum frame 4" to carry. Albeit this time around the 5" will be 9mm.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    305
    Feedback Score
    1 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    Without getting into the MIM debate, suppose one was looking to replace all of the MIM internals in a Series I Kimber with tool-steel parts. What would you expect to pay for this including parts and labor?

    Let's assume that you're OK with the grip safety being made of MIM, but that the following parts should be changed:
    -Disconnector
    -Sear
    -Hammer
    -Slide Stop
    -Thumb Safety
    -Any and all pins (not sure if Kimber uses MIM here, but assume that they pins need to be changed anyway)
    from a Jan 2008 invoice...
    Ignition kit: $85 + $95 duty trigger job. I provided a trigger.
    Slide stop: $20 + $15 instl
    EB wide thumb safety: $30 + $60 to fit, recontour to medium width, & reblue.

    We also replaced the barrel bushing ($21+$34), ejector ($22+$35), firing-pin stop ($15+$20), and extractor ($42+$20).

    Working with two different 'smiths on two similar pistols, neither recommended replacing the pins.
    Aubrey<><

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    SE PA
    Posts
    250
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam View Post
    Just wondering if you're looking for that reliable 1911 for under $1K.
    Cylinder & Slide's trigger job kit was available through Brownells, I think they were under $150 for the 4.5lb range trigger break. I don't know if Brownells still sell them or not.

    A few years ago I found a great sale on a Springfield Milspec at Galyan's, out the cost to me was $390. I shot it as is out of the box for a few months and found it was reliable, 100%. The sights were serviceable, trigger heavy but manageable, the edges were not sharp like a razor but the most important thing was the gun just plain runs. The GI grip safety was biting a bit so I needed to get that fixed. After determining that the inside parts didn't need to be tinkered with (yes, I know there were MIMs throughout), I decided to have my 'smith do a slight makeover of the exterior.

    I like the look of the old school Heinie rear sight and since I carried the gun, I wanted a tritium front. The Wilson beavertail always felt comfortable to me, so that was added as well as a round commander style hammer. We replaced the trigger and I asked for a 4.5 lbs let off. I like the feel and cost of the Chip McCormick thumb safety. We also got rid of the trigger locking junks, so the mainspring housing was replaced with a Smith Alexander MSH with lanyard (for the old school look). The whole gun was parkerized.

    The whole work was around $500 give or take some change, thus the entire gun cost around $900 (3+ years ago).



    I regret that I no longer have this gun, sold it to a friend and it became his favorite carry gun after he had our 'smith bobtailed the gun.
    You did what I did. Last year I found a used but never fired Mil-Spec for $360. Shot it a bunch and sent it to the SA Custom Shop along with a 10-8 rear sight and long trigger. Had them fit a S&A beavertail and Swenson style thumb safety too. Also had a 4.5# trigger job done. They completely reparked the pistol free of charge. I sold it late last year to buy a G21SF. A couple of weeks ago I sold the G21SF to my brother. I happened to walk into my favorite shop and there was my Springfield. Someone had bought it and didn't fire it. The parkerizing was in the same condition I had sold it. I bought it back.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    SE FL
    Posts
    14,147
    Feedback Score
    5 (100%)
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob96 View Post
    You did what I did. Last year I found a used but never fired Mil-Spec for $360. Shot it a bunch and sent it to the SA Custom Shop along with a 10-8 rear sight and long trigger. Had them fit a S&A beavertail and Swenson style thumb safety too. Also had a 4.5# trigger job done. They completely reparked the pistol free of charge. I sold it late last year to buy a G21SF. A couple of weeks ago I sold the G21SF to my brother. I happened to walk into my favorite shop and there was my Springfield. Someone had bought it and didn't fire it. The parkerizing was in the same condition I had sold it. I bought it back.
    Out of curiosity, what did they charge you for all that? That might be another route for me to go. I even have the 10-8 trigger sitting in a box already, and a 10-8 sight sitting on gun that's not selling.
    Last edited by rob_s; 12-07-08 at 06:08.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    508
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)
    Rob - don't look over the parkerized springfield loaded. Not what you were originally thinking but the Kimber pre series II is harder to come by and will cost you more I think. I have a Kimber Compact pre series II and for a rugged beater I like my Loaded better. Kimber may come with a better barrel though.
    Brian Goode
    NC Knifemaker
    http://www.bgoodeknives.com

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    SE PA
    Posts
    250
    Feedback Score
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    Out of curiosity, what did they charge you for all that? That might be another route for me to go. I even have the 10-8 trigger sitting in a box already, and a 10-8 sight sitting on gun that's not selling.

    I am thinking I paid somewhere in the vicinity of $350-$375.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •