Strategy for dealing with rust in weapons

[czgunner]

I would spray the area and let it wick in. Seafoam is used to soften carbon in engines or as a fuel treatment. I don't think it would do anything for your rust, but may very well destroy the finish.

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[The Dumb Gun Collector]

If it makes you feel any better I’ve personally seen captured AK’s we dug up out of the ground run just fine covered in rust and gack.

Sorry if I came off like a dick.

LOL. I was just having fun. I have always noticed this in the receivers of AKs. Sometimes it may actually be grease and gunk, but often it seems like rust (although I can't recall ever seeing pitting). It is also typically difficult to spot in artificial light. It is something easier to notice if full daylight. I also think this is the kind of thing that forms inside guns when cold guns are brought into warm buildings and condensation forms, often undetected.Just the random things that worry me.

[SteyrAUG]

Maybe just blast it in between the parts? I was watching an interesting video and he recommended something called “sea foam.” But I’m not sure if it is safe for normal finishes

Pop the top cover and bolt and spray the areas you can't directly access with Break Free (CLP), within 12 hours wipe off any run off on the outside of the receiver. Anything I know I'm not gonna be shooting in the next 6 months, I put them away a little bit wet. They don't need to be dripping but shiny layer of CLP is just fine.

You don't need expensive whiz bang products and grease won't penetrate into tight areas like you describe. If you also need to do corrective maintenance, I'd pop the top cover and bolt and let them sit on a bench with a thin pool of break free on the most problem areas over night.

[Coal Dragger]

LOL. I was just having fun. I have always noticed this in the receivers of AKs. Sometimes it may actually be grease and gunk, but often it seems like rust (although I can't recall ever seeing pitting). It is also typically difficult to spot in artificial light. It is something easier to notice if full daylight. I also think this is the kind of thing that forms inside guns when cold guns are brought into warm buildings and condensation forms, often undetected.Just the random things that worry me.

If it might be grease and gunk boiling the parts might just lift it off.

[Black_Sheep]

I’ve been using a product called Krown KL73 rust inhibitor, it’s a commercial grade penetrating lubricant. Spray it on and let it sit for awhile before wiping off the excess, because it’s solvent free it doesn’t dry out like WD40. I use it on a bare steel workbench in my garage a couple times a year, it remains rust free despite our super humid weather.

[T2C]

It might be rust and it might not be. Sometimes storage grease will seep out from between two parts and have the appearance of rust. Gun bluing is a rusting process and sometimes you will see a little rust seep out from between two blued pieces.

Wipe down the area and apply the oil of your choice. Tilt the weapon so that the oil will seep in between parts that you cannot separate for cleaning. After 20 minutes or so, wipe off the excess oil that did not work it's way between the two pieces of metal.

If you use a lot of oil to lubricate a weapon with a wood stock, gravity is your friend. Store the weapon so that oil gravitates away from the wood.

[GH41]

Spray with liberally Brake-free CLP. Use compressed air to force it between the affected surfaces. Rinse and repeat a couple of times.

[jsbhike]

I would spray the area and let it wick in. Seafoam is used to soften carbon in engines or as a fuel treatment. I don't think it would do anything for your rust, but may very well destroy the finish.

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I wondered about that too, but they make stuff other than the fuel additive.

https://seafoamworks.com/product/dee...netrating-oil/

[SeriousStudent]

I would say just keep doing what you are doing - sell them to me.

But if you insist on retaining possession, I would try Ballistol as others recommend.

[T2C]

I've been using Ballistol on black powder firearms for quite a while. It is a good metal and leather cleaner and protectant if you clean and apply it frequently. For long term storage Ballistol is not my first pick. Any time I have applied Ballistol and left a muzzle loader untouched for a few months, I wound up with rust in the bore.

Any time I want oil to go into a hard to reach place, I have found that gravity is my friend. Any time a hard to reach place is crusted with dirt, a good penetrating oil, such as Kroil, would work it's way into areas I could not reach.