Leather conditioner

[TomMcC]

Any recommendation on a good leather conditioner/preservative? I recently got new sheaths for both my BAK7 and my hatchet. The hatchet sheath is in the raw and a bit stiff and tight. I think it needs to be soften up just a bit for a smoother fit.

[CRAMBONE]

I like Bicks and mink oil. And olive oil is an amazing leather preservative just don’t use it on leather that comes into contact with clothes.

[TomMcC]

I like Bicks and mink oil. And olive oil is an amazing leather preservative just don’t use it on leather that comes into contact with clothes.

Thanks. Mink oil I've heard of, Bick's I'll look up. I'll stay away from the olive oil since my knife and possibly my hatch sheath will come in contact with my clothes.

[just a scout]

I’ve been told Ballistol is really good for leather.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[matemike]

Sporting goods stores sell oil for baseball gloves. Also, a western wear store will have something for leather boots. Either would be good for a sheath.

[ndmiller]

Any recommendation on a good leather conditioner/preservative? I recently got new sheaths for both my BAK7 and my hatchet. The hatchet sheath is in the raw and a bit stiff and tight. I think it needs to be soften up just a bit for a smoother fit.

Bicks as mentioned is my goto for everything leather except sheaths just to restore leather oils and softness. While oil may soften the sheath as well, be careful as the sheath may stretch out and not fit the hatchet tightly enough.

For sheaths I use Obeanufs treatment very lightly. You can leave the leather item in the sun for a bit (inside or out) to warm it up and this will impregnate the leather with an oil/beeswax formula that conditions and protects against moisture and the elements. It's what firefighters use to protect their boots and gear. If you overuse it can become a gloppy mess that solidifies and comes off on your other gear.

[utahjeepr]

As all above. Mink oil, saddle soap, quality leather conditioners. Stay away from the synthetics.

[el_chupo_]

I use Obenaufs and Feibings Aussie. I like the Obenaufs oil, and use it for sheaths and axe covers. I try to work it inside as well as out, and I also add a little to the blade/bit and insert it, then remove and wipe off excess later, as it wont harm anything.

The Aussie is a paste (probably much like Obenaufs heavy duty, but I havent used that yet) and really needs the leather to be warm so it sort of "melts in". I rub this in thoroughly and let it sit so the friction and hand warmth works great, and if I have a chance I try to then heat it back up (sun or oven at low setting with a door open so it doesnt get above 120 or 130) to melt out any of the waxes and such. Rub that in again with a cloth to buff off any excess and I find it works great.

I find mink oil to be quite obnoxious to my sense of smell, so while I do use it occasionally, I generally stick with the above two, or boot conditioner I got from a Tandy Leather a while back for quick application.

[RugerMKII]

Saddle soap to clean with then use Neutral boot polish. Mink oil if you want to soften it a little.

[jsbhike]

Been awhile since I read the article, but I seem to recall the best choice of leather care may be dependent on how the leather was tanned along with how you want it to perform. An example, you wouldn't want a treatment that will make gloves soft and supple any where near a wet molded holster.